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Loyale Starts but stalls immediately. NEEED HELP!!


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13 replies to this topic

#1 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 12:17 PM

Yea so I turn the key the engine revs to about 1K and immediately shuts down.

If I give it gas nothing happens, the only way that I can keep it running is if I QUICKLY pump the gas pedal. Once the RPM's get up past 4500K it runs fine(but only at high rpms)

PS- The car's exhaust system is practically non existant-it has soooo many leaks. It is loud as hell.


The rest of the story-

The car has been running badly for the last month or so(stumbles + misses, low power) but I haven't had the time/lazy to check it out, so as im driving one night the car rpms just stop moving up if I give it any gas and they drop causing me to go over to the side of the road, this is where it starts doing what i mentioned above, after about 3-5 min. of pumping the gas it runs good enough to drive home.

So the next day it runs ************ty(but still runs) so I drive it, and at that afternoon it dies again and I can't get it to start. Finally after pumping the gas it runs so terrible but i drive it home anyway because i had no choice.


Now IDK what to do, but Ive already missed one day of school so I need to fix it ASAP.

Im gonna go and check some basic things right now.......

#2 RdNkBrt

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 12:20 PM

maybe the carb? Sounds like what mine was doing... bad carb and a sticky choke

#3 Skip

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 12:34 PM

Since our man does not grace us with
the year, model, or fuel system type---

I guess we guess?

The SPFI system on his car can have a labyrinth of
problems causing his malady.

The first thing that comes to mind on an engine
as poorly maintained as this, is the connection pipe
from the MAF to the intake is cracked or loose.

A fuel filter is on the list but the fact it .......

After that a guess is only a guess.

#4 nvexplorer

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 01:29 PM

Have you gotten any trouble codes from the ECU? The only time my 93 Loyale gives me trouble where I have to pump the gas to keep it going is when it is really cold outside. Apparently my IAC doesn't like the cold since that is the code I get, but the code clears and it runs fine after everything has warmed up. Could be one of your problems.

#5 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 02:11 PM

Yea, it is a 93 Loyale 4wd pushbutton manual.

Ive been checking around, and;

Plugs are good, wires IDK?, cap and rotor looks ok?, fuel filter is good, after looking at my MAF sensor there was a piece of filter paper on it? so I look at my air filter and there is a ************ing HOLE in it?!? the size of a golf ball!

So Im guessing something got sucked into the intake/carb thingy(its SPFI but i cant remember the name of it lol) So im about to go look into that....



And I got the IAC code a week ago briefly, but havent seen the code yet since then?

#6 hatchsub

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 02:31 PM

These engines also rely on backpressure. If you got a tone of leaks and its very loud im sure thats not helping matters. Im not saying this is your whole problem but its probably contributing to it.

#7 robm

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 04:46 PM

The chunk of filter on the MAF would probably account for the engine dieing the way it did. Have you tried it with the MAF clear, and a new filter?

#8 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 05:25 PM

Make sure the MAF's bypass port isn't clogged. No air will flow over the MAF element and the engine will die out as the computer attempts to compensate for the incorrect airflow reading.

Your ability to run the engine at WOT is because the MAF is ignored at WOT. That's a good reason to suspect issues with the MAF - most especially oil or other gunk clogging the bypass port. MAF's rarely fail, but people often think they have failed because the bypass is clogged and replacing the whole unit fixes the problem.

GD

#9 daeron

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 05:45 PM

Make sure the MAF's bypass port isn't clogged. No air will flow over the MAF element and the engine will die out as the computer attempts to compensate for the incorrect airflow reading.

Your ability to run the engine at WOT is because the MAF is ignored at WOT. That's a good reason to suspect issues with the MAF - most especially oil or other gunk clogging the bypass port. MAF's rarely fail, but people often think they have failed because the bypass is clogged and replacing the whole unit fixes the problem.

GD

the MAF is also easily removed from its housing, but BE CAREFUL with it. It consists of two little hot wires that are very delicate.. not incredibly easy to destroy, but fragile nevertheless. Just unplug the sensor, and undo the two phillips head screws holding it in.

