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1988 GL Wagon 4WD Issues


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Hello all,

 

I am a newbie, so if this topic has been discussed elsewhere, I'd appreciate it if you could point me in the right direction. I did some browsing but didn't find anything.

 

--

 

Anyhow, I have an '88 GL with 174k miles. It is running fine now, in 2WD. The snow is piling up and I want to be able to use 4WD - HI. I have tried to put it into 4WD mode with the car on a flat surface, engine running, in neutral, stopped. (Should I be using the clutch?) The dash acknowledges the change and shows me it is in 4WD. However, once I start moving, I hear all sorts of bad noises and feel some resistance driving. This was not encouraging, so I put the car back into 2WD. It was difficult to get it back into 2WD, and required me to put it into 4, then 2, and back a few times.

 

I got the car used, and I'm assuming 4WD was just not used for a long time, and that the parts are not lubricated, or something like this. Is this a common problem? Should I just stay in 2WD forever? If I run it in 4 for a mile or so will this go away (I'm a bit afraid to try this)? What should I do?

 

As a note, the transmission fluid was checked recently and was clean and full. Is there a separate fluid I should be checking?

 

Thanks,

 

_S

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I don't think that the subaru can loose lubrication when in 2wd. Unlike most 4wd's, the rear (equivalent to the front in most 4wds) driveline and differential still turn all the time -- no freewheeling hubs, so it would stay lubricated.

 

Make sure all the tires are the same, and don't put it in 4wd on pavement. If it gets stuck in 4wd (usually because I have to pull out onto a paved road while turning, but am turning from an icy road that I need it to be in 4 wheel drive in order to pull out), what I usually do is get my right wheels on an icy or gravel patch along the road while I'm coasting and pulse the brakes hard enough to momentarily skid one wheel while pushing the lever down. Usually goes right back into 2wd. If you take tight turns on pavement in 4wd, it can be a bear to get back in 2wd, and that's really not good for the drivetrain either.

 

I'd also look underneath and make sure everything looks okay - just to be sure. Usually you can feel the binding if in 4wd on pavement, but I've never heard noises.

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i say amen on the tire size as well.i have bought a subaru wagon with a "bad"tranny.only to notice different size tires.i put on new tires all the same size and it fixed the bad tranny.as far shifting out of 4x4 just go in a straight line for a short time and it should pop right out.the differnt size or even tread style can make shifting in or out very hard. good luck,todd

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Thank you all for the prompt responses.

 

I'm curious why 4WD isn't for use all the time (e.g. on dry surfaces)? Luckily it's snowing like crazy here in Rochester, so it will be a great time to try all of your recommendations. I'll be sure to check the tires for their model consistency and pressure.

 

Let's hope I can get it back in 2-wheel afterwards!

 

_S

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The reason for the 4wd not being happy when used on dry pavement is the system that Subaru uses. When 4wd is engages the same amount of power goes to the front and rear wheels. If you go around a corner in four wheel drive the rear diff will make up the turning difference for the rear wheels and the front will take care of the front likewise, but there is no center differential to make up the difference in distance traveled between the front and rear differentials on a part time 4wd system. A full time 4wd or awd system does have a center diff to allow the front and rear to travel different distances. Same goes for having different size tires on front and rear. One travels one distance and one travels a different difference putting mucho strain on the drivetrain.

 

4WD + dry pavement is similar to :Flame: +:banana: =:dead:

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because there is no center differential.

e.g.

Front set of wheels are locked in the same rotational

speed (angular velocity) as the rear.

 

Since when you go around a turn there is a difference in the

track the front and rear take, some slippage has to occur to prevent the binding of the center drive unit.

 

 

If it will not come out of 4wd, back the car up about twenty feet

or spin the wheels (after shifting to 2wd) on a very snowy section

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