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ungh........... today was my first problem with the sub...........................

 

lost my power steering, but i was low on gas so i thought, eh..........i pull into a gas station and the damn belt had fallen off..........strange.......

 

i get home with a new belt that my dad brought over, we got it on (not too tough thanks to no tensioner and just an alternator lever thing)........ i decide to test it out, i got about 2 miles down and it happened again. pulled into the driveway and the bolt holding the harmonic balancer (which i thought was a made up name when i first heard it) had loosened. the key is still there in the engine , but the pully itself is pretty worn on the inside...........

 

question. how hard is this to replace? seems straight forward, but i'm not sure on how much torque and if i'll have enough room to do it. AND, how often does this happen?

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ungh........... today was my first problem with the sub...........................

 

lost my power steering, but i was low on gas so i thought, eh..........i pull into a gas station and the damn belt had fallen off..........strange.......

 

i get home with a new belt that my dad brought over, we got it on (not too tough thanks to no tensioner and just an alternator lever thing)........ i decide to test it out, i got about 2 miles down and it happened again. pulled into the driveway and the bolt holding the harmonic balancer (which i thought was a made up name when i first heard it) had loosened. the key is still there in the engine , but the pully itself is pretty worn on the inside...........

 

question. how hard is this to replace? seems straight forward, but i'm not sure on how much torque and if i'll have enough room to do it. AND, how often does this happen?

i have a thread divoted to ur issue. I have 6 pages worth. lol.

 

Now its very simple, take off the bolt, take off the pulley, pull off all the belts. THEN buy the new harmonic pulley, and usually u will also need a new key( 5 bucks CDN) harmonic pulley(200CDN) and then i used a pulley holder, its like a belt that goes around the pulley, and then u use a torque wrench and torque it to 100ft-lbs, but me myself i did 140ft-lbs with blue locktite. Subaru Canada said 140ft-lbs but everyone here thinks im dum for doing that. Oh well the pulley is still there. And when u put back on the belts ur going to needs to lossen the little bolt that adjusts the tension on the belts, and the idler then put on ur belts after u have the bolt on nice and tight. Now this pull holder, my dad helped me out here, he holded it from the bottom while i used the torque wrench and tightened the crap out of it. ANd then we put on the new belts we bought. We made the belts not TO TIGHT, and not TO LOOSE. And u should be set to go. Except in my situation i wasnt set to go, my alternator died, doh. But its running great now, been 5,000km i put on the car since last week or so, and no problems, just my dam thermoter is stuck, and the engine wont warm up, no biggie, 15bucks CDN all is well. Hope this helps.

 

Edit: here my thread by the way.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64710

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If the pulley's already loose on the shaft but the crank isn't chewed you may not even need to remove the fans.

This usually happens after the bolt wasn't tightened to the correct torque when replacing the timing belt.

I can send you an 11 y.o. pulley with 80000 miles with some cracks in the rubber and some rust, for the cost of shipping.

The keyway is intact.

I know it won't work if you need it fixed ASAP.

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Hi dj3stripes, that's no fun when the crank pulley bolt loosens like that. Anyway, did you just have the timing belt or anything replaced recently? As avk mentioned that bolt loosens usually because it wasn't retightened properly after being removed. If so it's the shop's responsibility to make it right including buying you a new crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer) and key and installing it.

 

There is a procedure for tightening that bolt, I couldn't find the same procedure for '96, but for '00 (not sure if it's the same for your '95?) it involves clean threads using air gun, apply engine oil to bolt seat and thread, tighten bolt first to 33 ft-lb(f), then tighten to 130.2 ft-lb(f) confirming it turned at least 65 degrees (by looking at the marks on the timing cover). Otherwise the process should be repeated with a new crank pulley bolt.

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we just had this discussion last week. i'd use a new bolt, new pulley and torque it past the spec. i think i'd rather bust the bolt than ruin the crank. one is easier to fix.

 

No! You need to tighten that bolt to 110 ft-lbs. Ignore the FSM on this, it is wrong. People who have tightened that bolt down to 80 ft-lbs have had it come loose later.
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The day before it happened i had it in for an oil change and a tranny fluid change. The wear on the piece looks as if it was done over time, so i can't really storm into the shop and demand repairs............... found one parts store that can order it in a few days................. 289!?!?!? does that sound like the right price!?

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The day before it happened i had it in for an oil change and a tranny fluid change. The wear on the piece looks as if it was done over time, so i can't really storm into the shop and demand repairs............... found one parts store that can order it in a few days................. 289!?!?!? does that sound like the right price!?

 

NOO!!! are u crazy i payed 200 CDN!!!! LOLL needs to be much cheaper.

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If ur used one has a good keyway, its a good pulley. That one on ebay might be ok, but i dont know. I have seen alum ones for that same price, but they seems cheap, like there going to crack, and why is there rubber in bettween the two metals?

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There's a concentric rubber layer between the center "hub" and the "rim" driving the belts. It's designed to suppress torsional vibrations of the crank. If the pulley's old and dirty, the rubber's hard to see, but it's there.

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There's a concentric rubber layer between the center "hub" and the "rim" driving the belts. It's designed to suppress torsional vibrations of the crank. If the pulley's old and dirty, the rubber's hard to see, but it's there.

 

If its not there its a bad thing right? Because the alumium ones on ebay look like there is no rubber.

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More on eBay pulleys: there's one from the same seller advertised for 1999-04 and sold for $27 as a replacement for OE p/n 12305AA242. But that number in fact supercedes what they list for the one sold ar $49, which is 12305AA210.

I have a "242" pulley on a 1995 2.2 l engine. So if the seller's cross reference is accurate, the correct pulley can be had for $27.

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So i got avk's harmonic balancer in today. Boy, was mine destroyed or what!? i didn't realize the key way was to go through the entire pulley! mine (bad one) was gutted out to where only half of the keyway was existant.

 

Me and pops threw it in, as the key in my shaft looked to be fine. Blue locked it, tightened it to about 150ish (it was still turning) and fired up the engine for an initial test. Looks to be holding well. A little bit of a waller in rotation but i'm really not that concerned. After all, i do have another one from ebay coming as soon as paypal clears if need be.

 

Just wanted to throw out a huge thank you for the support. I'm not sure what i can do to contribute to the community, but if something comes up and i think i can help, i'll help as much as i can.

 

:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

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