Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Ball Joint Replacement
Posted 20 November 2003 - 12:00 PM
Posted 20 November 2003 - 01:27 PM
Posted 20 November 2003 - 02:22 PM
i never had any luck with the ball joint tool.
a 4 pound hammer helps too.
Posted 20 November 2003 - 03:54 PM
I already had to drill thru two of them one on my Loyale and one on my Legacy. But maybe rust has thrown a curse on me.
Posted 20 November 2003 - 05:35 PM
you can thread the nut on backward to protect the thread.
you can use a long bar or a 2x4 to push the lower control arm down away from the ball joint.
the top of the ball joint fits into the knuckle, clamped in by a 14mm bolt. you can remove that end first if you chose to do so
Posted 20 November 2003 - 06:05 PM
Posted 20 November 2003 - 06:13 PM
Posted 20 November 2003 - 07:39 PM
Posted 22 November 2003 - 01:05 AM
Posted 23 November 2003 - 12:09 PM
I am having the devil of a time getting the blasted ball joint out of my steering knuckle....any tricks to this besides a BFH?
tried to make a puller but the bolt shaft turns, it is out about 4 mm, I am thinking of penetrating oil all over it and bash it back in, and then try to pull it out. Tried heat, screwdriver in the clamp slot, etc....
Brian, I did get my axle in!! thanks for the tips.
but that ball joint is fscked, and now i am not rolling.
Posted 23 November 2003 - 02:37 PM
The pinch bolt should never be a problem to take of (well if you Anti-seized the top of the ball joint the last time you changed it..)
I've also used a big tuning fork and a BFH before to get one off.
Another way if the stud is really rusted in there, grab a sawzall cuz the stud flush with the bottom of the control arm and grab a drill and drill have b!tch outta there
case of beer
both disturbed CD's
Posted 23 November 2003 - 03:07 PM
Sticky greenies, great tip!
anyway, i soaked it in penetrating oil before knocking off last night, and then went out there this am, 30 degrees! and heated the steering knuckle, tapped the ball joint back in a wee bit, pried it out, tapped in, etc. repeat 5 times, grab with the tool of tools, a big visegrip, and twist.
what a pain! I think I will wait a bit on the other side. but it is all done, much better steering, and no grinding axle.
Posted 23 November 2003 - 03:11 PM
get guys do a search for wrc2002 videos and wrc2001 videos in yahoo..
Gotta check out those videos.. They are awesome. They are like 12 meg downloads
Posted 23 November 2003 - 03:14 PM
All I can tell you is what I did when I had that same problem (once with my Loyale and once with the Legacy)
Beside what you're already doing,
1) find something heaftier than a screwdrive to open that part of the knuckle that holds the joint. I used something resembling a small crow bar.
2) take a metal chisel and use it with a medium size hammer to hit downward on the part of the joint that's already out of the knuckle.
In my case, it was a mixture of things like these that finally succeded.
Posted 23 November 2003 - 06:02 PM
As far as the other end goes, i.e. the tapered stud that is threaded, a small "puller" works fine. Note, although I called it a puller, it actually pushes the stud out. Pickle fork works fine to, but will damage the ball joint (which is usually not an issue). If it's really stuck, get the pickle fork jammed into it so there's tension on it, then, . . . either heat it a bit . . . or take two hammers and rap on both sides of the casting holding the stud . . .i.e. both hammers' aiming at each other. The shock will usually release it. I reassemble all parts with Never-Seize. Makes things much easier the next time.
My Subaru fleet: 12 4WD Loyales wagon in my field (1985-1993) along with an 88 Justy 4WD. I just junked two 84s with the pushrod engines. Also, on the road, an 87 4WD Loyale wagon automatic, a 92 Loyale 4WD wagon 5 speed, and an 89 4WD Justy. In my barn I have complete drivetrains from four 1985 Loyale 4WD wagons with the hi-low. I really miss having a wagon on the road with the hi-low. Snow gets deep coming up a steep hill, I have to slip the clutch to get going from a stop. Never had to do that with the dual-range.
Also have some full-size 4WDs; 83 diesel Blazer, 86 diesel Blazer, 87 diesel Suburban, 89 diesel Suburban, 69 Dodge Power-Wagon and a 94 AWD Astrovan. Hate to admit it, but the Subarus will go places the big vehicles won't when things are real slippery. Same goes for stopping. And . . . the Justy will go places the Loyale wagons won't.
Posted 02 September 2004 - 03:46 PM
Warning! This procedure could be dangerous if you don't jack and chock your vehicle correctly or if you are strong enough to lift your Soob. Do not attempt this unless you are sure you can perform it safely. Your safety is your responsibility!
After getting the front end on jack stands and removing the front wheels:
1. Remove both pinch bolts.
2. Stick the nozzle of a penetrating fluid can into the pinch slot and spray generously.
3. Turn the steering wheel full right.
4. Using a hammer tap a 1/4" Craftsman cold chisel into the pinch slot until it bottoms out onto the current ball joint's head.
6. Turn the steering wheel back to center.
7. Carefully place a floorjack under the right rotor and jack up the wheel assembly to take weight off of the control arm and stabilizer bar. Make sure you don't lift the car off of the jack stands.
8. Tap down on the edges of the control arm with a hammer to break the ball joint loose from the steering knuckle.
9. Lever a short (12") pry bar between the steering knuckle and control arm with the head of the pry bar pointing to the front of the vehicle.
10. Stand up and place your right foot on the head of the pry bar and your hands under the lip at the top of the wheel well.
11. Close your eyes, make an ugly face and push down with your right foot for all you're worth.
12. Repeat steps 8 - 11 until the head pops out of the steering knuckle.
13. Repeat for left side turning wheel full left instead of full right.
14. To remove the ball joint from the control arm I use a jaw type ball joint remover. After trying in vain with various pullers, and unwilling to trash the boots with my pneumatic fork I finally succeeded with a Tie Rod/Ball Joint Lifter identical to this one:
This thing is definitely worth the price. It will pop a ball joint out in a matter of a few quick turns of a wrench and spare you the possible front end damage of the aforementioned "BFH"
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users