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Lubricants & Additives / Myths & Reality


Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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About Greases... Bgd did Mention something about Synthetic Grease for Axles (Now I Know that`s the Same thing called C. V. Joints :) ) And with my Experience, I determined that for my Subies is Better the Meistersatz Brand (Made out of Pure Graphite) ... but, How about Synth. Greases?

What is your Experience with `em? ... Which Performs Better?

Thanx! :)

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Well... This is a PTFE (Teflon) Based Coolin` System Treatment... :eek: ...What do you Think `bout?

PTFEforCoolinSystem.jpg?t=1168005756[/center]

 

I don't see how teflon is going to do anything for your cooling system. It doesn't even work in motor oil. RMI-25 pretty much does what it says for cooling systems. I also like Auto-RX in my motor oil. Keeps it clean and sludge free. Other than that, I use some Chevron Techron Fuel cleaner every oil change and these steps are probably all overkill for my old wagon lol!

 

-Doug

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To be *honest* I've never figured that you could get anything good out of a can (except oil) for your engine. I've worked in shops where the rule was to install a lot of wynns crap when you did a tune-up (and you got a bonus when you did).

I recently bought a '91 legacy Sport Sedan and for the life of me I could not get it to idle smoothly, I did all the "stuff" (plugs etc) but for whatever reason (injectors, carbon) it would not idle smoothly.

I spoke to an older guy (like myself) where I buy parts and he suggested Kleen Flo TKO (of course he sells this stuff), anyhow to make a long story short I tried some, and it "fixed" me right up, well not "right" up, but within the month.

http://www.kleenflo.com/en/index.htm

MSDS:

http://www.kleenflo.com/en/msds/830-1.pdf

 

If you care to notice this is mainly Kerosene, so I probably should have done the homework first, and just shoved some kerosene in the gas tank (at the least it would have been cheaper).

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

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  • 5 years later...

Nice writeup Jeszek!

 

I would add one note of caution: You recommend frequent oil flush treatments, which is fine, but for someone with a car that has not been properly maintained and has sludge buildup, these treatments can break enough sludge loose to clog the oil pickup and starve the motor for oil. On cars such as these it is better to just change the oil frequently and not perform a flush unless you are prepared to pull the pan off and clean the pickup screen afterwards. Again this is really only for cars with a lot of sludge/carbon buildup.

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Well, I Suggest to use it once per Year, as you can Read in my Writeup:

 

...

 

Part Four: Motor Oil Flush.

 

 

I Suggest to use a Motor Oil Flush Cleaner Detergent at least once per Year. ...

 

 

But Yes, you're Right about to be Careful in Motors with Huge Buildup... I Agree and Also I've seen that Scenario once, in a Toyota "Model F" Bus years ago...

 

Kind Regards.

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I'll mention a 'myth', maybe, I use Techron every couple of years in my cars. usually a tank or 2 before an oil change.

 

Is it a wasted effort?

 

 

many people seem to get good results from SeaFoam, though it seems you need to have a neglected vehicle or a specific problem.

 

Any experience/comments?

 

 

 

Subaru requires use of the coolant conditioner (rebranded Holdt's ?) in a few year/models.

 

This seems to be an additive that works. Should all soobs be using it? Is there a downside to it?

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  • 4 months later...
Don't use additives expecially PTFE teflon. The FTC has sued Slick 50 over its use and advertising. Just use a quality oil and it will have its own additive package.

 

...What ever happened to slick 50 anyway, sort of faded away...

 

They're Selling Slick 50 here, in Latin America; where people usually Ignores all about Oils and Additives, and only buy Things by their Description on the Package or whatever says the Salesmen. :-\

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Last May, a friend of mine who isn't into Mechanics, gave me as Birthday Gift, a Bottle of Slick 50, wich is Expensive, purchased at the Local Napa Store, so I had to pour it onto my "BumbleBeast" and the only thing I noticed is a Slightly increased noise of the Hydraulic Lifters...

 

Please, Note that my EA82 does Not have the T.O.D. sound at all. :mad:

 

So, in my Li'l Country, there is a Marketing War between Two very Different Kinds of Engine Oil additives:

 

The PTFE (Teflon) Based ones Vs the MoS2 (Molybdenum) Based ones.

 

The Teflon Based ones, such like Slick 50, QMi, etc... has been in the Local market for decades, but the Molybdenum Based ones are relatively New.

 

Molybdenum is -Basically Talking- marketed as to be like the Black Graphite Grease used in Constant Velocity Joints, They say it mades a Film of Lubricating Molybdenum that stays in the Engine's inner moving parts and somehow prevents the Wear done when the engine is Started, keeping parts Lubed before the Oil Pump does its Job.

