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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Brumby conversion: EJ22, hybrid AWD center lock, SUCCESS!!!


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166 replies to this topic

#51 86BRATMAN

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Posted 03 March 2007 - 02:14 PM

IIRC the nissan pulsar's my buddy has have plastic end tanks on them

#52 Phizinza

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Posted 03 March 2007 - 08:46 PM

can't you cut off the filler neck and have a shop weld it back somewhere?
edit: Owh, I forgot something important... Awesome work! :banana:

IIRC the nissan pulsar's my buddy has have plastic end tanks on them

Sadly this is the truth.. I am now looking at just making room for the EJ radiator or finding some adaptors to fit my EA one back in. I do like the alloy radiators a LOT more.

Cheers, I just wish I had the motivation to finish it off sooner then later. But it's just really getting on my nerves how everything isn't working out first go. I'll get over it and hopefully work on it a lot this week... I'm still working on that stupid fuel setup. I really want a surge tank, hmm, ebay.....

#53 86BRATMAN

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Posted 03 March 2007 - 10:10 PM

If you find a good surge tank let me know. I'm not having any luck with it at all

#54 thatswhatshesaid

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 02:49 PM

Nice...this should earn you some respect points fo' sho.

Someone upgrade his membership for a sweet writeup.

#55 carfreak85

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 03:36 PM

So was there any difficulty in installing the EA gear stuff in the EJ box? Any grinding or silly things like that? I don't think I'm going to do anything like that, but I will be diving into a gearbox and swapping some gears around(3.9 gears into an RX box with 1.5 low range). I just need the voice of experience from someone whos been inside a gear box.

#56 Phizinza

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 05:33 PM

So was there any difficulty in installing the EA gear stuff in the EJ box? Any grinding or silly things like that? I don't think I'm going to do anything like that, but I will be diving into a gearbox and swapping some gears around(3.9 gears into an RX box with 1.5 low range). I just need the voice of experience from someone whos been inside a gear box.

The problem that we've explained in other threads about changing the diff ratio with a RX (center diff lock) box is the pinion shaft is a 3.7. And the pinion gear is part of the shaft. You would have to be a BLOODY good welder to put a 3.9 or 4.11 pinion gear on the pinion shaft.. Swapping the low range in the EJ box required a detent to be welded up on the EA82 shift fork as you can see. This makes sure the gear stays in. This is because the EA82's low range detent is in the back section with the 4WD selector. Which I think if you want 3.9 you are going to have to use the PT4WD rear end of the box. I don't know what the RX gearbox has for a detent on the low range shift fork as I have not seen a RX casing, my diff locker box had already been merged with PT box. I have seen people with PT 5spds and dual lever (for lo hi) and they don't have problems with it slipping out of Low range. So The detent may not be needed, who knows..

I already have a upgraded membership, I donated :grin:

#57 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 12:54 AM

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SHE RUNNNNNNNNSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!


After 3 hours of trouble shooting the loom, she RUNS! WOOOOO HOO :banana::banana::banana::grin::grin: * * :lol:


The problem was in the sheiding lines for the gray cables that go between the ECU and major engine componets..
When I done the loom ages ago, I must of taped the sheid GRD (ground) wire into the Ingition switch wire. Stupid me. But After 4 fuses and the 3 hours, it goes.. And runs sweet. I'll post back in a bit with photos, and then VIDEO of the very first try and start of the BEAUTY!

#58 86BRATMAN

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 12:58 AM

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SHE RUNNNNNNNNSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!


After 3 hours of trouble shooting the loom, she RUNS! WOOOOO HOO :banana::banana::banana::grin::grin: * * :lol:


The problem was in the sheiding lines for the gray cables that go between the ECU and major engine componets..
When I done the loom ages ago, I must of taped the sheid GRD (ground) wire into the Ingition switch wire. Stupid me. But After 4 fuses and the 3 hours, it goes.. And runs sweet. I'll post back in a bit with photos, and then VIDEO of the very first try and start of the BEAUTY!


Hell Yeah man. Congrats.

#59 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:06 AM

Hell Yeah man. Congrats.

Hell yeah indeed!!! I'm so relieved!


http://offroadingsub...iring_test1.jpg
http://offroadingsub...iring_test2.jpg
Heres the wiring. Next steps are:
weld EA82 throttle pedal to fit EA81 pedal box,
fit pedal box,
Clean up wiring loom and fit,
install original EA81 radiator, which requires some welding to the front chassis beem,
weld old exhaust pipe to new flange and bolt on,
fit pod filter,
fit all interior stuff, dash stuff, seats, etc,
new switch and wiring for diff locker,
... The list goes on! I'm hoping to get it all done before next weeked though.

