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Lubricants & Additives / Myths & Reality

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58 replies to this topic

#51 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 10:43 PM

some info on the Subaru coolant conditioner;


#52 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 12:57 PM

Thank you for Share that interesting information.

#53 robm


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Posted 24 September 2012 - 10:27 AM

Linseed meal! That goes along with the old patch-her-up-to-sell-her-quick use of oatmeal to seal leaky cooling systems.

Except the linseed meal may actually harden, the same way linseed oil in paint cures. Usually, it requires oxygen to cure, though. I am not sure how much oxygen will be dissolved in a car's cooling system.

Apparently the borax can form a rubbery substance when mixed with PVA glue (plain old Elmer's white glue, for instance). How much do you want to bet that PVA is the "proprietary resin solution"? The goop it forms is actually known as "flubber"!

Personally, I have had remarkable success with Solder Seal rad sealer. It comes as gray metallic flakes in a plastic tube about 3 inches long. It sealed a blown Loyale headgasket remarkably well. I wouldn't trust it much further than the nearest scrap yard, but the car went from filling the carport with steam, and filling the rad constantly, to no noticeable steam in the exhaust at all. I have no idea what those flakes are.

#54 torxxx


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Posted 25 September 2012 - 07:06 PM

If you are gonna use an additive and not just reg oil, I'm sayin avoid PTFE and roll with Moly. GM coated their entire engines with Moly when they started making the 5.3L Vortec engine and I've seen those run to well over 250k miles with 0 bottom end noise. Moly makes the engines frictionless, meaning the internals dont have to work as hard.

as for stop leak for cooling systems, dont use it. It has a salt based chemical in it that causes the aluminum to corrode (have a 96 OB 2.5L tore down at work right now and I was shocked to see the amount of damage its done to the coolant passages) Fix what ever is leaking and change coolant every 20k miles and you'll be fine.

As for trans additives, I refuse to use it anymore. TransX killed my SVX tranny.

Octane boost, makes your fuel more acidic so I avoid that as well. There is only one octance boost type additive thats worth using and I dont know if they even make it anymore. Its called Valv-Tech. When GM first started making the 496 marine engine, they required owners to use that additive because the pump fuel available was too low octane (engine needed 95 oct to run normally)

#55 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 11:40 PM

... avoid PTFE and roll with Moly. GM coated their entire engines with Moly when they started making the 5.3L Vortec engine and I've seen those run to well over 250k miles with 0 bottom end noise. Moly makes the engines frictionless, meaning the internals dont have to work as hard...

Thank you for that Great information, also I Agree about to avoid PTFE additives.

I've Not poured Moly on my "BumbleBeast" yet, but my Wife's "KiaStein" has it and the engine runs smooth, but I believe it is too soon to make an statement about it.

I Already purchased a Can of Moly for my BumbleBeast, I'll pour it in the Next oil change.

Kind Regards.

#56 coxy


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Posted 29 September 2012 - 06:13 PM

One very interesting aspect I have yet to see anyone mention is I use Motorcycle oils rather then car oils,Reason being they do not run any so called friction modifers because of the Wet clutch pack used in motorcycles.

When you do some research into Multigrade Oils either synthetic or Mineral based look into oil thickeners,basically what they use are Nylon based miniature additive package that resembles a clock spring spiral when cold it contracts when hot it expands.
The problem with these is any engine such as an EA81 with gears inside mulches up these additives and you can tell as when you change oils on an Engine yhat has not had regular oil changes the first thing that drains is a thick sludgey mess.Basically all of the remnants of this additive package mulched up and coagulated on the bottom of the Oil pan.

The most important additive used in Oils be they Mineral or Synthetic based is known as ZDDP,This is the anti wear package and has been steadily reduced over the years,The latest Motor Oil SAE standards have dropped the percentages considerably further simply because the Governments have mandated longer Catalytic Converter Lifr over Engine Life and it does reduce Cat Converter life.

Motorcycle oils are exempt from this latest standard so retain higher levels of ZDDP,Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W50 has one of the highest levels of ZDDP and is used in Australia by HRT (Holden Racing Team) in their V8 Race Engines it is also one of only two oils recommended by Triumph Motorcycles of Hinkley UK.

Research into various high performance enthusiasts will find that this particular topic is a hot thread,Look into the MSDS sheets for product data and look up the levels of ZDDP and base your Oils on that criteria for best engine life.

#57 Quidam


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Posted 30 September 2012 - 02:03 PM

Yea, the ZDDP thing , anyone with lifters, turbo (ours are journal bearing, not ball or roller bearing), or EA 82 should pay attention.

I wonder if the new gen small journal crank, EJ peeps have been bitten by this too. At the end of the day as it stands now, is the three way cat. ZDDP is primarily taken out of oil for that in particular to the extent it has in SN oil.

Highest point of friction in an overhead valve engine is lifter to cam lobe interface. If you put a reground cam in an EA 81 lubed with moly with SN oil in the pan,, that increases the odds of wiping those cams out. Traditionally, moly lubes the cam until the ZDDP can take over. That's in short supply with just an SN oil.

The old small block Chevy's are priority lifter/cam oiling, lubes cam and lifters first. My LS 6.0 new gen small block is priority main. That's a good thing, and with roller cam, lifters, and rockers is how they were able to change that.

Our EA 82 motors are Priority Main engines (first to receive oil from the pump), but this still isn't good news for the bearings and valve train, this SN oil.

Anyway, here's a good chart.
Posted Image

Our old engines were built to run generally twice as much Zinc and phosphorous as what's in SN oil. There are oil's available like this with the additive package restored for our old cars.
Posted Image Posted Image

And stuff like this to add to lesser formulations.
Posted Image


Edited by Quidam, 01 October 2012 - 07:33 PM.

#58 robm


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Posted 01 October 2012 - 10:45 AM

I don't recommend rad sealers for long term use. But it might it get you out of the bush with a blown head gasket or leaky radiator. The Alumaweld or Solder Seal stuff, powder in a little plastic tube, might be cheap insurance to carry in the tool box when far from civilization.

#59 maozebong


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Posted 05 October 2012 - 05:22 PM

so, just recently, i checked an experimental axle, in which the ball bearing cages were dremeled out to fit the CV joint balls more loosely than stock. it has worked beautifully... but that is not the point.

Almagard 3752 is by far the best CV grease i have ever used. my cv axle boot broke 3 months ago, and even after putting over 10k miles on a axle with a torn boot, there is still a healthy coat of grease on everything, and more than enough grease still in the cup.

almagard doesnt sling out like the rest, and leaves a coating on the axles innards that doesnt wipe off. literally, this grease needs a solvent to be fully removed. it even made less of a mess in the wheel well.

even on disassembly, the axle has noticeably less wear than i have ever seen on an axle that has been driven +10k miles with a torn boot.

not even kidding, as soon as i get money, im ordering a case of this ************.

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