ShakotanBoogie Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I'm looking to install an oil pressure gauge in my '95 Legacy. What all does this involve? Right now the engine is out of the car - do I have to install a sending unit, or can I use the stock sender? Beyond that what do I need to do other than basic wiring and such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 i tried useing the stock pressure sending unit and as soon as i started the engine,guage pegged to the red. i think the stock unit sends a signal saying there's good pressure and doesn't send real pressure levels.. what ever guage you get should have a sending unit.they normally have two posts (1 for stock wire an 1 for guage) hope this helps.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 On my suby's anyway the stock pressure device is a pressure switch not a pressure indicator. You can tee in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into the same block port as the original pressure switch (located sort of underneath the alternator). The oil pressure switch port on Suby's is something like 1/8" british standard pipe taper (BSPT) which is close to national pipe taper (NPT) but off by a thread per inch and the thread angle is different, so what I"m trying to say is buy or get a set of adapters because the aftermarket unit will almost certainly be 1/8"npt. Then you just need a 1/8"npt tee and maybe a couple 1/8"npt street tees depending on how you do it. Autometer makes nice gauges and you can get them a summit for not much more than those sunpro's at the auto parts places. I like electrical gauge for oil pressure because if you have mechanical and that little vinyl breaks in the engine compartment, well you get the picture. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 the stock sender is just a switch. I actually have a JDM factory oil pressure gauge, but cant fin out where to screw it in. Can somone show me the oil galley plugs and thier location? Last time i put in a gague on a car, i just teed off the oil press switch port and put them on either side of the T. If space is tight you can bend some SS line and locate them someplace else on the engine. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 there are also 'sandwich adapters' ('plates') which screw on the filter mounting area(or held on by the filter? not sure). They often have a port for oil temp and ports for an oil cooler. I think pressure also. fyi Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 there are also 'sandwich adapters' ('plates') which screw on the filter mounting area(or held on by the filter? not sure). They often have a port for oil temp and ports for an oil cooler. I think pressure also. fyi Carl I have one and i dont like it. The oil and oil temp sending units are oe, and the pressure sender (which is huge), from the JDM wire length tells me it mounts on an oil galley some place on top of the engine. The temp sensor looks like it mounts an something adapter like. I bought one off ebay, and oddly the fitting for the oil filter does not match OE. It has me very annoyed. Thats why I would rather use galley plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 I have one and i dont like it. The oil and oil temp sending units are oe, and the pressure sender (which is huge), from the JDM wire length tells me it mounts on an oil galley some place on top of the engine. The temp sensor looks like it mounts an something adapter like. I bought one off ebay, and oddly the fitting for the oil filter does not match OE. It has me very annoyed. Thats why I would rather use galley plugs I understand. I THINK I've seen a photo showing the loaction of the gallery plug(s). A TEE should work OK as well I guess. I THINK also, there's an OEM adapter for the gallery plug. maybe it has instructions, location marked? Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 just ran across this - y'all probably already spotted it though. An email to jamie might get a copy of any instructions included scanned and sent back to you - I dunno https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=961 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmickelct Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Any idea of going through the above is the one of the few ways of actually registering oil pressure (and assessing status of oil pump)? Getting pretty loud valve chatter and suspect that the pump may not have seated properbly during TB job. Would very much like to have an idea before tearing it all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Any idea of going through the above is the one of the few ways of actually registering oil pressure (and assessing status of oil pump)? Getting pretty loud valve chatter and suspect that the pump may not have seated properbly during TB job. Would very much like to have an idea before tearing it all out. Actually the resistance to flow is what causes the pressure, the pump is just the medium to move the oil. The Main and connecting rod bearings play a biigger part in oil pressure then the pump does, unless the pump clearances are bad or your leaking al over the ground. If the bearings have too big a clearance, you will have low or no oil pressure. Did you reseal the pump during the TB change. You cantake the pressure off of any galley plug. Quick and dirty check would be a mechanical gauge threaded ito the oil pressure switch. I dont ever recall anyone having a problem with the pump reseating itself. It is possible that the pump is tired if the car has over 150,000 miles, but usually i tell people to replace the pump on the 2.2 and 2.5 as they get near 200,000 miles for insurance. Putting the gauge on almost any oil galley will give you the same pressure as at the pump, the only difference wil be a slight lag for the gauge to presurize. What brand of filter are you using? nipper nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmickelct Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Yes I did reseal the oil pump during the TB change (the grey goop stuff) checked the phillips crews (1 was loose) and locktited and put in a new O ring (and obviously crank seal) (didnt open up the back or check clearance). I did experience the trickiness of trying to get the O ring to stay in place while I fitted the pump over the crank shaft... first couple of times it fell loose, "tacked" it in place with a dab of the sealant, so was reasonably sure that it was in place when I bolted it, but, without being able to see it, who knows... The MMO seems to be doing something (3rd day)... clacking duration after warm up is lessening, but on start up its frightening loud.. its clearly coming from the front passenger (right?) side valves... (big screwdriver isolates clearly, even from the rear valves..) I guess the big question I've almost been afraid to ask is, if its not the valves, can the cams or cam bearings (or ? crank? or connecting rods, others?) go and produce this kind of knocking? Guessing that that would be a much differrent exercise than just reseating or replacing the oil pump. (will definately replace if I go in, even though the cars only got ~122k miles... have to assume original pump) Have been having the oil done at a number of places, been sticking pretty close to 3k intervals (theres a Fram on there now). Also the bottom of the oil pump is bone dry and clean as a whistle, so if its leaking, it must be internal... (which kind of kills my weak oil pump theory...). Can the pump fail internally without leaking? A mechanic today also suggested that there are some kind of sleeves in the valve passages that can somehow contact the valve, causing it to knock.. Any thoughts about a SeaFoam fix? (or others?... running out of speculative options!...) Thanks, John BTW.... the computer reset also seems to have eliminated my torque bind!!! (unless its just the weirdest coincidence...) Actually the resistance to flow is what causes the pressure, the pump is just the medium to move the oil. The Main and connecting rod bearings play a biigger part in oil pressure then the pump does, unless the pump clearances are bad or your leaking al over the ground. If the bearings have too big a clearance, you will have low or no oil pressure. Did you reseal the pump during the TB change. You cantake the pressure off of any galley plug. Quick and dirty check would be a mechanical gauge threaded ito the oil pressure switch. I dont ever recall anyone having a problem with the pump reseating itself. It is possible that the pump is tired if the car has over 150,000 miles, but usually i tell people to replace the pump on the 2.2 and 2.5 as they get near 200,000 miles for insurance. Putting the gauge on almost any oil galley will give you the same pressure as at the pump, the only difference wil be a slight lag for the gauge to presurize. What brand of filter are you using? nipper nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hate to bring up an old thread but trying to find a oil pressure sender I can use in an EA to EJ swap. Looking for a pressure sender and not just a dummy light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hate to bring up an old thread but trying to find a oil pressure sender I can use in an EA to EJ swap. Looking for a pressure sender and not just a dummy light. You use the one from the EA. You adapt it down with some -3 braided stainless line, flare fittings, etc. It's not difficult. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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