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long term engine storage tips?


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15 replies to this topic

#1 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 30 October 2006 - 09:12 PM

I recently pulled an SPFI engine from an 87 wagon.

Before I pulled it, I checked the compression (140, 140, 140, 115 :mad:)

I put a couple splashes of oil in each cylinder and cranked it around a couple times by hand. I've drained all the coolant from it (both heads included). I've put duct tape over all openings from inside to outside (well, not the exhaust, yet). Plugs have anti-seize and are threaded finger tight. It will be stored in an outside shed, no heat, no insulation, etc.

So, any other ways to ensure the engine stays in good shape while being stored for who knows how long? Only other engine I've gotten after being stored had badly rusted/pitted cylinder walls, and I'd like to avoid that.

Thanks,
-Dave

#2 ShawnW

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Posted 30 October 2006 - 09:20 PM

The 115 indicates it isnt in good shape. Im not sure I would store an engine that doesnt have perfect compression and even then I think I would find a car that needs said engine and install it and get rid of the engine with a car that needs one.

Engines don't do well when stored for periods of time. They rust internally, the FI system doesnt like it, etc.

#3 bgd73

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 07:41 AM

I recently pulled an SPFI engine from an 87 wagon.

Before I pulled it, I checked the compression (140, 140, 140, 115 :mad:)

I put a couple splashes of oil in each cylinder and cranked it around a couple times by hand. I've drained all the coolant from it (both heads included). I've put duct tape over all openings from inside to outside (well, not the exhaust, yet). Plugs have anti-seize and are threaded finger tight. It will be stored in an outside shed, no heat, no insulation, etc.

So, any other ways to ensure the engine stays in good shape while being stored for who knows how long? Only other engine I've gotten after being stored had badly rusted/pitted cylinder walls, and I'd like to avoid that.

Thanks,
-Dave


This question is lurking in my head as I just pulled an engine. With intake manifold off the intake or exhaust valves will never be stuck on a compression stroke. Squirt anything lube in there once and awhile and cover them back up.It will get at least part of the cylinders or if you drench it with a lot of oil, it will lurk in there for awhile. I also left castrol high mileage in the base- it is either oil that gets old and stubborn or will help maintain an anti-siezing viscosity.Keep it in a dry place and keep air out with a bag or plastic pin with cover, etc.helps stop anything that even had a hint of oil and rusts from rusting. Being aluminum mostly, the rust would be slower to get the old sube engine stuck. If a 40 year old gm motor can do it, a sube can better.:) A plastic bin has the benefit of keeping everything covered with a layer of oil, externally.

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 10:03 AM

OTOH, I had an EA81 in my garage for a couple years, and it was in another board member's shed for a few years before that. I replaced the oil pump and seals, changed the oil and filter, squirted a bit of oil in the cylinders and fired it up. 200 - 220 psi in every cylinder :slobber:. Maybe I'm just lucky, but it runs awesome, and no special steps were taken - it still had really old, black oil in it from an 83 coupe.

If it were me, being the EA82 is easier to work on with it out of a car, I would pull the heads, mill them and do a simple valve grind, replace the head gaskets (Fel-Pro's are $15 each), cam tower seals and o-rings, intake manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, oil pump seals, and the mains. THEN store it completely dry. Get one of those rolls of plastic "shrink wrap" used for moving furniture and encase the thing in it to keep bugs and moisture out. Should be fine for a long time.

GD

#5 Hondasucks

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 12:40 AM

Go get a can of Marine Fogging Oil, spray a bunch down the intake, as well as a shot or two in each spark plug hole, if you can, take the carb off and drain all the fuel from it, so the fuel doesn't break down in the carb and clog it up. Taping off the intake and exhaust ports is a good idea, storing it in a shed shouldn't be that big of a deal...

#6 grossgary

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 10:22 AM

i'd diagnose that compression loss before spending much time on it. if it's heads/head gasket related then no big deal. if it's rings....i don't know that it's worth worrying so much about it's going to need major work anyway.

#7 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 12:06 PM

thanks for all the replies.

I know the engine isn't in the best shape, buuuut it (seemed to) run well when it was pulled. It would also work in a pinch if it had to.

maybe this winter I'll pull the heads off and try to see why there's low compression on that side.

hmm, marine fogging oil... sounds interesting :brow: I'll have to see if any local place carries it.

thanks again,
-Dave

#8 MilesFox

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 04:41 PM

i read some stuff about filling the crank case and cylinders with diesel fuel. also if you take off the timing belts you can center the cams at 12:00 so all the valves are closed

now and again with the belts off you can spin the oil pump cog with an impact or drill to pressurize and circulate the oiling system

#9 kingbobdole

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Posted 03 November 2006 - 01:45 AM

Two of my 3 were sitting for 2 or more years before I bought them... full of fluids and all... I never did anything to them, both started right up and run great:banana:

#10 jeffast

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Posted 03 November 2006 - 02:20 AM

the death wedge sat for about a year before i bought it and no problems, well that engine blew but i'm pretty sure that it was user error long story

#11 scrap487

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Posted 03 November 2006 - 12:13 PM

i've heard brakefluid is a great rust inhibitor and also helps unseize engines....

#12 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 November 2006 - 01:11 PM

i've heard brakefluid is a great rust inhibitor and also helps unseize engines....


Um - BAD idea. Brake fluid destroy's rubber - as in the rubber in your oil pump seals, and the cam tower o-rings to name a few. Brake fluid is nasty, caustic stuff, and shouldn't really be handled without gloves. The reason it feels so disgusting on your hands is because it actually absorbs into the pores of your skin and can poison you if you handle too much of it.

GD

#13 Hondasucks

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Posted 03 November 2006 - 02:48 PM

Um - BAD idea. Brake fluid destroy's rubber - as in the rubber in your oil pump seals, and the cam tower o-rings to name a few. Brake fluid is nasty, caustic stuff, and shouldn't really be handled without gloves. The reason it feels so disgusting on your hands is because it actually absorbs into the pores of your skin and can poison you if you handle too much of it.

GD


Good poit, GD, also it (like diesel fuel) will absorb water, which isn't a good thing to have inside a motor. Also, diesel will eat some types of rubber as well.

#14 daeron

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 01:28 AM

I like to go get the biggest rubbermaid/sterilite plastic tub i can find, drop the longblock straight in, and fill that mother up with rotella!

seriously. EVERY engine i have EVER stored has gone through that procedure. :banana:

#15 jeffast

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 01:59 AM

ok that's a little unorthadox, but i can see where it would work, just curiouse have youy ever run one of these engine after you stored it?

#16 daeron

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 05:30 AM

allright. you got me. I have never stored an engine. :dead:




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