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Temp runs high in traffic


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24 replies to this topic

#1 zzzasy

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 09:32 AM

Hello, I've been fighting this problem for a little while now. When I'm in traffic and the car is not moving or moving very slow, the temp gauge will raise near the overheating mark. It hasn't overheated, but it will go close to the mark and as soon as I start moving, it will level off to normal. I replaced the thermostat, but it is still doing the same thing. What are your thoughts? Should I throw money at an radiator and how that fixes the problem? BTW, the headgasket doesn't seem to be having a problem because there is no oil in the anti.

zzzasy
'98 outback limited wagon 2.5ltr

#2 BSOD2600

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 09:37 AM

Sure you've removed all the air from the coolant system? I just replaced my thermostat the other day and have had overheating problems while idling for a while, but driving is just fine. Still in the process of slowly removing all the air out of mine. Sure your fans are turning on?

#3 zzzasy

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 09:48 AM

Fans are working fine. I removed the rad top and left it off for about 30 minutes hoping it would burp the air. What is the best way to burp the air? Also, when I'm running the air conditioner, I can tell when the temp gauge has gone up, because the cool air from the air conditioning turns warm. When I move again, the air turns cool immediately.

zzzasy
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#4 porcupine73

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 11:20 AM

I can tell when the temp gauge has gone up, because the cool air from the air conditioning turns warm

That sounds kind of weird, since the condensor is in front of the radiator and if the fans are on I wouldn't think it would make a difference in the A/C temp. Are you sure the fans are on at that time?

#5 Manarius

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 11:30 AM

Yeah, make sure the fans are coming on without the A/C coming on. Second, check to see if there are any "cold spots" in the system. Feel around - is the coolant tube at the top of the engine cold? Might have a minor blockage somewhere. Third, and finally, your water pump may just be tired...unfortunately that's a pretty big deal to replace that so leave it for absolute last.

#6 zzzasy

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 01:33 PM

Thanks, I will double check the fans, but when I flushed the coolant, I let it run to operating temp and the fans came on. The fans kick on immediately when the air conditioning turned on. I put a lot of stop leak in the rad in the past thinking I had a HG problem, but I didn't. Could the amount of stop leak I used clogged the rad. When I flushed the rad, the water ran thru fine.

zzzasy
'98 outback limited

#7 Virrdog

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 03:08 PM

Thanks, I will double check the fans, but when I flushed the coolant, I let it run to operating temp and the fans came on. The fans kick on immediately when the air conditioning turned on. I put a lot of stop leak in the rad in the past thinking I had a HG problem, but I didn't. Could the amount of stop leak I used clogged the rad. When I flushed the rad, the water ran thru fine.

zzzasy
'98 outback limited

Or worse yet, you could have clogged one of the coolant passages inside of the engine block.

#8 zzzasy

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 03:28 PM

So, what do you think I should do? Buy a new rad or pay for a power flush? I believe I can get a new rad for around the same price of a power flush, but if the water jackets are clogged inside the inside the engine; wouldn't a power flush push it out.

zzzasy

#9 cookie

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 02:42 PM

It is getting about time for a new radiator anyway. If it were my car that is what it would get. On the plus side winter's coming.

#10 nipper

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 04:51 PM

Your raditor is either clogged or the cooling fins have fallen apart. Powerflush is a waist of money and can cause other problems.

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#11 Pillowsplat

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Posted 06 October 2006 - 07:22 AM

I did the same thing. My solution was to buy a new radiator. radiator.com. Someone here said don't waist your time with a flush. I garden hose flushed out the system and put a new thermostat in. I'm not an ace mechanic by any means. This is a hour or 2 job by a pro so that means it will take me twice as long. It did. The shop wanted $460+ for the swap I guess I did it for $184 radiator, + coolant, + thermostat.
You have to deal with 2 ATF hoses, 2 Coolant hoses, 2 fans, 4 bolts, and burping. Sounds easy and it is but I felt it was necessary to try every wrong combination and misguided sequence till I got it right. The result is the temp gauge is now pegged just below the halfway point.
Editorial: Subaru gave us a half cooked design with the head/gasket. Then they gave us glop to fill the cracks. Well guess what it fills the radiator with glop. It boggles my mind that they are still making this engine. That said the car drives great.

