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FAILED Emissions!


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57 replies to this topic

#26 MilesFox

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:50 PM

yo! i couldnt buy an ea81 t in my area. the one i had was gone to hell when i got it. but i would go thru the hassle of puttin one together(again).

check to see if the oxygen sensor is working. the california models have 3 wires, and the others have one wire.

you can get a generic bosch unit for way cheaper than an oe unit, and clamp the existing wire to the new o2 sensor.

get a volt/ohm meter. test the resistance values when cold and hot, and determine it works properly. do the same for other sensors as well.

the haynes book has a general reference for volts and resistance for trouble-shooting.

#27 Nug

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:52 PM

The car has a cat, right? Decent shape?

#28 MilesFox

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:53 PM

yo i just thought of something. it sounds like a vacuum leak with the hight idle. i would speculate because i remember from my ea81t 5spd had an automatic. there is a small dooker straight behind the intake mounted by the bitch bar bracket. it (WENT) to the automatic, no now it needs plugged off. its real tiny, just plug it off

#29 GLCraig

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:57 PM

Okay Matt let's take a look at a few things.

Your hydrocarbons are through the roof and your CO dose pass at idle. So here are my thoughts.

1. Check your spark plugs, High HC indicates too rich of a mixture, look at the condition of the plugs and are they NGK plugs. If they are not NGKs that could be your problem right there.

2. See if the ecu has any stored codes, I wouldn't be surprised to see and O2 sensor code.

3. Also where is your timing set, I belive it's 15degrees for a ea81t

#30 MilesFox

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 11:02 PM

check the knock sensor. the hayned book describes it as "tap the ngine case with w wrench, and see if the idle changes" be careful of the connector, as i have seen the crack on ea82's

#31 Nug

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 11:03 PM

I got suckered into helping a guy at work getting his ford van to pass the test. His CO was 500% higher than the limit. Cranking the timing up 5 degrees past the limit and about 50% alcohol in the tank brought it well within limits. Your car is turbo, and might not like that much timing. But everyone likes alcohol:drunk: You might not want to leave it in there very long because it absorbs water like crazy, and helps things corrode. So drive it out when you pass:-)

#32 Myxalplyx

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Posted 17 November 2003 - 11:44 PM

You need to be more specific on exactly what type of alcohol can be used. Don't be surprised if someone posts about pouring some Bud Lite into the gas tank. :-\

#33 edrach

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 12:18 AM

Matt, do yourself a favor and talk to Austin about the guy in South Seattle who will make your car pass emissions or not charge you a penny for the work. He will tell you if you need to change the air cleaner, plugs, correct the advance or anything else that YOU can do to get it ready for him to properly adjust. Do the right thing and make it pass legally and at the least cost to you.

#34 hassey

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 12:31 AM

Matt

when you get tired of playing around with your car do your self a favor and go to the auto store and get your self G2P/Gaurantee 2 Pass they make it for both carb and fuel injected follow the instructions exactly as it tells you. its perfectly legal and they will give your money back if it does not pass It's about $8.00 what have you got to loose?

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#35 Mr. Carb

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 01:25 AM

Hey matt My dad and I looked at yer test results, my dad says you have alot of hydro carbons, wich means you Either have A, bad spark plug, B. bad o2 sensor so the car is burning rich, or C. a bad catolitic converter, try looking at the plugs. Hope it helps, bottom line is, it's burning more gas than it should be burning. Fix that and it should pass:headbang:

#36 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 01:50 AM

And stop whining! If you dont like the car, sell it. If you want a carb'd wagon to lift... buy one. Don't ruin a perfect EA81T Wagon.
I am not "Whining" maybe what to u sounds like whining is me asking for advice!? It seems like when ever I ask a ? I get shot down... And to the don't ruin the car, I think it would be pretty damn funny to beat this with a hammer and send pics! Maybe people would stop "Whining" about how mint it is, cause its NOT mint, it has rust and it obviously won't pass emissions. And to me not knowing how to work on a subaru, well I think i'm not doing so bad for this being my first car, first time i've worked on a car, and I am only 18! SOOO... Stop whining about how much u don't like me and get over it! I'm not really that mean of a guy, yes I can be annoying, I'm working on it. But asking for advice and getting yelled at for whining isn't helping me at all.
(And my soob was not nearly this "Mint" b4 I bought it! I*** Fixed it up. with the help of a few people with the tranny but thats it.)

#37 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:00 AM

WOW I didn't see the 2nd page of posts... Thanks u (Helpful) people.:D I will try that guy that ed is talking about. Miles wrote-"there is a small dooker straight behind the intake mounted by the bitch bar bracket. it (WENT) to the automatic, no now it needs plugged off. its real tiny, just plug it off" DUDE!!! Ur right! I remember that! Is that a problem? I will check the plugs tomorrow... My ECU is throwing codes 11 & 12. And it starts to flash when I get on the boost.

