Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Ticking noise from the dash, Speedo cable?!?


Recommended Posts

Always when i drive slowly i can hear a soft ticking noise from the dash. I suspect its the speedo cable cause it goes with the vehicle speed, driver faster, ticking goes faster. I have this for years, but now it started to become much louder, although only for some time and when the engine is cold. The speedo itself behaves normal (as all other indicators) no dancing of the needle.

Anyone an idea whit it could be with the cable, at gearbox side or at dash side? Prever not to take appart the dash of the 91 legacy (2.0, 2wd 4E-at).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off it may be as simple as a dry cable. There is a trick to lubricating the cable, so just dont start globbing grease on it.

Otherwise you need a cable.

 

nipper

 

Sounds nice, any idea how and where to do this Nipper?

(sounds logic that cable is lubricated turning at high speeds)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had to look. There is a spedo lubricant, its grpahite and watery, so be careful.

I dont know if you have one cable or two (depending upon hos the cruise works).

I was taught to lubricate a cable from the bottom, and let the cable drive the lubricant upwards. I dont think that applies anymore, so go by the instructions on the lubricant. USE VERY LITTLE! it can stain clothes, carpets, and get flung all over the inside of the spedo and your pants if you use too much.

 

I always replaced my cables. You can take the cable drive out and clean it and put it back in, only if your ready to commit to buying a new cable, incase you find out yours is actually damaged.

 

nipper

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know if you have one cable or two (depending upon hos the cruise works).

nipper

 

I dont even have A/C :grin: (means more power to the wheels, although only front) So also no cruise, really a pity cause it would increase milage.

Ok will try that, so it means have to take the instrument panel out of the car :mad:. (have the US service manual but European dash is little bit different).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you leave the cable alone fo rlong enough.. when it's super cold it may start to scream :rolleyes:

 

Super cold in Holland :rolleyes: only when

http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/images/hell_freeze.jpg

(Norway btw)

 

Will try and take it apart in the weekend, anybody ideas how i can do that. First detach the cable from transmission (auto), and than in the dash. If i remove the cluster can i just take the cable out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here's a write up about the speedo-cable if that's what you're after:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71341

 

at the bottom of the original post you'll see where i mention an easy way to regrease the cable. you'll likely want to approach it that way, should be quick and simple. at this point i'm guessing you'll need another cable though, but maybe it's not too bad yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here's a write up about the speedo-cable if that's what you're after:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71341

 

at the bottom of the original post you'll see where i mention an easy way to regrease the cable. you'll likely want to approach it that way, should be quick and simple. at this point i'm guessing you'll need another cable though, but maybe it's not too bad yet.

 

Correct me if i am wrong.

As i read from the write-up i need key 17mm to remove the cable from the automatic gearbox (4E-AT). This means just unscrewing the black bolt, or are there any other things to undo at the gearbox side. Ok then the other side. According to the write-up i can remove the cable by actually just pulling at it close to the firewall? It will just pop out of the speedo? Then putting it back, will this be as easy as on the older subaru's (removing the cap and look behind the speedo cluster). It will just click back in?

It seems really simple then, feel bit bad cause it seems to simple. I know subaru's are quite straight forward engineering.

The loud ticking only happens when the engine compartment is cold, after 15 min of driving its over an can only hear very soft ticking if i turn all other features off in the car and drive really slow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you'll have to look at the transmission side, it's likely a 17mm but could differ some. either way it just unscrews and is very obvious.

 

the cable is a two part mechanism. there's the sheath and then the cable rides inside of it. i would first try by NOT pulling the cable out of the speedometer like you metioned. you can pull it from the fire-wall and reinstall it when you're done, but you may be able to avoid that.

 

once you remove it from the transmission side you should be able to pull the actual cable out from inside the sleeve without ever removing it from the fire/wall or instrument cluster. the cable slides inside the sleeve. since it pulls out from the transmission side, you may be able to slide it off once you remove it from the transmission. make sense? clean it up, relube it and slide the cable back into the sheath (which is still in place and connected to the instrument cluster) and you're done.

 

if that doesn't work for some reason, then yes, pull it out by the firewall. installing can be really tricky as the back of the instrument cluster may not be easily seen...or seen at all depending on the model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok i have done it, took the cable out and regreased it with carbon powder very easy. Got it back in and had a try. The power light directly started to flash. (i drove with out speedo to see if it was the ticking problem).

 

Pulled the codes

- vehicle speed sens1

- vehicle speed sens2

Is this normal to get by driving without speedo cable?

 

Car drives normally, normal shifting no abrupt shocks during shift.

Resetted the ECU and TCU by battery method see what happens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, but there should be only one code, but there is one sensor behind the dashboard that dectects the speed shown, if it sees one sensor pulsing and and not the other one, it will think they 1 or the other is dead.

 

After resetting it does not show any code anymore so seems fine. What i have done in total is:

 

  1. Locate speedo cable mount on differential house (automatic) and remove the black rubber cover by pushing it upwards.
  2. Undo the bolt with 17mm key, then drive it out by hand, its very loose.
  3. Lift up the bolt and pull out the small pin with square head. Then undo the clip on the outer tube and take of the whole bolt by gently pulling it out.
  4. Now the hose is free and can be pullud out gently as well.
  5. Clean all parts with cloth (this graphite grease stains very badly).
  6. For regreasing the cable you can either take a graphite spray or graphite powder (i could only get powder). For spray i guess spray it on. For powder: Put some powder in the palm of your hand (better to wear latex gloves or something) put the cable on it and close your hand, now rotating and slow pulling the cable will spread the graphite powder nicely. Put at the tip of the cable some thick acid-free fat, like vaseline.
  7. Put the cable back in the outer tube and put some more graphite on it whilst putting it in.
  8. For the pin its important that the round part is clean, put some graphit on it and a drop of oil (just a very very little drop). Put some graphit in its housing and push it in. Mount the thing to the outer hose and apply the clip. (remember how the clip came of, i forgot it, the longer retangular parts go into the groof on the top end of the bolt)
  9. Place the bolt back onto differtial and turn it back in using hands only. At the moment it becomes harder to turn, put the car in Neutral and push it a bit back and forward (to get the square part of the pin back in to the right position).
  10. Now use the key to thight it, thight is thight, dont overturn it.

If you drove with the car (automatic) without cable you get error code. You can erase the memory of the TCU the same way as for the ECU/ECM.

 

Everybody thanks for their help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And now for the $64 question: Did it stop the ticking?

 

Oops completely forgot, Yes it did.

Costs: graphite powder €2 (guess will be $2 over there)

Time: can be done in 15 minutes (+45 for drinking afterwards)

Engineering: You are only worth it if you can undo a single 17 mm blot and put it back:clap:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sweet, so i was right you can just slide the cable out of the housing and leave the sleeve in place? excellent. that is good to know.

 

Here is how it looks like actually: (or see attachments)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14513&size=big&cat=&ppuser=14134

 

(think the connector is from the 3-wire front O2 sensor)

post-14134-136027621166_thumb.jpg

post-14134-136027621174_thumb.jpg

post-14134-136027621181_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...