$10 per spark plug????

[mnwolftrack]

Hello,

 

I wanted to do a basic tuneup on our recently aquired '98 OBW 2.5L and wanted to start with plugs and wires. I got aftermarket wires, but skipped getting plugs for now. The parts store wanted $10 per plug for "laser" platinum OEM style (I think the p/n was PFR5B-11)! Single platinum plugs were under $2 each. Not even Bosch +4's cost as much as the "stock" plug. Did I just happen to find a parts store who thinks their plugs are made of solid gold? I've been working on cars (toyota mainly) for 15 years, but never ever saw a plug costing $10 (not even on Land Rovers).

[mnwolftrack]

After doing some searching, it appears many people recommend sticking with this expensive plug since it is designed to last longer than a standard copper plug and the plugs are a bit difficult to change (can't be as hard as other vehicleds I've done!). Other people seem to recommend the v-grooves or other NGK's, but I think I will just bite the bullet and get the OEM lasers. I always use NGK's on my Toyota's, and it appears that NGK is the way to go with subi's too. Bosch +4's suck! I know that much. I tried them in a '99 land rover that had otherwise been driving just fine, and immediately after the +4's it started spewing engine misfire OBDII codes and ran so badly it couldn't get out of it's own way.

 

So, I guess I answered my own question!

[fnlyfnd]

you should stick with genuine subaru wires.

 

I say do more searching. I thought a lot of people like the copper ngks, I use them in my 2.2....I did this after searching, but that was a year ago. I don't remember anything about lasers

[nickb21]

I currently have the NGK v-groove's (copper) in my OBW, ran NGK's g-power's (platinum) previously. Both seem about the same. I ran the g-powers about 40, 45k or so and they were in very good shape when i pulled them.

 

G-powers were cheap, maybe 4 bucks a plug. Might be worth a look as an alternative to the lasers. I picked them up at NAPA.

[porcupine73]

Yah I'd stick with NGK for the Suby's. I've run a couple types including the iridium and they work great. Even the iridiums were only like $5 or $6 each I think.

[mnwolftrack]

Well, I ended up buying the OEM laser platinum plugs. I had bought aftermarket wires, but I opted to return them and bought OEM wires at the dealer. The boots are a little too fancy to hope an aftermarket brand got it right.

 

Spark plug wire removal and replacement was a lot easier than I was expecting. I've worked on much more difficult engines than this. I don't know why anyone would want to mess with trying to take the plugs and wires out from up top in the engine bay. The plugs and wires were pretty well in the wide open from below (and I didn't even jack the car up or put it on ramps, but I could have if I felt like it). While it's still a bit cramped to get my hand in the space between the inner fender and valve cover, it was a lot better than trying to snake my way through engine parts, wiring, etc.... I put the wires in from the bottom too. I tried to dangle them down into position from above, but the large boot was binding in the small amount of space. The wires went in much easier from below.

 

The worst part of the whole job was trying to get my stupid socket wrench from disconnecting from the 3" extension, or the extension from the socket. I used a standard spark plug socket with rubber insert, 3" extension for a 3/8" drive rachet, and a 3/8" rachet. I tried using a swivel joint for a little extra length, but it made it too awkward to get good leverage. As most of you are probably already aware, it's easiest to put the socket in the spark plug hole first, then put the 3" extension in there (and spin it around until it engages with the socket, then keep spinning and pushing in until the socket engages the plug), then put the rachet on. For removal, remove the rachet from the extension, then remove the extension from the socket, then pull the socket out with the plug in it (the rubber socket insert is most helpful for this part).

 

The plugs were nice looking, no evidence of oil leakage (knock on wood). The plugs were OEM style NGK's, so with 131k I don't know if they are original or not (but probably). There was some funny green corrosion on one of the ignition pack terminals (#2), so I cleaned that off with a wire brush.

[SuBrat84]

I don't know about the OBW.. but on my old 98 GT there were access holes in the fenders.. these little rubber inserts you pop out.. and then put your 6-8" extension (i believe) through there, and attach it onto the socket.. then you get good leverage from the fender well area. Although it involves removing the plastic fender wells, it is worth it IMO. (I think the SVX was like that as well... having those extra cylinders in there made it a bit more challenging!)

[idosubaru]

Well, I ended up buying the OEM laser platinum plugs. I had bought aftermarket wires, but I opted to return them and bought OEM wires at the dealer. The boots are a little too fancy to hope an aftermarket brand got it right.

you made a very, very good decision here. aftermarket cause lots of problems on all EJ series engines.

[xoomer]

My spark plugs are Denso Iridiums... they are 13 a piece, and yes the new bosch fours are 9.99

[ShawnW]

Yes. The PFR# is a Denso plug and is OEM. Excellent tip going thru the fenders.

[montana105]

As I'm fairly new to the Sub family,I just need to ask if this space problem is only related to the 2.5 or what? My 2.2 in my 93 Wagon is very simple to change plugs and wires on,it was definitely harder on my mom's Caddy.

John

[Setright]

The EJ25 they're talking about has the plugs horizontal, pointing straight out at the frame rails.

 

EJ22 is easy, since the plugs point upward :cool:

[montana105]

Ok thanks for the insight.

[cookie]

also the later 2.5 phase 2 is pretty easy.

[mnwolftrack]

While I didn't specifically look for plugs in the fenderwells, I don't recall seeing any either. The space is tight, and I think my hands would have felt them. Would someone have to remove the tires to access these plugs?

 

It was easy enough for me just to go from underneath the car to remove the plugs, that I didn't even put it up on ramps. That turned it into one of the easier spark plug jobs I've done. The only difficulty I personally had was getting my sockets/extensions/rachet to seperate on command.