soobme Posted November 22, 2003 Share Posted November 22, 2003 Any one out there found a way to get rid of them? I have been told that the newer(legacy?) Roos have a solid one that is part of the iner joint. Any chance that they would replace our iner stubs? I just saw over on the "new gen" board that pre '00 cars had the R160 and post '00 had the R180. Is that true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobme Posted November 23, 2003 Author Share Posted November 23, 2003 Any one?!? I KNOW I'm not the only one to snap a stub. There has GOT to be a cure for this. I would rater blow DOJ's all day than snap a stub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 23, 2003 Share Posted November 23, 2003 Well - I'm just an idea man, and not much for actually fabbing things (yet), but I don't see why you couldn't get some round stock, and bolt it in where the stubs are on the diff (may have to have it turned down to be the right diameter). Now obviously it wouldn't have splines on it - well screw the whole spline business, and cut the DOJ houseing back to where there is no more splines, and weld a four bolt flange onto that - same with the new stub. Now you have a four bolt flange mounting for the inner joint - just like a hummer! Have to be really careful on the welding part so as not to make them just as weak as the hollow stubs were - might be done tho. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobme Posted November 23, 2003 Author Share Posted November 23, 2003 What about the R180's? I have been told that the stubs are the same spling count/dia. How are they retained? Are they hollow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike W Posted November 23, 2003 Share Posted November 23, 2003 These WRX LSDs on eBay answer you question about the axles going into the diff. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2444166175&category=33731 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2443821911&category=33731 I have a R180 from a Nissan truck sitting here now. The stub axles on it also appear to be hollow with a bolt going into the diff. They are more robust and have big flanges that bolt onto the axle with like 10 or so 10mm bolts. I've also got the Nissan axles, thinking that maybe I could cut off the outboard end and weld the Nissan R180 end onto my Subaru outboard axle ends by sleeving them inside some tubing. But like you were saying above, if splicing axles is the plan, then Subaru R180 diffs would probably be a smarter way so as to avoid hollow stub axles. I keep coming back to the conclusion that using some other brand of diff for which cheap lockers are available is the way to go. R180 and R200 diffs are freekin heavy by the way, which is what makes me think an aluminum housing diff would be better and lighter. I suspect that some folks out there may already working on this method. Any spy data available or gossip on this subject??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobme Posted November 24, 2003 Author Share Posted November 24, 2003 I'm wondering how much it would help to have the stock stubs glass beaded and then cryo treated:eh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 Good thought process but something to ponder... It is a pain to change a stub or axle. However, how much bigger pain would it be to change diffs on the trail? Things break, sometimes often, I personally carry spare stubs just in case. That was the only thing I broke on the Rubicon. We had about 7 spare stubs with us plus an entire diff(welded of course). The nice thing about breakable parts is that we can usually just replace the broken part and be on our way. As we find and modify stronger parts our breakage will become more severe as well. At what point does it become a wash? We also exploded a welded diff. Literally blew up the floating gears. A direct result of more power and too much traction. Fortunately we were able to weld the side gears directly to the case(and it held). In closing, don't give up the research, but don't be too agressive with the little beasts we love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 Can you fill the stub with metal of some sort? Maybe weld it full so its no longer hollow? I dont weld, so maybe im misunderstanding the entire operation. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 The hollow end is the access hole for the retaining bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 Oh... there's a bolt in there. Never knew. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bekahs80Brat Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 It did only take us like 20 minutes to changes out Tony's diff on Friday, but lugging around diffs is a pain. Also the only way i've seen to get stubs is to get diff's, that can get pretty spendy. Tony's broke because he had a welded rear end, and got into a spot where one wheel was in the air, and the other one was spinning on some soft stuff, and when the one in the air came down, BOOM, the whole process was like 5 seconds. (kinda kewl in a way, the three of us on the top of the hill exclaimed "rear axle" at the same time, too bad it wasn't). I'll keep looking into a better option, but as Ken said, there is a point where the stronger parts will break the now weaker stock stuff. D'oh, didn't know the wife was logged in!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike W Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 Yeah I definitely get what Ken is saying about somethings are gonna break so it's best that it be something easy to fix. So the stubs and/or axles are like fuses. Better them than tranny, transfer case, etc. My reason for playing with ideas is that at some point I might decide to build a bigger badder Soob. But this would only happen if I have it over-engineered to the point that it should hold up to rocky terrain with lots of traction. It'd be independent suspension even though solid axles might be easier and more logical. Whole idea would just be to do something silly and different and make the average jeep guy go "what the f--?" Sorry for the off topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XSNRG Posted November 24, 2003 Share Posted November 24, 2003 Will the 180 diff fit the early soobs? Must be stronger. The ideal situation would be if the diff was stronger than the axel and it was the weak point. The axel is probably the easiest rear component to change or maybe better the rear driveshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobme Posted November 24, 2003 Author Share Posted November 24, 2003 U raise a good point Ken, but if it's poss. I would rather have the DOJ as the weak point in the rear. This stub looks like it's gona be a pain to get the rest of the stub and the shank from the bolt out. I don't know if it would be poss. to do it on the trail with out a welder(I'm working on one, but it's not in the car yet) I know that it snaped due to my led foot, but I just hate to put the same weak componant back in where I just busted one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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