#12 zzzasy

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 03:27 PM

Replaced the radiator. Still have the same problem. As a matter of fact, its getting worse. So, I have changed the radiator and thermo. I added a lot of stop leak to system in the past (now I have been educated on Stop Leak, but I believe its a little too late), so I'm beginning to believe that I have clogged some passages in the engine. If this is the case, does that mean the engine is hosed? I'm going to go for a BG flush and hope it breaks down the gunk, if that's what it is. Any suggestions are appreciated. At the rate its running hot now, if I don't find a fix soon, I will end up blowing/cracking this engine also.

zzzasy
'98 OBW

#13 tcspeer

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 03:55 PM

Did you get the system full of coolant after the change? I let mine idle and keep adding it real slow while the heater is on. I dont think you have blocked any passages in the engine, I have used stop leak for years with no problem. I think most of the products will only seal when they become exposed to air.

Replaced the radiator. Still have the same problem. As a matter of fact, its getting worse. So, I have changed the radiator and thermo. I added a lot of stop leak to system in the past (now I have been educated on Stop Leak, but I believe its a little too late), so I'm beginning to believe that I have clogged some passages in the engine. If this is the case, does that mean the engine is hosed? I'm going to go for a BG flush and hope it breaks down the gunk, if that's what it is. Any suggestions are appreciated. At the rate its running hot now, if I don't find a fix soon, I will end up blowing/cracking this engine also.

zzzasy
'98 OBW



#14 zzzasy

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 04:20 PM

Yes, I turned the heater on and added coolant, then burped thru the upper hose. The coolant doesn't appear to be flowing throughout the engine. After driving for awhile, all the coolant ends up in the overflow reservoir. I can feel the top hose and it will be hot; while the lower hose would be cold. I have started adding antifreeze everytime I get in the car to try to keep it from overheating and causing a major problem. I had a compression test done, in which I was told everything was within specs, so he doesn't believe its a headgasket. I hate to keep throwing money at this engine if in the end I'm going to need a new engine anyway.

Also, if I did purchase the recommended reman from Colorado, could I expect to get at least 3 years out of the engine without these kinds of problems? I have had the car three years and every year its the same old
sh--. I like the car and would be willing to invest the $3500 to have a new engine installed, if I knew it would be good for at least three years. But, with my experience with this car, I don't know if I can expect that.
Especially, when the newer cars are failing at around 60,000 miles. The engine in the car now is a used engine I had to buy on the highway because I cracked a block on the other during my X-mas vacation. The engine has been in the car almost a year.
zzzasy
'98 OBW

zzzasy
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#15 tcspeer

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 04:31 PM

If the top hose is hot I would think the water is flowing through the engine, but maybe not. I think you still have air trapped Subaru is the worst engine I have seen about getting the coolant back right after working on any thing to do with the coolant. I dont remember if you said, you put a new themostat in it or not, if you cut the center part out of the themostat and save the outer ring you can try running it without it and see if that will help.

Yes, I turned the heater on and added coolant, then burped thru the upper hose. The coolant doesn't appear to be flowing throughout the engine. After driving for awhile, all the coolant ends up in the overflow reservoir. I can feel the top hose and it will be hot; while the lower hose would be cold. I have started adding antifreeze everytime I get in the car to try to keep it from overheating and causing a major problem. I had a compression test done, in which I was told everything was within specs, so he doesn't believe its a headgasket. I hate to keep throwing money at this engine if in the end I'm going to need a new engine anyway.

