6 replies to this topic

[mikeshoup]

So I set out today to do a brake job... ended up being more than I expected. Have to replace a rear wheel cylinder. I've come across a snag:

I can't remove the brake line from the cylinder! Someone before me completely rounded off the nut... I tried sticking my flare wrench over it, and it just spins around it. I can't get good enough grip with my vices...

So what do I do now? And once I get it off, how do I fix this for the future?

Thanks

[nipper]

So I set out today to do a brake job... ended up being more than I expected. Have to replace a rear wheel cylinder. I've come across a snag:

I can't remove the brake line from the cylinder! Someone before me completely rounded off the nut... I tried sticking my flare wrench over it, and it just spins around it. I can't get good enough grip with my vices...

So what do I do now? And once I get it off, how do I fix this for the future?

Thanks

There is an old tool i use for that. I have a spring loaded plier, resembles a plumber tool that is great for soft nuts.
Your going to have to use vice grips, some nut buster, and prbabably will have to replace that line (if your planning on keeping the car till the next break job)

nipper

[daeron]

You need to replace this brake line. Thats basically a no-brainer, but I say that having "coped" with, and reinstalling, a brake line like this before

That being the case, the simplest method would be to cut the rubber hose, remove the wheel cylinder, and use a vise to remove the mangled fitting.

however, once you start thinking about the fact that really, you need to replace this line ANYhow.. removing it becomes alot easier, because you aren't as worried about not destroying it

[Skip]

Mike if you still have this problem and have not
taken drastic measures yet.

The line and the jam nut are frozen to the cyl.

The best way I have found is to rotate the line and the jam
nut or hold them and rotate the cyl.

Sometimes if you remove the bolts that hold the cyl to the backing plate then loosen the clamp on the brake line, you can feed the line with cyl still attached into a position where
you can hold the jam nut and rotate the cyl.

After the rubber parts are removed you can heat the cyl.

Antisieze will prtevent this from happening again.

Hope this helps.

[mikeshoup]

Sometimes if you remove the bolts that hold the cyl to the backing plate then loosen the clamp on the brake line, you can feed the line with cyl still attached into a position where
you can hold the jam nut and rotate the cyl.

This is actually what I did. It took some strong vice grips, and PB Blaster, but it broke loose. Once it broke loose, there's enough of the nut to get my pipe wrench around it.

For now, I just coated it in anti-sieze and got it on there as tight as I could without further rounding the nut. Doesn't leak, so I hope I'm good... for now.

Daeron: Cutting the rubber line wasn't viable, the line going to the drum is metal.

[TomRhere]

You've fixed it but,

I have a 4" pair of vise-grips that really work well on FUBARED brake fittings. Nice to have in the toolbox and they come in handy for other jobs as well.

[daeron]

Daeron: Cutting the rubber line wasn't viable, the line going to the drum is metal.

Well, we can tell who hasnt done his rear brakes in a while (me)