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Front end Shimmy - Steering Rack
Posted 20 December 2006 - 10:21 PM
Posted 20 December 2006 - 11:38 PM
Posted 21 December 2006 - 04:10 AM
Shimmy happens around 55-60 MPH, plus I'm wearing out PS tire. Tie-rods, ball-joints are new, can find no play in control arm, or radius rod bushing.
Had Son move steering wheel while I checked things out underneath. Found play in PS inner tie-rod, not a lot, but it's there. Has to be cause of shimmy.
Waiting on a couple parts to arrive, then I'll be swapping in another rack. Inner tie-rods are available for replacement, but I have never done one, so can't say how easy/hard that is to do.
Posted 21 December 2006 - 04:41 AM
Has to wait till the XT6 is on the road..then Bucky is getting retired for a few months and getting all this finally fixed
Posted 21 December 2006 - 10:14 AM
Posted 22 December 2006 - 07:45 AM
I have been chasing a front end shimmy for a while now in my 86 brat. The ball joints, wheel bearings, and tierods are tight when you shake the wheels down. Axles are also relatively new. The shimmy happens between 40-50 miles per hour not above not below. Sounds like a tire balance issue to me, but tires are balanced, i switched the fronts to rear and it made no difference. When shaking the tires side to side i hear a clunking noise in the rack and pinion. Could a worn rack and pinion cause a front end vibration that is speed specific it like this? If im going around a sharp turn at speed it doesn't shake while im in the turn, further pointing me to the steering gear. The brat is lifted and runs toyota rims and 28 inch tires. Thanks
Clunks aren`t good.
Worn front end components won`t cause a vibration but they can amplifly an existing one greatly.
My wagon has a clunky rack too,but,I haven`t correlated that w/a speed specific vibration.In my case,I narrowed it down to worn rack bushings.Seemed like a worn inner tie-rod until I checked more closely.According to the FSM they aren`t replacable.You need to remove the boots to check how much slop the rack has in the bushings.Spec is 5mm,I think.
In my experience,some larger size tires will go out of balance long before the tread wears out.
Or if it has been sitting on the tires in one place for too long the tires can become flatspotted.
Posted 22 December 2006 - 06:37 PM
Posted 22 December 2006 - 06:49 PM
Tires should be fine when it comes to balancing, swapping the tires from front to back does not change the vibration. Its not a brake pulsation. Stepping on the brake will actually make it go away, but that could jsut be becasue the speed lowers. I was intiatlly thinkin it was a wheel bearing issue because of the braking making it go away, but the wheel bearings are not loose, and last time i had the axle out on that side the wheel bearings had no "rough" or hesitation spots when turniong them. Its got me stumped, i may just have to try out another rack. Thanks for all the replies.
Take a straight edge to the rotors and check them for flatness. I doubt its the rack as this is not a rack failure mode. Check the universal joiint in the steering column (again not a typical mode of failure). My car pulses in the front end from time to time (not always) and ive been told its the rotors by people on here. I havent checked them yet, but at 200,000 miles on them i am going to replace them with the next brake job.
Posted 22 December 2006 - 08:34 PM
Posted 22 December 2006 - 09:03 PM
Rotors are fine, if they were out of round im pretty sure it would pulsate when braking. The universal joint is a very good idea, i will check that tomorrow, thanks for the suggestion.
AHHA i dont know why ididnt suggest it. Inspect the universal joints in the driveshaft and the center bearing. They can cause shimmy at a specific speed. I had that problem, it was the joints.
Posted 23 December 2006 - 05:19 AM
Also, the how to keep your subaru alive book (HTKYSA) has a good section on isolating steering/suspension issues like wheel shimmies.. it may help to read it, but you may already know all it hass to teach. just a thought.
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