Also, if I did purchase the recommended reman from Colorado, could I expect to get at least 3 years out of the engine without these kinds of problems? I have had the car three years and every year its the same old
sh--. I like the car and would be willing to invest the $3500 to have a new engine installed, if I knew it would be good for at least three years. But, with my experience with this car, I don't know if I can expect that.
Especially, when the newer cars are failing at around 60,000 miles. The engine in the car now is a used engine I had to buy on the highway because I cracked a block on the other during my X-mas vacation. The engine has been in the car almost a year.
zzzasy
'98 OBW

zzzasy
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#16 Virrdog

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 01:57 PM

if you cut the center part out of the themostat and save the outer ring you can try running it without it and see if that will help.

I would try this next. See if the extra flow makes a difference. If not, you can be pretty sure your water pump or coolant passages are toast.

#17 zzzasy

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:19 PM

I thought if the water pump went, you would see water running from the weep hole. According to your post, the pump can be bad without any sign of running water. I will do the thermo trick at my first opportunity to see what happens.

thanks,

zzzasy
'98 OBW

#18 Skip

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:52 PM

It has been said to properly
burp the system
the front of the vehicle should be raised,
such as on car ramps or raised high with a floor jack
and jack stands.


#19 porcupine73

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:42 PM

If you're considering a rebuilt engine I hear in other posts the CCR I think it is top notch.

The only time you'll see coolant out the water pump weep hole is if the bearing is loose/worn. All the fins could break off the impeller for some reason and there might not be anything coming out the weep hole. The water pump is a pretty simple device.

#20 nipper

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:59 PM

Hello, I've been fighting this problem for a little while now. When I'm in traffic and the car is not moving or moving very slow, the temp gauge will raise near the overheating mark. It hasn't overheated, but it will go close to the mark and as soon as I start moving, it will level off to normal. I replaced the thermostat, but it is still doing the same thing. What are your thoughts? Should I throw money at an radiator and how that fixes the problem? BTW, the headgasket doesn't seem to be having a problem because there is no oil in the anti.

zzzasy
'98 outback limited wagon 2.5ltr



How old is the waterpump? The waterpump impeller can be worn.

nipper

#21 johnceggleston

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 07:24 PM

How old is the waterpump? The waterpump impeller can be worn.

nipper


someone commented somewhere that using tap water , especially tap water that's hard , can cause the impeller to rot away. the same thing happened to my 90 nissan pick up. never leaked.

#22 nipper

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 07:43 PM

someone commented somewhere that using tap water , especially tap water that's hard , can cause the impeller to rot away. the same thing happened to my 90 nissan pick up. never leaked.


Well thats one of the reasons, but water can erode an impeller, as it is abrasive, with dionized (labratory) water worse then deminerilized water.

We sometimes assume that the waterpumps have been changed with the timing belt, but thats not always the case.

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#23 zzzasy

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 09:24 AM

The water pump is 2 years old at the most and for about 5 months of those years the car sat without being driven or moved because of burnt cats. I believe I only paid like $30+ dollars for the pump so changing it again is not a costly venture; its just I have to do it outside in front of the house and the weather is getting to the point where that's not looking good. Since I am throwing money at the problem, which way would you throw it (BG Rad Flush or new water pump). I have been talking to a guy about the BG Rad Flush thinking the problem is clogged passages and that the pressure flush may do some good.

zzzasy
'98 OBW

#24 Virrdog

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 12:15 PM

Since I am throwing money at the problem, which way would you throw it (BG Rad Flush or new water pump). I have been talking to a guy about the BG Rad Flush thinking the problem is clogged passages and that the pressure flush may do some good.

Do the thermostat trick, see the results and then consider your next step. That will tell you more conclusively which way to throw the money. ;)

#25 zzzasy

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 03:47 PM

Thank you, hopefully, I'll get a chance to do the thermo trick this weekend. If that works, does that mean that the thermo was bad?

zzzasy
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