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Remote start issues.


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16 replies to this topic

#1 kingbobdole

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 06:46 PM

So I installed a remote start on my SW, which is about the coolest thing BTW, and it has an issue... in order to sense the wagon running, the thing is looking for 1 volt above battery voltage. My wagon doesn't charge that high at idle, so the car shuts down rather quickly. The other way to sense that the car is running is the tach wire... Book says to turn my DVOM to AC power and check for .65-1.5 volts at idle and tap in there... I checked it out at the ignition coil and its more then that and the remote still does not work...
Thoughts?
-87 GL SW with carb->SPFI conversion.

#2 xoomer

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 07:05 PM

upgrade to a better alternator

#3 Durania

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 07:10 PM

XT6 alt is what I am thinking. Or one of them general motor's.

#4 kingbobdole

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 07:17 PM

ok then.... I actually have one, but I need the spacer thing to make it run a V belt... I know my alts an issue... is there no way to get the tach thing to work?

#5 daeron

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 09:37 PM

a nissan maxima alternator works as well, for those who were unaware. like, 86-92 i think???

Try to find a local auto electric shop. they can get the pulley alignment set up just right. Finding the shop is the hard part, nowadays....

#6 kingbobdole

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:33 PM

Is there anyway to like, cut the fan off the old alt and use that spacer?
The spacer is all I need and I kinda am broke ATM... :dead:

#7 jeffast

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:34 PM

geeze you rich folks with your fancy doodads

#8 mikeshoup

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:50 PM

Did you use the right wires off the coil for the tach sensor? Our coils *should* produce ~1V square wave for the tachometer, as that's what it expects.

I believe this is with respect to the negative side of the coil and ground...

#9 Mark Humble

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:51 PM

Might check to see if the voltage at the alt output terminal increases above one volt after startup. As for using the tach, I think that the tach is driven by the ECU, somebody correct me if I'm wrong. If it is you may have to get your signal direct from the tach or the ECU.

#10 mikeshoup

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:53 PM

Might check to see if the voltage at the alt output terminal increases above one volt after startup. As for using the tach, I think that the tach is driven by the ECU, somebody correct me if I'm wrong. If it is you may have to get your signal direct from the tach or the ECU.

Definitely off of the negative side of the coil. Definitely, most definitely.

#11 Mark Humble

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 11:04 PM

Definitely off of the negative side of the coil. Definitely, most definitely.


Scrach what I said, just found it in the book.

#12 daeron

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 11:17 PM

Is there anyway to like, cut the fan off the old alt and use that spacer?
The spacer is all I need and I kinda am broke ATM... :dead:


Its just a big nut holding it all on... you can check and see, but I can't tell you for certain. Always a good shot that a trip to the JY with appropriate sized tools can yield you a good sized spacer, too... if you find one, pay attention to what car it came out of. that would be valuable information.

Thats how I found the nissan 90 amp alt that fit. I did some research on vehicles with hi output alternators, I knew the datsun and the soob ones had the same casing, I went to the boneyard one day and started pulling alternators out of cars, and fitting them into an EA82 that was there. The nissan one fit :grin:

Also, dont forget that the high amp alternator is only high AMP, not high volt... it sounds like all you need is a good, strong alternator in there as opposed to the somewhat weak voltage output of the one that IS in there... but there is no guarantee that your XT6 alt has good, strong voltage output at idle, either...

#13 soobscript

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 11:46 PM

You should most definitely have at least 13V with the car running.
You have problems if you do not. Weak alternator, dying battery, bad ground(s), poor wire connection, etc.
A healthy electrical system has ~13.5V with car off (battery voltage) and ~14.4 with the car running. (More voltage than that is another problem, you will fry components.)

#14 daeron

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 11:52 PM

You should most definitely have at least 13V with the car running.
You have problems if you do not. Weak alternator, dying battery, bad ground(s), poor wire connection, etc.
A healthy electrical system has ~13.5V with car off (battery voltage) and ~14.4 with the car running. (More voltage than that is another problem, you will fry components.)


Good point, have you ever looked into replacing the charging wire on your car? IIRC, thats the large wire coming off the positive lug of the alt, going into the fusible link block. Add a ground between alternator and battery, and a ground between engine and chassis.. Try temporary ground straps (jumper cables) and see if your voltage comes up any.

#15 mikeshoup

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 11:55 PM

He said his alternator was wearing out. He just needs to put a good alternator on.

#16 kingbobdole

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Posted 19 February 2007 - 12:03 AM

My alt has been dying for some time... in fact my alt did die, so I stole the overcharge king off of the Rx's motor... its a very bad alt... turns the lights on dimly when idleing, charges to 16 V sometimes... its neat...

As far as grounding... I have about 4-5 big Stereo wires running between, the block and the frame, frame and the negative, and negative and the block.. its well grounded...

Lastly, on the spacer... the thing I need is what goes behind the pulley.. Since mine is V and the 6 is serp... I have the split V pulley, I just need the thing that holds it off the front.

#17 daeron

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Posted 19 February 2007 - 04:39 AM

lots of different alternators have different pulleys.. and different spacers.

What you need is either a pulley for the V-belt, and a spacer;

or a pulley with a molded spacer of an appropriate size;

or a spacer to fit behind the two circular plates that make up your old V-belt pulley.

Whatever you get, needs to be spaced out from the hub bushing of the alternator to line up with the belts. If you get your larger wrenches, and something to immobilize the alternators in the junkyard (big screwdriver in the fan, or get inventive) then you can go to the junkyard and start picking apart alternators until you find the bits that you need.

Or, you can go to an alternator/auto electrical shop in your area, if you can find one, and they oughta have odd parts like the required spacer hanging around.




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