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suspension woes and solenoid valves


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5 replies to this topic

#1 billcow

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 05:33 AM

I have two questions regarding my '95 Impreza L (1.8l 5mt)...

Firstly, I installed new struts and springs last month and since then, two of the strut mount nuts have backed off. The left-rear I caught before it was a problem, but the right-front, well, i'll just say i'm glad that the threads on the strut look okay. It looks like the problem was a lack of locking nuts (the nuts sent with the struts were non-locking, but the shop guide mentions the use of self-locking nuts). The problem is, I can't find anywhere to buy a nut in that size - it seems to be an M14, but every store I've been to only has M6-10, M12, and M16 (and most only had locking nuts in M10 and M12). I've got to get this fixed by friday or I'll be out of work another weekend (delivery). Where the @&%# can I find these nuts?

The second, less pressing issue is that of what the subaru dealership called a "solenoid valve." the couldn't tell me what it did (the shop guide, which only covers the EJ22, EJ22T, and EJ25, mentions two solenoid valves, both of which can be clearly identified as something else on my engine) but only that it cost roughly $65 and was not kept in stock. It's bolted onto the intake above the #3 cylinder, has a plastic, threaded plug with a spring around it at the top (the spring appears to have no function, as neither the plug nor the lower seat of the spring moves) and two small hoses (roughly 3/8"), one running to the intake manifold, the other running to the intake duct between the filter and the TB. There is a wiring harness with three wires but I can't see the wires themselves without cutting the insulator wrapped around them. The engine does not seem to run any differently when the connector is unplugged, or when either hose is disconnected (as long as it is plugged off to avoid a vacuum leak), and seems to serve no purpose other than a holster for a hose useful to suck Seafoam through. And in my case, to allow a very small amount of unfiltered air to enter my intake duct.

#2 offroadsubaruguy

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 06:56 AM

if you still have the locking nuts form the old struts, just put em on, if not try some lock tite... as far as the solenoid, if the dealer wont tell you what it does, dont replace it... sounds like a scam to me.... dont ever replace anything without knowing what it does first.....

#3 porcupine73

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 08:00 AM

I've had good results finding the 10.8 or whatever it is grade of self locking nuts at Sears Hardware and especially at Ace Hardware, I couldn't believe the wide selection of stuff Ace has. They also have the flange bolts which are really handy and kind of hard to find at Home Despot and stuff plus they're cheaper on these items it seems.

Some loctite can really handy too, in fact I think I saw on the loctite web site or the packaging that self locking nuts can be reused if the proper loctite is used.

I don't know what that solenoid valve is, it's not the PCV valve or IAC valve is it?

#4 billcow

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Posted 17 November 2006 - 01:35 AM

Did I mention that it's made mostly of plastic? The problem with it is that the bit where the hose to the intake duct attaches broke off, so instead of sucking in clean air (I think....) it's sucking in dirty, hot engine compartment air. Also, when the hose broke off I noticed that the wiring connector was disconnected. I don't know how that (or the disconnected hose) affected engine performance or not because I noticed both when I was changing the PCV valve (which helped performance quite a bit).

As for the nut, I threw out the old ones because the "instructions" that came with the struts (a one-page diagram with five or six steps of written notes) stressed how important it was that I use new nuts (supplied for my convenience). How ironic that the nuts they gave me weren't self locking and therefore responsible for my problems. Anyway, I found a local store that had self-locking M14 nuts (paid $10 for a bag of 25, the only way I could get them) but they're too small. I never should have listened to the guy at Autozone who said the nut I brought was an M14 - even if nobody else disagreed with that guess. So now I have to figure out what size I really need. I don't have the slightest clue where to start, seeing as I've exhausted every store in town for clues. Anyone know what I'm looking for?

#5 billcow

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:00 PM

It turns out the nut is a M14 fine-pitch (1.50) thread. Nobody seems to sell nuts that size. NAPA's measurement scale has a thread that size, but they don't sell the nuts, and the place they sent me (Fastenal) to told me to see if NAPA had them.

I did a search on google, but all I could find in M14-1.50 were lugnuts. What the *%$%#&* can I do?!? I'm out of work until I can get my car fixed, and if it takes too much longer I'll be too broke to even buy a nut.

#6 porcupine73

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 08:28 PM

Hm, a few ideas: order from a local dealer, even if they charge you list at most it'll be a couple bucks per nut. That is weird, I even checked mcmaster which usually has just about everything, but in the two styles I believe those nuts to be, either flange hex or serrated hex, they only go up to M10 or skip M14. They have them in that size as a nylon insert locknut, part number 90576A147 (Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut M14 Size, 1.5mm Special Pitch, 22mm W, 14mm H)

mcmaster calls these kinds of nuts (locknuts) 'distorted-thread': Uniquely shaped threads on these all-metal, one-piece nuts provide a vibration-resistant friction fit, so the nut stays put. Nuts are not reusable.




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