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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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REMOVING the rear 4 oil pan bolts???


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5 replies to this topic

#1 Petersubaru

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 04:27 PM

On my 86 turbo I would like to replace the oil pan gasket.. all the bolts are easy to get too except the rear 4 bolts..I have tried useing a screw driver and 1/4" ratchet, but, I just can't get the angle correct to reach the bolts because of the tight fit and the cross member being wider then on my carbed model..does one have to make the holes larger on the frame access holes to be able to bend the 1/4"extension in there??..or is there a special tool for this job

#2 Gloyale

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 04:40 PM

I've done mine by using a swivel adapter for my socket wrench. You also have to undo the engine mount nuts and loosen the pitch stopper on top. Then you can hoist or jack up the engine just an innch or so to get the angle. You need to have a little extra cleareance anyway to get the pan down over the oil strainer/pickup tube so you might as well. If you enlarge the access holes and manage to get it unbolted the pan will still be stuck unless you lift it off that crossbar just a little

#3 grossgary

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 05:49 PM

oil pans suck...they look simple but getting those bolts off is the easy part. after that you won't have clearance to get the pan out. what you don't see is the oil pan has baffles in it and the sump runs through those baffles, making it impossible to remove unless you unbolt the engine mounts, rear trans mounts (unless you want to try and not do that and strain other components)...and lift the entire engine up to gain clearance for the pan baffles to pull through the sump. this is one PITA job to start and then realize how tricky it really is. (that's how i did it the first time)

#4 Bill90Loyale

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 06:14 PM

I agree with Grossgary above, but I did mine without fiddling with the tranny. What I did is put the front of the car on jackstands, undo the engine mount nuts (2), then use the floor jack to raise the engine about 3 inches. The back pan bolts can then be removed and the pan wrestled out. The biggest hassle for me was when the engine mount studs wouldn't drop back down through the two holes in the crossmembers. Had to call a buddy to use my prybar to pry the engine back over the holes. Drop in. You're set.

A second suggestion: clean the mating surface on the engine block (the mating surface for the pan gasket) to shiny clean. Not a speck of residue. Take the pan itself to your buddy with a wire wheel (or your friend at the auto repair shop) and wire wheel the mating surface on the pan to bright and shiny - not a speck of residue. Use NO SEALANT on the new gasket. Remember the low torque on those pan bolts (7-10 ft lbs is hand tight basically - do not over torque).

I did mine about 5 years ago. Not a drop since.

#5 grossgary

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 08:27 PM

oh yeah, read up on oil pans too, a search might help. they are notorious for leaking soon after installation. if the bolts have ever been "tigthened", you're more prone to have this happen. the bolts if tightened can cause the oil pan mating surface to be concave up at each bolt hole (towards the engine so to speak). they need to be flat, otherwise the gasket won't seal. keep an eye on them when removed.

#6 subiemech85

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:36 PM

PHILIPS screwdriver through the series of holes in cross brace

usually tightening is all you need to do




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