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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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10 replies to this topic

#1 JWX

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 08:08 PM

ok the rust on my car has gotten worse since the last time I looked at it (bout two months ago) so if I get some rust Prohibitive spray paint do ya'll think it will last until spring time when I go to cut it out and fix it? and what about that por-15 stuff would that last long enough to stop this stuff form spreading more than it has now?

#2 trooperjeep

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 10:38 PM

Had similar problems with my 92 Loyale. Here's my fix in a nut-shell...

1. Removed all the really loose rust with a heavy wire brush

2. Use a rust-converter spray (or similar) let dry. Give it another coat. Let it dry.

3. Prime the area (and inside the hole) with a sandable primer spray paint.

4. Fill the holes & voids with a water-proof expanding foam in-a-can stuff. They sell this at your local home improvement store. Make sure it's maximum expanding and water-proof!
Mask off any areas you don't want it to stick to and wear gloves cause it dosen't come off! Let it dry overnight.

5. The next day take a sharp knife and carve off the excess foam

6. Blend the foam and edges of metal together with your favorite fiberglass. I used marine grade water-proof fiberglass.

7. Sand area till edges are blended and smooth. Repeat step 6 if necessary.

8. Mask off areas and spray with a sandable primer. Let dry.

9. Lightly sand area till smooth

10. Spray final coat of Paint.



:D
T.J.

#3 subarubrat

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 10:59 PM

POR15 is a permanent solution treatment. Lets say you have a rusty piece of sheet metal that is not rusted through and still sound. You brush off the loose stuff and treat the pannel with POR15 and then paint over that with what ever finish you choose. It is also good for treating areas that are prone to rust. I have used a combination of POR15 and stainless sheet metal for all rust repairs on the BRAT. I am not too far from declairing it rust free.

POR15 is expensive but worth every penny, so is stainless. But I know that an area fixed this way will never give me a problem again.

#4 brus brother

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Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:19 PM

The good thing about the foam technique is that after a series of these types of repairs, you can reregister the car as a boat and if it's anything like my Subarus here in the northeast, you start to notice better gas mileage as you replace that pesky heavy metal with lightweight fiberglass. If you live in the rust belt, I hate to discourage you but it's return is inevitable.

#5 JWX

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Posted 19 November 2003 - 01:09 AM

the rust is in front of the rear tires on the wheel well. so I don't think the foam trick will help me. I plan on cutting out the rust welding in new pieces and then sanding down the whole car and re-painting it. I just want to make it stop until I can do that in the spring

#6 burden2

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Posted 19 November 2003 - 06:54 AM

Guys
Hate to chuck cold water on the foam theory but its a real b***h of a stuff, I did a car of mine a couple of years ago. It made an excellent job of filling in the gap and was a really convincing sounding body panel when it came inspection time but within a month it has started rusting again but further along from the repair (I filled the sills). The dam stuff actually holds the moisture against the sheetmetal and gives it a great atmosphere for rust to grow!!

#7 JWX

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Posted 21 November 2003 - 11:24 PM

bump so do ya'll think one of those rust inhibiting spray paints work or not

#8 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 21 November 2003 - 11:28 PM

Hate to break it to you, but POR15 is really the only thing for rust. I've tried lots of stuff over the years - rust always comes back.

GD

#9 MilesFox

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Posted 21 November 2003 - 11:34 PM

i got that expanding foam on my fingernail, and it took like 2 weeks to wear off

#10 JWX

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Posted 21 November 2003 - 11:35 PM

ya I know that. I'm going to cut it out come spring I just need to stop it now so I don't have to cut in to the car when I do. I don't want to cut it out until I can weld some more in it

#11 the_bard

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Posted 21 November 2003 - 11:43 PM

From what I've heard & seen, the only way to really stop it is to either cut & weld, or POR-15.

The sprays/brush-on-stuff work, but for a limited time... they're what I'm using right now as a temporary stop gap to hold my Loyale together until I pick up its replacement. If'n you're gonna be cutting and welding later this spring, I'd go this route, and fiberglass-patch any rot holes.

I wouldn't trust the foam stuff... I've heard too many thoughts about it holding moisture against the sheetmetal.




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