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Posted 19 November 2003 - 01:14 PM
I had this problem once before and it came right by itself but it seems to be stuck this time.
Any one know of a quick fix.
If I bridge the contact (to force the compressor on) will it clear it?
Posted 19 November 2003 - 06:34 PM
I suppose you could bridge the switch, but I'd want to make sure my pressures are good first.....also you can cause some bad issues if your pressures rise too high and the switch isn't hooked up.
Posted 19 November 2003 - 08:58 PM
Thanks for your reply. Yes replacing the switch would be good. I have had the connector off and checked the switch continuity and it is definitely open when it should be closed to pull in the compressor clutch. I was hoping that if I kicked the compressor over it may free the switch up.
I am surprised about your suggestion that it may be possible to replace it without depressurising. Have you any more info on this aspect.
Posted 19 November 2003 - 09:17 PM
Possibly what has happened, is that you lost enough refrigerant, to cause this switch to not close. This is to protect the compressor, because if the compressor runs with not enough refrigerant, it also doesn’t get enough oil.
Usually, the O-rings in the connections get hard, and no longer seal. So check your pressures, or have the system evacuated at a shop, then you can replace the O-rings your self, and have the shop recharge it.
If the switch is indeed bad, I'm pretty sure you can just unscrew it and screw on the new one. They screw onto a shrader valve, which is the same valve that tire stems have in them.
So...if the car is more then 3-4 years old, I would suspect bad O-rings, and if it were me, I'd replace them.
First step is to check your pressures, either by buying an AC pressure tester (ie manifold gauges) or take it to the shop and have them check it. If the pressure is ok, then swap the switch...if the pressure is low, they can probably just top it off, and you'll be good for a couple more years...
Hope that helps more then confuses...
Posted 19 November 2003 - 11:24 PM
I was shopping round for a pressure switch and got on to an AC workshop and they told me that the switch was for low refrigerant pressure, from leaking.
The same thing happened last year at this time but it came right and I used the AC all last summer so I guess the refrigerant has slowly leaked out.
I was interested to hear about the O rings. That piece of information will be of use when I take it into the AC workshop.
The system still has the original refrigerant. R16 isn't it. Will they top that up or replace it with the latest version.
Posted 20 November 2003 - 01:09 AM
If it's older then 1994(I think) it should have R12, which has since been outlawed, and is no longer made.
If it's newer then that, it should have R134A. They can top off an R134A system, but not an R12 system. If it's an R12 system, DO NOT let them talk you into using a "drop in" replacement. These are bad, and some are even made with propane...not something I want under my hood.
If it IS an R12 system, it's not hard to switch over to R134A, you have to make sure you get all the old oil out, and change the rubber lines over to barrier type. Then, get the new O-rings, reassemble the system, and charge with R134A, up to the right pressure, and you should be fine.
Posted 20 November 2003 - 01:46 AM
It is 1993 model and will have the R12 for sure. I know its history from new and it has had nothing done to the AC.
Ok I will be aware about a Drop in unit
Thanks for telling me about the hoses and the oil. So far I reckon it sounds like about $100 for hoses, $20 for oil and say 2 hours $150 coming to say $300. I suppose there is a shaft seal is that likely to need replacing?
Posted 20 November 2003 - 04:31 AM
Although, since you will have the system empty anyway, you might as well replace it.
Posted 24 November 2003 - 07:49 PM
The estimate was for labour $220, oil and O rings $18.5, Evacuate and charge to 134A $100, Denso drier $79, Shaft seal TV12C/14C Carbon $73.48, Gasket set ND TV12/TV14/C $66.12,TX valve Block n/Denso R12 $107.32, Retrofit adaptors $15.95 and with $87.13 tax this comes to $784.
The DENSO Tx valve aparantley leak at the thread. Can this be sealed somehow without having to buy a new one? What prices do you guys pay for this stuff?
Posted 11 January 2004 - 07:55 AM
I have my own evecuation system, so I've no idea if $100 is right for that.
My drier only cost me $38, I didn't do my shaft seal, my O-ring set came with 2 O-rings that go into the weird fittings where the hoses connect to the compressor.
However, this is all pertaining to my 86 XT, which probably has a different compressor. I got retro fit adaptors at Wal-Mart for like $3
Posted 11 January 2004 - 02:12 PM
Posted 11 January 2004 - 06:40 PM
www.acsource.com has some too.
I bought a $9.99 o-ring kit from Harbor Freight, but I certainly won't be using any of those on an A/C system.
I can't decide if I should buy the specific ones for the vehicles and just change them all, or buy an assorment that would cover both vehicles.
I am preparing to do flush, oil, replace receiver/dryer, vacuum, and charge on both of our cars, so this is some good reading.
Posted 11 January 2004 - 09:51 PM
Posted 11 January 2004 - 11:11 PM
Posted 12 January 2004 - 12:01 AM
Posted 12 January 2004 - 08:50 AM
Posted 13 January 2004 - 08:37 PM
My problem is the compressor. You can get them in the USA for $200 os less. Here in NZ they are about US$500. I bet I can get shipping for less than us$300.
As for the refrigerant and valve I am going to try to buy a part used cylinder form a AC tech. The small cans here are about $US24 each instead of the price you guys pay arround $5 I believe
How are you going to get on with vacuuming again Josh or have you got a pump now?
Posted 13 January 2004 - 09:23 PM
I picked up a used compressor on ebay for $105 for the outback. It was in really nice shape, from an '01 forester.
A good ac vacuum pump can be had here for around $200. I have seen some used ones go on ebay for around $100. I am trying to talk my stepdad out of 1 of his 6 spare vacuum pumps.
Posted 13 January 2004 - 10:23 PM
So my belief is that as long as it is vacuumed with a good pump for say 1/2 hour it should be OK. It would be a good idea to fit a vacuum gauge to check that the vacuum goes to 50 microns to confirm this belief.
I like your idea of how to get a vacuum pump. If my grandad had not died 60 years ago I would take a look in his workshop but I doubt he would have 6 spare pumps. Ha.
Posted 14 January 2004 - 10:44 AM
If I swap things again, I'll have to get it vacuumed out. I have a buddy at a shop, so he really doesn't charge me much to do it. I suppose I could get a pump, but by the time I get gauges & a pump.....I could have let him do it several times.
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