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Slight issues getting it running (long, confusing, and plenty of run-on sentences)
Posted 18 November 2003 - 10:34 PM
This is what it will do. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump comes on for a sec or two, and shuts off. And it will crank. It's kind of hard to hear, being in an enclosed shop and a gear reduction starter going to town, but I don't think the fuel pump is running while cranking. And there is no spark.
First I would like to say that I know the ecu is getting power in all the places it needs to, and everything is grounded real well. Like major overkill grounding. Second, I forgot my voltmeter, so this thread may not have been necessary, but whatever. The car is in my parent's garage, 35 miles from where I live, so I couldn't just go and grab it. Third, It has power at the coil and ignitor, but no spark.
Initially I thought "Hey, sounds like crank sensor, with the fuel pump not coming on while cranking and no spark, right?" So I tried to remove it and promptly broke it. $190 later, i have a new sensor in there and same thing. The real goober is that I know the crank, cam, MAF, and knock sensor wiring is all ok because those were some things that i could leave unmolested while stripping the harness down in preparation for the swap.
Basically, I have doubts on only one wire on the whole dooker (word courtesy of Miles Fox) and it's a MAF wire, and I don't think that would cause all this. I'm pretty sure it's all right. I'm also fairly confident that I have the 2 U-check wires correctly marked, but when i try to run codes (for the hell of it, I know it hasn't even run yet) I get nothing from the check engine light (which is currently just a 12v test light. It makes no attempt to come on at any time.
Who thinks my ecm took a nasty dump?
BTW I saw this engine run. It was running very well moments before I ripped it out of a perfectly good legacy sedan w/no title.
But the ecu and harness are from a different car. And I believe It was a manual harness and an auto ecm. Which isn't supposed to me that big a deal, aside from a couple small discrepancies.
Anyone confused yet?
Posted 18 November 2003 - 10:47 PM
$190 later, i have a new sensor in there .
I thought we were being robbed here in Montreal (160$ Can for a crank sensor) but 190$ USD that's criminal.
I bought mine from 1stSubaruparts for 17$ USD !!!!!
Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:37 PM
Any way to 'hard wire' the fuel pump just till the the thing starts?
Posted 18 November 2003 - 11:46 PM
The computer isn't picking up crankshaft rotation, or there would be spark, and the fuel pump would be running, right?
Posted 19 November 2003 - 09:30 AM
Have you back-probed the fuel pump wiring to actually verify the pump is coming on, and then shutting off? Or are you going by sound? Verify it with a voltmeter to be sure.
Next, verify the wiring is good from the ECU to the crank & cam sensors. Check resistance on the wires, make sure they have zero continuity.
You're positive the tone wheels on the crank and cam are ok and nothing has been damaged?
I'm assuming the engine is properly & well grounded correct?
What year legacy did you take the motor from?
What year legacy did you take the wiring harness & ECU from?
Posted 19 November 2003 - 09:37 AM
17$ might be low but that's exactly what I paid at 1stSubaruparts.
Just to check, what's the model year of your engine? That's the only reason I could understand the price differential and even there...
Posted 19 November 2003 - 09:48 AM
The crank sensor for 95-03 Legacies is 17$ but for 90 -94 it's 183$ !!!!!
So I guess your engine is in that range.
Can the parts be so different???
Posted 19 November 2003 - 09:55 AM
I'm going by sound on the fuel pump, because it's a MSD pump and it is as loud as a blender.
The engine has huge ground cables from the engine to frame to battery, and the ecu has multiple grounding pionts as well.
The tone wheels look positively fine. On the crank side, anyway. Never had the cam sensor out, and engine rran before I pulled it out of the donor car.
I have not checked continuity in the sensor wiring yet. I remembered my voltmeter today, will do that this evening.
Is the check engine light a LED or a regular bulb? Because a regular 12v bulb in my testlight never came on (it's a temporary chk eng light).
Posted 19 November 2003 - 11:39 AM
I'll let ya know what I find out.
Posted 20 November 2003 - 10:24 AM
Read memory connectors are Red Black & Black Red
Test memory connectors are Orange & Black Red
(The Black Red wiring is shared between the read & test connectors)
The check engine light bulb wire is Red Yellow. However I don't know if the ECU is sourcing or sinking a voltage. Nor do I know if it's 12v or 5v. I'd suggest probing the actual pins on the ECU.
The read mode connector is terminal 12 on connector B56
The test mode connector is terminal 13 on connector B56
The CEL light is terminal 19 on connector F47.
(the note on the CEL is LED "ON": 1,max. LED "OFF": 10-14)
I'm not sure if they're referring to the O2 monitor LED on the ECU that is blinking....or if they're talking about the light in the combination meter.
That's the other thing, there is an O2 monitor LED on the ECU which will display codes too.
These pages will be helpful and have the same info I just posted on the connector/terminal info, as well as a pic of the connectors.
Posted 20 November 2003 - 01:34 PM
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