#60 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:28 AM

Video is encoding.....

Heres what I have done for the rest of the fuel lines.
I used one of the vent hoses, the one that vents into the top of the vent box in the rear gaurd. And I used the original fuel return hose. So this gives me a 3mm tube and a 6mm tube to return from the engine. And as I said earlier I also ran a new return hose to where the pump is from under the hood. This is just a rubber EFI grade pipe which runs under the door trim.
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines4.jpg
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines5.jpg
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines6.jpg
The vent hose I done, as you can see in pic fuel_lines4 I have a T piece and then it runs a rubber pipe into a hard line. This hard line is from the original EA81 carbon canister vent from the front of the car, just cut off the smaller pipes and zip-tied it in next to the tank.

I have also fit the EA81 pedal box with the EA82 clutch cable so it reaches the 5sp's clutch lever (I think this is only a problem for RHD cars.)
http://offroadingsub...bleandpedal.jpg

#61 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:32 AM

http://offroadingsub...ads/it_runs.wmv


VIDEO! :clap:

Lovin it... Can't wait to drive it..

I just happen to have my Brother and his mate working on a snorkle for a Subie and my dad as spectators!

#62 Numbchux

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:33 AM

AWESOME!!! :banana: :banana:

great feeling isn't it?

#63 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:39 AM

... Just amazing... I really didn't think it was going to run.

I really under estimated myself.
It's the first engine change in a car I have ever done or been part of that wasn't just another engine of the same type.

I am a bit worried that I cut half the diagnostic stuff out of the loom, but i guess I'll cross that road when I need to.

The two plugs by the ECU with single wires only get plugged together when you want to read the codes right? Is there any harm in plugging them in and leaving it like that? Mine are currently unplugged.

#64 86BRATMAN

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:40 AM

Sounds good and strong. I can't wait to see some vids of it in action

#65 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:42 AM

I can't wait to see some vids of it in action

Sand drifting baby... YEAH BABY, YEAH!!!
:grin:

#66 86BRATMAN

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:45 AM

Sand drifting baby... YEAH BABY, YEAH!!!
:grin:


You may see a vid or two from me at a drag strip if I ever get done...:grin:

Only thing with those wires is that i'll be trying to constantly flash the ecs light at you, if thats what you have the cel wired to, or wired at all.

#67 Phizinza

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 01:53 AM

if thats what you have the cel wired to, or wired at all.

I'm going to have to look for that wire... :o I never remembered it!
Any idea what pin out it is on the ECU?? :)

#68 86BRATMAN

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Posted 06 March 2007 - 09:13 PM

I'm going to have to look for that wire... :o I never remembered it!
Any idea what pin out it is on the ECU?? :)


D19 if I'm following it correctly.

#69 s'ko

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:55 AM

Video is encoding.....

Heres what I have done for the rest of the fuel lines.
I used one of the vent hoses, the one that vents into the top of the vent box in the rear gaurd. And I used the original fuel return hose. So this gives me a 3mm tube and a 6mm tube to return from the engine. And as I said earlier I also ran a new return hose to where the pump is from under the hood. This is just a rubber EFI grade pipe which runs under the door trim.
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines4.jpg
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines5.jpg
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines6.jpg
The vent hose I done, as you can see in pic fuel_lines4 I have a T piece and then it runs a rubber pipe into a hard line. This hard line is from the original EA81 carbon canister vent from the front of the car, just cut off the smaller pipes and zip-tied it in next to the tank.


I am having a little trouble understanding what you did. There might be something lost in the Australian English - American English reading.
From the pictures it you put the T near the gas tank.
What do you mean by the "rear guard"
From the pics it looks like the pump is in the stock location. is there also a pump near the engine?
Anyways CONGRATS on your start up. I hope to post about my start up this weekend.:banana:

#70 Phizinza

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:24 PM

There is a fuel/vent separation box in the back of the car, in the right hand gaurd right next to the filler (this is with both wagons and Brats, not sure on others.) This has two vent pipes from the tank that go into the tank right next to each other. One is to vent to the top of the vent box, and the other lets any liquid fuel flow back into the tank. Then from the vent box the thrid goes from that box all the way to the engine bay and into the charcol canister (this pipe passes right by the fuel pump.) I left that alone as I want to be nice on the environment and vent my vapors properly. But what I done was use the tank to top of vent box pipe as a fuel return in conjuncting with the original tiny fuel return line. Not as good as a 8mm line, but a 3mm plus 6mm line should do it. The T piece lets the hose return the fuel to both the original return place and one of the vent places. I am hoping that the vent will work ok using only the drain back pipe in the vent box.

