matts87glsedan Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 any tips before i tie into a tie rod replacement? Not the end, the rod itself is broke right at the jam nut threads. Im considering taking the whole steering gear and rods off and replacing with JY. but i dont have the steering gear boots off or any thing yet. anyway, just starting a thread because i know i'll be hunting for info tomorrow. cheers - matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Are the nuts with the outer tie rod end? The inner tie rod end unthreads from the end of the rack. Pull the boot off of the rack, crank the wheel all the way towards that side, and put a wrench on the inner tie rod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 beautiful. five minutes and ive learned more than the manual tells me. yes the nut is with the outer end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 people helping people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 ya, replacing all now appears to be a dumb idea. how tough is a rack and pinion set up on an ea82? this wheel took a solid jolt when the rod broke. I was sliding hard sideways to the right when the back of the right front tire hit something hard. this pulled on the steering rod to the point where it broke on the inside of the jam nut. but the pull was really more of a solid smack. i hope i havent wrecked anything else besides the rod. daeron... you hippy...thanks for reading my thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 how tough is a rack and pinion set up on an ea82? Virtually unkillable. Amazing the punishment my lifted wagon's power rack has taken. I tore it down looking for a problem that turned out to be something completely urelated to the rack, and it looked nice inside. Realy simple design too. I doubt you hurt it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 matt: thank you. I hold some of those people in pretty high regard.. I have often had the impulse to make a post like that. for some reason, I chose yours. When you think about it, a LOT of people off-road in these things, and they don't really talk too much about steering racks.. at all.. I hit a curb and ed a tie rod end a few months back and was asking the same questions about the durability of the steering rack.. its pretty rugged. But easy work to replace. That is nice, because finishing it makes you feel less dumb for having (hit a curb, spun around and hit something, insert reason you feel dumb for having broken this here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 had to replace a bent one on my wagon - kind of a pain to get the inner end loose, but it can be done. highly recommend you get an alignment when you finish getting it swapped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 steering racks are really easy to replace. as expensive as tie rods are, if you had another rack lying around it would be very easy to put in place. but new tie rods are a nice thing, for safety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 bloody hell, expensive is right. 125$ plus tax for the inner end at NAPA here in B.C. grrr. this could mean a bus trip to the junk yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 so, inner end unthreaded easy with the help of a pipe wrench. outer end, loosened castle nut out to top of stud and knocked it with a hammer. some other fallout from this episode- i pushed the car down the road a few blocks before parking it, and with the wheel being cranked over and under power and all, i twisted up my outer cv boot. now both inner and outer are throwing grease, and the stupid thing has only about 5000kms on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts87glsedan Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 ok final comments on this thread. tie rod, ball joint and wheel bearings done during this session. I now posess the 3 Sacred Bushings Of The Axle Replacement.. all hail them.. and The Big Washer too.. beside them I lay the Cut Off 30mm Wrench of the Inner Tie Rod.. all hail the special tools not to mention a ball joint popper and a banding tool for cv boots. (im taking that back i think). over all it took too long and was a pain in the rump roast, but my metric setup is refined now, and i learned alot about my car susp. , and steering. the tool selection and general sube knowledge is sinking in. i may try to fab a lift myself now. I'm going to read about it at least. heating the hub is the business when it comes to those wheel bearings. I like tapered ones better tho'. i need a mofo digital camera RIGHT NOW! i had a lot of good pic opportunities . you know, i have to clamp a propane torch in a drum kit stand, and heat the crankcase of my air compressor, so i can get it to generate operating speed without blowing the breaker. that licks balls. ok thanks for the help. Matt. ps. Princess Auto is the shizznit! so what if it breaks, they have a no questions asked return policy. and specialty tools? woohoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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