#38 rallyruss

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:18 AM

dam yo !
never have I seen so manny opinions about how to pass smog.
for real the only thing that really says anything is the test results.
I wont B.S. you. I have a smog licence here in CA where I am sure the requirements are much stricter.
A few people have noticed the high HC and had a few guesses.
high HC is unburned fuel. high CO is a rich mixture.
MISFIRE is the number one cause of high HC.
you say car runs like crap. right? is it at idle only or all the time?
have you done a cyl. ballance test or a compression test?
If you dont want to deal with figuring out whats really wrong I strongly sugest taking it to someone who knows thier stuff and has the propper diagnostic tools. dont just shot gun parts and snake oil at it. a misfire should be easy for a professional to find.
hope your cats are still alive. good luck.

#39 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:21 AM

it idles badly under 1000rpm. It runs like a cat with a sculded rump roast when im on it though!:burnout:

#40 Ratty2Austin

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:22 AM

yes, the vacuume leak caused by that little dealy-bob not being plugged up will cause the idle to change enough to make it not pass emissions.... i should know, i barely passed because of that same problem-
my wagon with the weber...
once i found that same hole, i plugged it up, and it idled soo smooth and low, now it can smoothly run at about 300rpms and not die!! (i am the master weber adjuster now! :cool: )

#41 rallyruss

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:43 AM

ok I looked at your test results again and I seriously am really saying not a vac. leak
if you want to check for the mystery vac. leak. get a can of carb spray/ brakeclean ect. and give it a few squirts in the intake while it is idling. if the idle smooths out for a second then yes you have a leak. take same can and squirt near throttle body, vac. lins ect.

you do have a fire ext. handy correct?

so if all that proves that there is no rpm rise while adding a outside fuel source then do a ghetto cyl. ballance test.

step one - get some vac. line and cut 4 inch long pieces.
take peices and put them between the plug wires and the cap. do not let them touch anything else!
step two - start the motor and using a grounded test light. touch the test light probe to the vac. lines one by one. listen to the rpm.
it should drop evinly on each cyl. if not the cyl. that does not drop rpm. is your misfire. check/change plug wires and plugs.
compression? no pressure, no bang.
these are real tests no B.S. there are better ways to check for these problems but it requires the right equipment and understanding.

#42 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:46 AM

we have a compression testor, if thats what ur getting at?

#43 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 02:51 AM

I went outside, plugged the vacuum leak problem. And it did seem to run a tad better. Too bad I tinkered with the idle adjustment, now Austins tells me thats not to be messed with...:-\ I don't see how it has to be EXACTLY perfect. But I will try to check some of the stuff U guys said tomorrow... Like air cleaner, plugs vacuum leaks, and so on...

#44 calebz

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 08:34 AM

Matt.. you were told to deal with air cleaner and plugs and all the basic tune up stuff before you went in to get it tested. you didn't even bother to do that? you were just asking to fail....

#45 edrach

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:16 AM

I'm with rallyruss--"take it to someone who knows what he's doing." Take it to the guy in South Seattle (call me and I'll give you directions--or ask Austin); he'll charge you $39.95 plus tax IF you pass; if not, there's no charge. How can you lose? He's state certified (he has to be to be legally in business) and carries complete "sniffer" equipment in his portable van. If he can't get the emissions down, he will tell you EXACTLY what is wrong without any guessing and you can decide where to go from there. Remember if you fail emissions testing again, every test after that will cost you another $15 (no more freebies after two failures). Matt, you're a bright kid and I know cost is an issue, but do the right thing!

#46 calebz

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:21 AM

Remember if you fail emissions testing again, every test after that will cost you another $15



I just did mine in pierce county in june(tacoma and puyallup).. had to do it 4 times.. they only chrged me the first and third times.....

#47 edrach

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:43 AM

Interesting, the new vendor for emissions claims that all tests after the second one are charged the $15. I could have been told bogus info by the guy at the Redmond station. I'll check it out--actually, Matt, why don't you check it out for us.

#48 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 03:47 PM

Redmond? Well its pooring down rain right now. I don't remember reading the post about the air filter change and stuff b4 I went threw emissions... I could be wrong I dunno. But ya I will try this guy, if its that cheap.

#49 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 09:36 PM

Yes... My air filter was just black, and when I dropped it it left a rectangular powdering of dirt on the ground! I couldn't even see threw it. So I got a new one popped it in, and the car idles sooo much better. It also feels peppyer and its getting more boost. I also plugged the vacuum leak and and checked the NGK plugs.

#50 Turbone

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Posted 19 November 2003 - 12:24 AM

From Caleb on the 16th -

Unless there is some obvious noticeable problem, smoke or smell, do the normal maintenance(oil, filter, air filter, plugs wires) take it out on the freeway.. make sure the car is nice and warm and you have run it hard enough to warm the cats up and blow out ant crap settled in the exhaust.. then take it through and see what happens.. no sense trying to fix it if you don't know if its broken



The reason people are down on you is because you didnt follow directions. You asked for help and the ones that have gone thru the emissions BS told you what was needed. The ones that passed without touching the engines were very lucky. Personally, I think you should sell the car, the EA81T is to complicated .
Rob




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