Good luck on your first start up! :)

#71 Phizinza

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:36 PM

Alright.. So after all those questions about wiring and getting my loom ready to my installed into the car here is the first stage I done yesterday.

http://offroadingsub...om_install1.jpg
http://offroadingsub...om_install2.jpg

I pushed it through the left hand side rubber grommet which wasn't in uses (keep in mind that this is a RHD car.. so passenger side for me.) I then mounted the ECU right where the air vent pipe goes :mad: stupid me. But I could not find a better place so I made some slight adjustments to the fan air vent pipe.

http://offroadingsub...p_ecu_mount.jpg
http://offroadingsub...cu_airvent1.jpg
http://offroadingsub...cu_airvent2.jpg

Then I installed the relays onto the side of the car.
http://offroadingsub...om_install4.jpg

And after all that I spent another hour trying to fit that bloody fan box back in! :Flame: That thing is a nightmare...
http://offroadingsub...om_install3.jpg

Also I found that my EA81dc's oil pressure sender will bolt into the EJ's block.. This means I new fitting on the wire and I'll have my original gauge working! :grin:
http://offroadingsub...sure_sender.jpg


And of cause, I made way for some wires and maybe a overflow bottle by cutting out the jack bracket. I have also mounted my ignitor just above where the bracket once sat, right next to my Liberty/Legacy fuel filter. I'll get a picture of that when I put the engine bay side of the loom in.
http://offroadingsub...ack_bracket.jpg

I also have painted where the jack bracket was black to prevent rust.

Still lots more to do. then :burnout:

#72 86BRATMAN

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:37 PM

That box is held up by the 2 10mm bolts through the bedside isn't it. I Remember seeing it now that I think back to undercoating the insides in my brat

#73 Phizinza

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:58 PM

That box is held up by the 2 10mm bolts through the bedside isn't it. I Remember seeing it now that I think back to undercoating the insides in my brat

It was two philps head screws on my Brat.
I pulled one out of my wrecked wagon and cut it open to make sure it wasn't anything special. I'll try my best at some text art to describe it.

...........................tank vent.............
........_______________||____............
.......|................................|............
.......|...............|................|............
.......|...............|................|............
.......|...............|................|............
.......|...............|................|............
.......|...............|................|............
.......|____|| ___|_____||___|............
.....canister vent - fuel drain back vent..

Mack sense? All the vapour goes into that box, then the liquid splits and goes back into the tank while the vapour goes inthe to canister under the hood, which *should* end up going into your intake via a vacuum hose while your car is running..

#74 Phizinza

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 12:22 AM

Ok.. Now I have an alternator question. In my car I have a plug with a large white wire and a small white/red wire. Along with the large white that bolts to the alt. On the new loom, the alt has two large white wires that bolt to it together. And the plug has three wires, 1 big white, 1 small black/red and 1 yellow. I'm guessing the black/red wire has to go to the dash for the alt light and the whites all just go to the battery. But... what's this yellow? Where should it go? no where?

Also how did people splice the alts wiring to the chassis wiring? I can't solder it as it seems to big and I don't think crimps are going to be good enough. I'm thinking of a screw connector now, I'll have to see what I have in the shed.

#75 86BRATMAN

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 12:30 AM

Ok.. Now I have an alternator question. In my car I have a plug with a large white wire and a small white/red wire. Along with the large white that bolts to the alt. On the new loom, the alt has two large white wires that bolt to it together. And the plug has three wires, 1 big white, 1 small black/red and 1 yellow. I'm guessing the black/red wire has to go to the dash for the alt light and the whites all just go to the battery. But... what's this yellow? Where should it go? no where?

Also how did people splice the alts wiring to the chassis wiring? I can't solder it as it seems to big and I don't think crimps are going to be good enough. I'm thinking of a screw connector now, I'll have to see what I have in the shed.


I was looking at that the other day on mine. One of the big whites looks to go to the fuse box for chassis electrical and the other looked like it went to all the crap for the legacy a/c system. Not sure on the yellow's function, but after I cut out the a/c relays and stuff it went nowhere




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