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I've used for Long Years, in very Different cars, Manual Transmissions' Oil with that said MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) Additive with Great Results, it seems to turn an Old & Hard-to-Shift Transmission onto a Brand-New-Like one; I use 80W~90 with MoS2 (Moly) onto my "BumbleBeast" 5MT:

 

 

HPIM9193.jpg

 

 

Also the MoS2 (Moly) is on the Constant Velocity Joints' Grease I use on its Axles.

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I am not sure about using MoS2 in engine oil. I suspect a lot of it winds up clogging the filter. If it is really fine so it goes through, maybe it will be effective, but I have no experience.

 

I do like moly grease for bicycle bearings, the old fashioned loose style. I don't recall ever having cup or cone failure due to fatigue damage in a wheel or bottom bracket lubed with moly grease. Much better than white lithium.

 

My lube and wear prof at university had a story about a jar of a moly additive someone gave him, sort of as a joke. His opinion of these "miracles in a bottle" was uniformly "pure snake oil, I wouldn't put it in a lawnmower". However, one day he ran out of chain lube for his chainsaw, and tried this stuff, pure. He was surprised at how the chainsaw took off. It did seem to be effective in reducing friction under these conditions. I don't believe he ever repeated the experience, though.

 

I found moly powder, sold as a dry lubricant, very effective in door locks. My locks on the house were very tight and hard to turn. One puff of this stuff, and the locks became so easy to turn, it was night and day. Still effective, 12 years later.

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Thank you for your Feedback.

 

I haven't tried Moly Oil Additive in my Subaru... Yet, but I tried the Bottle that is shown in the Picture, in my Wife's "KiaStein" and Basically talking, I have not noticed any Difference in the Engine's sound or behaviour.

 

It has the T8D in-line 4 Cyl DOHC 1.8L non-interference engine with self adjusting 16 valves, so maybe that design is so tight that the only difference I noticed is that the Moly Additive did Blackened the fresh Oil... and it really makes a strong lubricating film that stays firm... even in the Dipstick; but the viscosity isn't affected.

 

I'll report here my Subie's EA82 "BumbleBeast" Weberized engine Behaviour if I pour one of those Moly additives in my Next Oil Change.

 

For now my only concern is related to a Buildup that the Moly additive could do, despite that the German Bottled additive says it will not clog the Oil Passages or Filter, nor do buildup.

 

Kind Regards.

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There may not be an immediate, noticeable difference with these additives. Not like in the chainsaw.

 

It could be one of those things that makes a difference way down the road. Like the difference between 400,000 miles and 500,000 miles when applied to a Subaru.

 

Consider that if it reduces friction, it will run cooler, i.e., produce less waste heat, but that won't show up as anything on the temperature gauge because the t-stat just closes down to compensate and keeps the temperature the same.

 

Tracking fuel consumption very closely may show if this additive has any effect.

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what about dry gas and octane boosters?...

 

Well, I've tried Octane Boosters in different cars, both EFi and Carb, with Different Results; usually depends more on the Combustion Chamber's design, some engines does run well with lower octane fuels, and you won't notice a change in Mpg's with Octane Boosters, but some (li'l) power gain or faster acceleration in Some engines.

 

 

...also on my sons 84 gl leaking coolant ( headgasket ) we put in some Blue Devil and it hasn't leaked much since in last month.

 

Well, about Head Gaskets I really preffer to change a Blown Head Gasket ASAP, I don't like "Stop Leak" Formulas in Engines nor in Radiators ... but I've tried other "Stop Leak" formulas in other parts than the engine / Rad, with great results.

 

My Subaru "BumbleBeast" had a Power Steering Rack Leak in late 1990's Decade, it got both steering rack boots torn, so the Leak got even Worse. We used the car with Automatic Transmission Fluid on the Power Steering since the car was New, as the owner's manual said.

 

But when it leaked, I removed -almost- all the ATF from the System, and poured there Power Steering Fluid with seal conditioners, and a brand new pair of steering boots from a 'yota tercel; and "Voilá"! the Steering hasn't leaked a single dop of PSF since more than a decade ago, but the Steering became a li'l Harder.

 

I have had good luck with Seafoam for a ton of things. Never had a problem and it does a good job of cleaning gunky stuff up. Marvel Mystery Oil has worked well for me as well. Also has a nice smell :P

 

Yes, I Agree; I have used SeaFoam's "Trans Tune" on my Wife's "KiaStein" with Great Results; also Marvel Mistery Oil on my Subie's engine oil & Gas.

 

 

There may not be an immediate, noticeable difference with these additives. Not like in the chainsaw ...Tracking fuel consumption very closely may show if this additive has any effect.

 

I Agree, and That is Good Idea, I'll Report here any change in Fuel Consumption and/or engine Behaviour.

 

Kind Regards.

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