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Weber rebuild and install on ea81


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Got me self a weber 32/36 DGAV from JY off a bmw for 38 Bucks,says brevettato on on side and stamped on top is Bologna Italy. I was under impression that DGAV was a water choke but it seems that the choke i have is not a water choke? Do i need the choke, we have mild winters (lowest ever is 4 celsius) and hot dry summers.

 

Can i also get some advice about the jets, I took a photo and recorded all the numbers, I think they match up with what GD recommends, can you tell me which are which, also where are the emulsion tubes?

 

Other questions include. I am not clear whether the power steering reservoir/pump will get in the way on an ea81 motor? Is this a problem only on ea82. Also GD you mention JD weld to cover the coolant hole on the manifold what is JD weld? Excuse my ignorance, will this only be an issue if the adapter plate doesnt fit correctly? How can i install so that i have the AC idle up as well. It gets up to 45 celsius here so need my AC.Probably got more questions, buit get these sortyed first:confused:

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Cmon all I know there are lots of weber fans out there. You must know something. Otherwise looks like i'll stick with me hitachi. It goes and gets better mileage than the factory lists it should. But seems everyone wants a weber must be something to it!

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Jets all look fine. That's an old school manual choke (all of them are stamped DGAV, regardless of choke type). Emulsion tubes are under the air bleeds - the ones that are 160/170.

 

That's a really old Italian weber..... really old. I would make sure it doesn't have any play in the thottle shafts or choke plate shafts before using it. And it looks like it needs about 50 gallons of carb cleaner run over it plus a rebuild kit. Swap out to an electric choke or something too.

 

It's JB weld, not JD. Do a google on it - it's a two part metal impregnated epoxy.

 

GD

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Gday GD, thanx for that

 

It does have a fair bit of play in the primary throttle shaft, I was going to take it to the local carby shop and get them to re-bush it. I think the bushes are about $3, labour probably more!

 

How do i remove the emulsion tubes to clean them? I cant see anyway to screw them out. They just look like brass tubes with a circle in the middle, is there a special tool or are these old school ones not interchangeable?

 

Starting to think that i should buy an already rebuilt one of ebay, cause I will spend $50 on cleaner!! and a kit $60. :lol: and adapter, etc.

 

What about the install, is the power steering pump/reservoir an issue on ea-81 motors?

 

What do i do with the fuel separator, there doesnt seem to be a return line from the carb, should i ditch it and put another filter in line and plug the return line?

 

This is daunting for me, but kinda fun, the weber itself is quite big and kinda sexy, want to install it just for fun ya know

 

O yeah i know that metal epoxy stuff, we dont have JB weld here but have used similar to fix radiator, thermostat housing that was leaking, etc. Thankx

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Gday GD, thanx for that

 

It does have a fair bit of play in the primary throttle shaft, I was going to take it to the local carby shop and get them to re-bush it. I think the bushes are about $3, labour probably more!

 

That's pretty typical I've found - I had one like that and it wouldn't idle smooth. I swapped out the carb body with another I had.

 

How do i remove the emulsion tubes to clean them? I cant see anyway to screw them out. They just look like brass tubes with a circle in the middle, is there a special tool or are these old school ones not interchangeable?

 

With the jetting you have, it's almost a gaurantee they are F-50's anyway. But to remove them (you should for cleaning anyway) make a tiny "L" shaped hook with the end of a paper clip and catch the hook on the inside of the tube - it's perforated with many holes, so just grab one and pull it out. You may need to soak the carb body in carb cleaner overnight to free them.

 

Starting to think that i should buy an already rebuilt one of ebay, cause I will spend $50 on cleaner!! and a kit $60. :lol: and adapter, etc.

 

I've found that a good rule is that a decent running weber is going to cost you about $200 - $300. Either for one that's rebuilt, or a cheap one that needs it and you spend the remainder on parts, cleaner, adaptor plate, etc. And lets not forget your time - that's worth something. Last one I did cost me $190 total, and I consider that a good deal. Would have been more if I hadn't had another body to swap for the worn shaft.

 

What about the install, is the power steering pump/reservoir an issue on ea-81 motors?

 

No - the power steering on the EA81 is different than the EA82.

 

What do i do with the fuel separator, there doesnt seem to be a return line from the carb, should i ditch it and put another filter in line and plug the return line?

 

Ditch the vapor seperator, and just run a straight through filter. Cap the return line to the tank if that old weber doesn't have a screw-in fuel supply barb. If it does, then screw in the one from the Hitachi and attach the return line to it.

 

This is daunting for me, but kinda fun, the weber itself is quite big and kinda sexy, want to install it just for fun ya know

 

Naw - it's really pretty easy actually. You'll get the hang of it. Just rebuild it carefullly or you'll have trouble making it run right.

 

O yeah i know that metal epoxy stuff, we dont have JB weld here but have used similar to fix radiator, thermostat housing that was leaking, etc. Thankx

 

Huh - well it's really popular here. But I'm sure you can find something. Basically it's just liquid metal with a hardening agent. They claim you can fix cracked engine blocks with it, etc :eek:

 

GD

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Thanks again GD

 

I have rebuilt a hitachi a few times, got it right in the end. Have learnt that carbys are best done slowly and surely. This is all new so am a little cautious sorry for so many questions.

 

Ok can see how to get emulsion tubes out, is there anything else to be aware of when cleaning (hidden filters)?, they seem pretty simple carbs really which is nice.

 

Where would the return barb go? On the top cover opposite the fuel inlet?

 

Dont know if I can find another body in JY, only one near here and this is the first weber I have seen in two years there! I take your point though, i see one on ebay exactlty the same as mine and he wants $300 posted, so maybe this will be OK, if I can get new bushings. Anyway doing it yourself is a great way to learn something new.

 

Last question 4 know, can I rig up the ac idle up and have the weber as well?:burnout:

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Ok can see how to get emulsion tubes out, is there anything else to be aware of when cleaning (hidden filters)?, they seem pretty simple carbs really which is nice.

 

Not that I can think of.

 

Where would the return barb go? On the top cover opposite the fuel inlet?

 

It replaces the inlet - the Hitachi one should have a large inlet, and a smaller return pipe to release pump pressure when the float is closed.

 

Last question 4 know, can I rig up the ac idle up and have the weber as well?:burnout:

 

You can do anything if you want it bad enough. I made the one on my EA82 work with some washers, and a bit of cutting and moving things around.

 

GD

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Well - if you installed the Weber in the same basic config as the Hitachi, then the idle up should be to the right of the carb attached to the manifold. You will have to "adjust" the mounting so that it can actuate the lever as it was originally intended to do. I used some washers under the bracket, and I did some cutting to the mounting holes on the bracket so the solenoid would move up a bit more. A also welded a bolt to the arm of the solenoid to get it futher forward and to the left so it hits the throttle arm correctly.

 

GD

 

 

That is from another thread that came up recently... figured I would save him the re typing. :grin: this WAS an ea82 install that he was talking about.. should they be the same?

 

clicky for the thread from which that statement was gank'ed.

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Thanks Jim, Yep I did see your stuff. I have to get a whole new shaft cause some dufous welded the throttle linkage to the shaft, the carby shop are rebushing it for me, but is great idea to get rid of wobble, I reckon it's half the problems people have with a 'bad' carby after a rebuild Hitachi or weber, get them rebushed.

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