WoodsWagon Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I'm seting up dual batterys to run my winch. For isolation, i'm using a starter soleniod from a ford ranger. I'm wondering if the soleniods windings will be up to continuous duty. I'd like to tie it to the ignition so that it would charge when the engine was running, but I'm not sure if it would cook the windings. It pulls 3.5A to keep it closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 A standard solenoid will cook in short order, you want a continuous duty solenoid, if your auto parts store doesn't have one they can order you one. Make it switchable, and use a diode (from a RV dealer) to handle the charging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I got lots of good information in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60711&highlight=dual+battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I would use a dual battery isolator, This allows for curretn to be pulled from one battery, and cgarges both while running. It wont pull current from the main battery. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 11, 2007 Author Share Posted February 11, 2007 I'll get a better solenoid soon. Money is kinda tight, so I'll leave this solenoid in so that I can jump start the car off it's self and use the winch. Charging will have to be done from a wall outlet for now. Isolators=money, which I don't have. <20 is all I can afford. The battery tray I made is probably stronger than the body it's bolting too. I'm fiting the battery in where the turbo would go on turbo subarus. It interferes with an A/C line, a brake line, the power steering hoses, and one of the PCV nipples on the air duct. Everything except the PCV nipple can be (and has been) bent out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I'll get a better solenoid soon. Money is kinda tight, so I'll leave this solenoid in so that I can jump start the car off it's self and use the winch. Charging will have to be done from a wall outlet for now. Isolators=money, which I don't have. <20 is all I can afford. The battery tray I made is probably stronger than the body it's bolting too. I'm fiting the battery in where the turbo would go on turbo subarus. It interferes with an A/C line, a brake line, the power steering hoses, and one of the PCV nipples on the air duct. Everything except the PCV nipple can be (and has been) bent out of the way. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2006117/p-2006117/N-111+600010098/c-10107 21.00 plus shipping 70 amps should be fine for what your using the battery for. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Thanks for that link. I think I'm going for the 120amp one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Some local snow plow types run dual alternators to keep the second battery completely isolated from their vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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