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How to change front wheel stud on 97 Outback?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 baboonia

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 09:07 PM

I have a 97 Outback with ABS. One of my front wheel studs is stripped.

What do I have to remove in order to replace the stud? (other than remove the wheel)

#2 NoahDL88

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Posted 27 December 2006 - 09:34 PM

I don't recall if the hub seperates from the knuckle, but it should, and if Subaru sticks with its general sizeing pattern its probably 3 or 4 14mm bolts holding it on. you may not have to seperate the hub from the knuckle to get the stud out, but if you do thats how you do it. You'll also probably have to pull the axle, 32mm. try it in every orientation, there might be a cutout or something to ease removal without seperating everything else, Subaru is usually good like that.

Anyway, to get it out, just bash on it.

To get the new one in, just put the new stud in, and stack up a fair bit of washers, and torque on the the lug nut with an impact gun. What? no gun? I work at Marysville ford and could impact it on if you bring in just the hub and the new stud, Ask for Noah. If its just the stud and hub i can run it in free, if you bring the whole car i'd have to go through official channels which means money from you.


You should be able to use a good half inch breaker bar but you'll have to keep the hub from spinning, so tape up the other studs real good to protect the threads and jam a pry bar in there to keep it from spinning, if you don't protect the threads you'll be replacing 2 more studs.

#3 grossgary

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 12:26 AM

on the older pre-EJ series vehicles you could access the studs enough from the rear to get them out and install new ones. not sure of EJ off the top of my head with no FSM to look at either.

if it's like on the older ones - you just pound the old stud out. spin the hub just right and there's just enough room to get it out without removing anything but the wheel. beat the old one out. slide the new one in from the back side too. hold it in place while you thread a nut on the end that's sticking out. use the tigthening of the nut to fully seat the new stud. it needs to be pressed in, but using a nut will "pull" it through and fully seat it. after that, remove the nut and you're done.

for what it's worth i drove on 2 front studs (out of 5) before...and 3...and 4...all for hundreds of miles. no i don't recommend it, but missing one wouldn't scare me a bit. i actually had 4 out of five shear off on me one time on a highway road trip, all 4 on one wheel. i found out that a brake caliper mounting bolt is the same thread pitch has a lug nut. i remove one and installed it in my hub to hold the wheel on, tightened the remaining one real good to finish the road trip since it was 1 in the morning and got new ones the next day from subaru. fun stuff.

#4 baboonia

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Posted 31 December 2006 - 07:38 PM

I just removed the stud. Not too difficult a job.
Click here for many photos
Procedure below:
1)Loosen wheel nuts.
2)Jack and place car on jack stands or wooden blocks.
3)Remove wheel nuts and wheel.
4)Remove brake caliper (14mm bolts), tie caliper up to strut tower with coat hanger or similar to keep it out of the way.
5)Remove brake caliper holder (tight 17mm bolts!) Remember orientation for proper assembly with brake pads.
6)Remove disk rotor
7)Remove ABS tone ring bolts (5mm Allen head bolts, allen socket would be best & spray penetrating oil first). You can now move the tone ring around to provide clearance to remove the bad stud.
8)Press stud out (I used the Ball Joint Remover from the "Front End Service Kit" loaner tool from Canadian Tire)
see http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=69394 for loaner tool info
9)Wiggle stud and tone ring around to remove. On the right side of the car there is a notch in the hub at around 11 o'clock position. This gave me a bit extra room. On the left side the notch is around the 1 o'clock position.

Installation is the reverse. While everything is apart check your brake pads and clean the tone ring with a wire brush and the ABS sensor with rag/scotchbrite pad.

#5 coroboto

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 02:22 PM

I could not figure out where else to post this.
I am trying to replace the front passenger side wheel bearing. My car is a 90 legacy with the ABS. I can't figure out how to separate the the guard plate and ABS ring without ussing a puller to pull out the front section of the housing that contains the splines that match the drive shaft. I have someone who will press the old bearing out and press the new one in. I have the seals and grease. The guy who will help said he could not help with the ABS ring in place and am finding no help yet.
Any help would be a start ... Thanks...I have the faith in USMB.

#6 wtdash

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Posted 27 February 2010 - 09:20 PM

I just removed the stud. Not too difficult a job.
Click here for many photos


Nicely done write-up and pics. Thanks for the info.

#7 kidashley25

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 08:36 AM

Before you begin, be sure to have the proper replacement wheel stud on hand if possible. If you can't be sure, be sure you have a ride to the auto parts store so that you can take your old stud in for comparison.

_____________________
Dorman Wheel Stud

Edited by kidashley25, 24 May 2010 - 07:23 PM.


#8 NoahDL88

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 09:55 AM

I'm guessing he's done, he asked the question back in 2006 :cool:

#9 johnceggleston

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 12:01 PM

I could not figure out where else to post this.
I am trying to replace the front passenger side wheel bearing. My car is a 90 legacy with the ABS. I can't figure out how to separate the the guard plate and ABS ring without ussing a puller to pull out the front section of the housing that contains the splines that match the drive shaft. I have someone who will press the old bearing out and press the new one in. I have the seals and grease. The guy who will help said he could not help with the ABS ring in place and am finding no help yet.
Any help would be a start ... Thanks...I have the faith in USMB.


the hub is pressed into the bearings and the bearings are pressed into the housing, all together they make up the knuckle. so you will need to "pull" the hub out before the bearing can be replaced.

i'm surprised he could not press it out for you.

#10 NoahDL88

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 06:17 PM

Another friendly reminder, this thread started in 06, if the OP is still waiting on his hub he will probably also need a new battery and fresh gas, probably an oil change and most likely a DeLorean with a Mr Fusion drive.




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