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Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:50 PM
check to see if the oxygen sensor is working. the california models have 3 wires, and the others have one wire.
you can get a generic bosch unit for way cheaper than an oe unit, and clamp the existing wire to the new o2 sensor.
get a volt/ohm meter. test the resistance values when cold and hot, and determine it works properly. do the same for other sensors as well.
the haynes book has a general reference for volts and resistance for trouble-shooting.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:53 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:57 PM
Your hydrocarbons are through the roof and your CO dose pass at idle. So here are my thoughts.
1. Check your spark plugs, High HC indicates too rich of a mixture, look at the condition of the plugs and are they NGK plugs. If they are not NGKs that could be your problem right there.
2. See if the ecu has any stored codes, I wouldn't be surprised to see and O2 sensor code.
3. Also where is your timing set, I belive it's 15degrees for a ea81t
Posted 17 November 2003 - 11:02 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 11:03 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 11:44 PM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 12:18 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 12:31 AM
when you get tired of playing around with your car do your self a favor and go to the auto store and get your self G2P/Gaurantee 2 Pass they make it for both carb and fuel injected follow the instructions exactly as it tells you. its perfectly legal and they will give your money back if it does not pass It's about $8.00 what have you got to loose?
Posted 18 November 2003 - 01:25 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 01:50 AM
I am not "Whining" maybe what to u sounds like whining is me asking for advice!? It seems like when ever I ask a ? I get shot down... And to the don't ruin the car, I think it would be pretty damn funny to beat this with a hammer and send pics! Maybe people would stop "Whining" about how mint it is, cause its NOT mint, it has rust and it obviously won't pass emissions. And to me not knowing how to work on a subaru, well I think i'm not doing so bad for this being my first car, first time i've worked on a car, and I am only 18! SOOO... Stop whining about how much u don't like me and get over it! I'm not really that mean of a guy, yes I can be annoying, I'm working on it. But asking for advice and getting yelled at for whining isn't helping me at all.
(And my soob was not nearly this "Mint" b4 I bought it! I*** Fixed it up. with the help of a few people with the tranny but thats it.)
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:00 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:18 AM
never have I seen so manny opinions about how to pass smog.
for real the only thing that really says anything is the test results.
I wont B.S. you. I have a smog licence here in CA where I am sure the requirements are much stricter.
A few people have noticed the high HC and had a few guesses.
high HC is unburned fuel. high CO is a rich mixture.
MISFIRE is the number one cause of high HC.
you say car runs like crap. right? is it at idle only or all the time?
have you done a cyl. ballance test or a compression test?
If you dont want to deal with figuring out whats really wrong I strongly sugest taking it to someone who knows thier stuff and has the propper diagnostic tools. dont just shot gun parts and snake oil at it. a misfire should be easy for a professional to find.
hope your cats are still alive. good luck.
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:21 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:22 AM
my wagon with the weber...
once i found that same hole, i plugged it up, and it idled soo smooth and low, now it can smoothly run at about 300rpms and not die!! (i am the master weber adjuster now! :cool: )
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:43 AM
if you want to check for the mystery vac. leak. get a can of carb spray/ brakeclean ect. and give it a few squirts in the intake while it is idling. if the idle smooths out for a second then yes you have a leak. take same can and squirt near throttle body, vac. lins ect.
you do have a fire ext. handy correct?
so if all that proves that there is no rpm rise while adding a outside fuel source then do a ghetto cyl. ballance test.
step one - get some vac. line and cut 4 inch long pieces.
take peices and put them between the plug wires and the cap. do not let them touch anything else!
step two - start the motor and using a grounded test light. touch the test light probe to the vac. lines one by one. listen to the rpm.
it should drop evinly on each cyl. if not the cyl. that does not drop rpm. is your misfire. check/change plug wires and plugs.
compression? no pressure, no bang.
these are real tests no B.S. there are better ways to check for these problems but it requires the right equipment and understanding.
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:46 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:51 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 08:34 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:16 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:21 AM
Remember if you fail emissions testing again, every test after that will cost you another $15
I just did mine in pierce county in june(tacoma and puyallup).. had to do it 4 times.. they only chrged me the first and third times.....
Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:43 AM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 03:47 PM
Posted 18 November 2003 - 09:36 PM
Posted 19 November 2003 - 12:24 AM
Unless there is some obvious noticeable problem, smoke or smell, do the normal maintenance(oil, filter, air filter, plugs wires) take it out on the freeway.. make sure the car is nice and warm and you have run it hard enough to warm the cats up and blow out ant crap settled in the exhaust.. then take it through and see what happens.. no sense trying to fix it if you don't know if its broken
The reason people are down on you is because you didnt follow directions. You asked for help and the ones that have gone thru the emissions BS told you what was needed. The ones that passed without touching the engines were very lucky. Personally, I think you should sell the car, the EA81T is to complicated .
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