Get a can of QD electrical cleaner, and clean the heck outta the thing.

Also, go to the USRM and read up on how to put your ECU into "D-check" mode and run the onboard diagnostic. That always help give you some more info.

While I am at it, in what way did you confirm that the fuel filter was "good?" They only cost like, $10 and its never a bad idea to replace it.

#10 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 06:49 PM

the MAF is also easily removed from its housing, but BE CAREFUL with it. It consists of two little hot wires that are very delicate.. not incredibly easy to destroy, but fragile nevertheless. Just unplug the sensor, and undo the two phillips head screws holding it in.

Get a can of QD electrical cleaner, and clean the heck outta the thing.

Also, go to the USRM and read up on how to put your ECU into "D-check" mode and run the onboard diagnostic. That always help give you some more info.

While I am at it, in what way did you confirm that the fuel filter was "good?" They only cost like, $10 and its never a bad idea to replace it.


I replaced it 4 months ago. The engine runs poorly now(same as it was with the misfiring+stumbling), but at least it runs and is drivable. I have a feeling it is the cap and rotor. The contacts on the cap have little ridges worn on all of them, and the rotor has a lil bit of corrosion on the tip of it. Im gonna run to the parts store and pick up a new air filter, cap+rotor, and maybe plug wires. I might as well get them I guess....

The engine is lacking power/acceleration badly....

#11 daeron

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 07:36 PM

I replaced it 4 months ago.

Okay, just had to check. All you said was that it was fine.. :grin:


I have a feeling it is the cap and rotor. The contacts on the cap have little ridges worn on all of them, and the rotor has a lil bit of corrosion on the tip of it. Im gonna run to the parts store and pick up a new air filter, cap+rotor, and maybe plug wires. I might as well get them I guess....

The engine is lacking power/acceleration badly....


Run the D-check mode. And replace your cap and rotor. Before you buy a new one, though, make sure that, if it is needed, the screw in the back of the rotor is there. (sorry for all those commas) Some rotors have them, some do not.. if you can see a hole for a screw and there is no screw, i think we have found your problem.

If all this doesnt work, then I have a question for you.. before the car started acting really really bad, did it have strange acceleration properties? Did you sometimes seem to have "blind spots" in your gas pedal? theres a chance that your Throttle Position Sensor is going bad. This is a potentiometer that is connected directly to the throttle plate.. Picture a volume knob that tells the computer how far open the throttle is.

Sometimes these "volume knobs" get bad spots in them, just like on a stereo. You ever hear a stereo that would crackle as you turned it up, and have spots where you couldnt leave the volume? same kinda problem. Its a stab in the dark, but there is a testing procedure for it.. I think i have that page out of the FSM somewhere, if youd like.

it requires a good volt-Ohmmeter and a set of feeler gauges to calibrate it properly, but to check and see if yours is OK then all you need to do is check for a given resistance between two terminals at no throttle, and at wide open throttle, then check that the resistance between two terminals gradually and smoothly increases as you gradually and smoothly depress the pedal.. simple enough.

#12 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:11 PM

CAP AND PLUG WIRES AND AIR FILTER (they needed to order the rotor) FIXED THE PROBLEM!!! YAYYY!!!!

THANKS 4 DA HELP!

Now alls I need is a new exhaust!(and a radio)

I learned my lesson;

They have suggested times to replace worn out parts for a reason, use them.

And my other one was;

Don't try and drive it to see if it fixes itself, you must fix it yourself.

#13 DaveT

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:11 PM

These engines also rely on backpressure.


Not enough to make these problems. Recently I drove my 90 EA82 SPFI with only the header / y pipe. No preceptible difference in performance. Sure, it was LOUD. (The flange on the 2nd cat rotted off on the way to work)

#14 daeron

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 10:23 PM

Not enough to make these problems. Recently I drove my 90 EA82 SPFI with only the header / y pipe. No preceptible difference in performance. Sure, it was LOUD. (The flange on the 2nd cat rotted off on the way to work)



gotta love the open pipe ea82 sound.... its the only soob motor ive heard unfettered, yet...

then again, my geo storm sounded pretty mean sans exhaust, too.. :rolleyes:




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