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Stoped in Drive Vibration


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34 replies to this topic

#26 WoodsWagon

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 03:10 PM

I doubt that it's the brake booster, as the vibration remains if you pull the handbrake on and let off the foot brake.

#27 brooksblues

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:38 PM

Neutral when I care - 1996 Legacy 2.2L sedan.


Exact same for me. I am very used to throwing my car in neutral at a stop light.

#28 dj3stripes

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 02:17 AM

Exact same for me. I am very used to throwing my car in neutral at a stop light.


i do this as well, does this cause damage to the car in anyway? i never assumed it did, but you know what they say about 'assume'

#29 Aspen

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Posted 15 January 2007 - 09:41 AM

You might want to consider this: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegacyIdleSum04.pdf


Thanks, but I don't think that is it. 1) the wires are new 2) shake was there before and after a spark plug change, 3) it would idle poorly all the time, not only when the car is in gear.

I suspect the IAC is still not right, but don't want to buy a new one. Could be a software problem or a sensor issue.

DJ3Stripes, the throttle body is the metal part with the throttle plate inside. You see it at the top centre of the engine with a big black plastic air box with tubes behind it. Disconnect that box and spray in a bunch of throttle body cleaner.

#30 SuBrat84

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Posted 15 January 2007 - 09:59 AM

I can't believe I just read through this whole thread and no one even SUGGESTED or MENTIONED anyone even LOOKING at their motor / tranny mounts. The tranny mounts are CHEAP. (by cheap I mean they SUCK.) I would guess 90% of you have some rubber going bad. Transmission mounts on a 99 Leg cost like $35 at the dealership. You could probably find after market ones that are better and still reasonably priced. Engines vibrate. The only reason we're not supposed to feel it are those nice thick chunks of rubber. If that rubber is crapped out.. it is going to transfer vibration into parts of the car that you're not used to noticing it. You will first start noticing these symptoms in a forward gear with the brake applied. MAN That sounds a lot like what you all are describing. Give a look at your motor mounts (there should be two) and also at your transmission mounts (Differs by model but usually two as well, plus a wierd extra shifter bushing thingy sometimes too.) Look for cracking in the rubber.. loose bolts/nuts.. missing rubber.. etc. If I was trying to make vibrating go away, and my car wasn't throwing any codes or idling wierd I would start with replacing transmission mounts, followed by motor mounts. If that doesn't solve it I would start looking at crossmembers, CVs, brakes, brake booster, steering components. Remember people.. rubbers don't do anything if they are old and stale! :grin:

#31 nipper

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Posted 15 January 2007 - 10:31 AM

Remember people.. rubbers don't do anything if they are old and stale! :grin:


er um your talking tires belts and hoses here right :rolleyes:

nipper

#32 dj3stripes

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Posted 15 January 2007 - 01:20 PM

i always felt that it was something to do with the transmission in general , since it happens in gear, how much should i expect a mechanic to charge me to change out these rubber pieces? i know it's something i can't tackle on my own

#33 SuBrat84

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 03:01 AM

i always felt that it was something to do with the transmission in general , since it happens in gear, how much should i expect a mechanic to charge me to change out these rubber pieces? i know it's something i can't tackle on my own


It's a pretty easy change. I wouldn't expect a shop to charge you more than 1-2 hrs. for labor. At my local dealership that would be ~$200 ($95/hr) and then they always add "extra" for the parts so.. maybe $250 total to have tranny mounts done at the dealership. Any more than that I would start to be scared. I would do it for $40 + you buy the parts if you were anywhere near me.

#34 Aspen

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 10:05 AM

Actually I have inspected all the mounts and retorqued all the bolts. There are no visible problems. Also the motor was out of the car for the HG repair and put back in and the problem persists.
It may be related to the mounts, but mine 'look' OK. No sign of wear, no rust, no bulges or cracks. I am unconvinced.
I gave this problem a pretty good run to try to resolve it last summer. It got better, but it is still there and I find it is worse on cold days with the engine cold.
I have been looking for a reason to go with Group N mounts on my impreza, so maybe I will do a switch some time.

#35 nipper

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 10:12 AM

Actually I have inspected all the mounts and retorqued all the bolts. There are no visible problems. Also the motor was out of the car for the HG repair and put back in and the problem persists.
It may be related to the mounts, but mine 'look' OK. No sign of wear, no rust, no bulges or cracks. I am unconvinced.
I gave this problem a pretty good run to try to resolve it last summer. It got better, but it is still there and I find it is worse on cold days with the engine cold.
I have been looking for a reason to go with Group N mounts on my impreza, so maybe I will do a switch some time.


You need to find a really good shop, who doesnt just rely on ECU trouble codes. You need to find one with an engine analyzer to scope the engine and see whats going on.

nipper




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