is that timing belt idler pulley important?

[zyewdall]

The answer is.... Yes. The bearing one mine gave out and siezed driving through Durango, 300 miles into a 1100 mile trip to Arizona last week. Shredded the driver's side timing belt, and of course stopped the engine. I had had a bad feeling about the timing belt before starting, and had thrown a spare in and all my tools (even though it was still 5,000 miles before the scheduled change). But of course I didn't throw in a spare idler pulley. Luckily, it died about a quarter mile from the Napa, and they had it the next morning, and I was back on my way by 11am.

 

But, for any of you changing your timing belts, might want to check the idler pulley too.... mine probably had 225k original miles on it. I replaced the two tensioners too -- their bearings were pretty shot too.

 

Z

[nipper]

On the 60,000 mile belts i usually recomend every other timing belt change to change all the idlers. You can MAYBE make it to a third, but after that its just a matter of time.

On the 106,000 intervals we have found out you need to do it at every belt change.

It avoids getting stranded or even worse if its an interfernce engine.

Glad your back on the road

 

nipper

[daeron]

a low-cost option is to simply replace the bearings, if you can get the assembly taken apart. It is more than possible, but I don't know how to do it myself.

 

Once you get the bearing out you take it to a store that will supply that kind of stuff and just match it up by size. You could go to a good Napa maybe? Napa down here SUCKS but I gather they are a different store up north. Radio Shack sucks down here, too.

 

Just thought I would throw that in for posterity's sake.

 

I replaced my belts, because they snapped at 106K. I really must find out if those belts were the originals... I should be able to, PO was my ASE certified older brother, and the PO before that was his mother in law....

[nipper]

a low-cost option is to simply replace the bearings, if you can get the assembly taken apart. It is more than possible, but I don't know how to do it myself.

 

Once you get the bearing out you take it to a store that will supply that kind of stuff and just match it up by size. You could go to a good Napa maybe? Napa down here SUCKS but I gather they are a different store up north. Radio Shack sucks down here, too.

 

Just thought I would throw that in for posterity's sake.

 

...

 

A n ice thing about bearings, since they tend to live a nice weather sheltered life, they all have mfg names and numbers on them so its really easy to get a replacment.

 

nipper

[daeron]

A n ice thing about bearings, since they tend to live a nice weather sheltered life, they all have mfg names and numbers on them so its really easy to get a replacment.

 

nipper

also true. Usually at least an alphanumeric size code, and those are fairly universal among manufacturers AFAIK (ie 6001-z)

[82bratavenger]

dad just had a cam shaft on his ej18 break when the gear toothed idler seized. Alot of torque in those little motors. I always change the idlers.

[Sonicfrog]

a low-cost option is to simply replace the bearings, if you can get the assembly taken apart. It is more than possible, but I don't know how to do it myself.

 

It's easy, but it's not a road side repair. They also cost the average consumer more than they should. I work with pool and spa motors, and some use the exact same bearing as the idler. Ten years ago, I had mine go out while driving to San Diego. I was about 60 mile out of town when the pulley froze. I replaced the bearing for 90 cents, but paid about $90 for the tow back home before I could do the repair.

[Milemaker13]

Have you all read the threads on re-greasing the idler & tensioner bearings? I did it, worked well...124K and still smooth! Just stick one of those grease hypo- needles under the seal and squirt just enuff to grease em up.

[Numbchux]

 

[zyewdall]

[quote name=Numbch

 

[/quote]

 

Hey, where'd you get pictures of my idler and belt that's exactly what it looked like.

 

A new timing belt replacement kit that included the belts, two tensioners, and the idler came to almost $300 But, I didn't have much choice by then. about 300 miles from home, and another 1200 to go.... And my business partner's little sister (okay, she's 23 now, but she's still the little sister) was along for the ride too -- she handled it pretty well though, lots of traveling in third world countries.

[Numbchux]

Hey, where'd you get pictures of my idler and belt that's exactly what it looked like.

 

A new timing belt replacement kit that included the belts, two tensioners, and the idler came to almost $300 But, I didn't have much choice by then. about 300 miles from home, and another 1200 to go.... And my business partner's little sister (okay, she's 23 now, but she's still the little sister) was along for the ride too -- she handled it pretty well though, lots of traveling in third world countries.

 

that was my belt. less than 24 hours after buying my black '88 lifted wagon about a year ago. the PO changed the belts and the tensioners, but not the idler.

 

and, as it turned out, used the wrong bolts for the tensioners, which later stripped out

 

 

I've gotten a full timing kit with all 3 pulleys from ebay for less than $100 a couple times.

[zyewdall]

 

I've gotten a full timing kit with all 3 pulleys from ebay for less than $100 a couple times.

 

Yeah, I can believe that. But I bought it from napa --- I like their quality, but geez do the prices there hurt and I didn't feel like walking two miles to the autozone.... and waiting a day longer than for the Napa one.

[82bratavenger]

I replaced the one on my Dad's whole kit belt 3 idlers and tensioner about $125 my parts guy loves me:grin:

[Urabus-84HBDR]

i can second that... the idler pulley bolts stripped out. Weird! Heli coiled the two, and no prbolems yet. Shredded the one belt, and it jumped out of time, fixed it all in the schools parking lot... see no timing covers does help at times!!! i could visually see what was wrong, belt was loose adn the idler was all loose too... no covers pays off at times...

 

The answer is.... Yes. The bearing one mine gave out and siezed driving through Durango, 300 miles into a 1100 mile trip to Arizona last week. Shredded the driver's side timing belt, and of course stopped the engine. I had had a bad feeling about the timing belt before starting, and had thrown a spare in and all my tools (even though it was still 5,000 miles before the scheduled change). But of course I didn't throw in a spare idler pulley. Luckily, it died about a quarter mile from the Napa, and they had it the next morning, and I was back on my way by 11am.

 

But, for any of you changing your timing belts, might want to check the idler pulley too.... mine probably had 225k original miles on it. I replaced the two tensioners too -- their bearings were pretty shot too.

 

Z

[Erik R]

Deja Vu all over again:eek: Been down that path...........Ditto on the recommendations for replacing timing idler bearing(s) and tensioners.

 

As far as NO COVERS on the EA82............Best thing I ever did on my Subies, bar none!

And I learned it all here:) (Thanks MilesFox)

[Numbchux]

+1 for the no covers. the first time I broke a tbelt (about a mile after buying my blue wagon...), I had no idea. and it was throwing a crank angle sensor code....so I'm just mad.

 

every time after that, the motor dies, I get out, look underneath, and there's the tbelt hanging down. There's the problem right there! 20 minutes (or less) later I'm back on my way.

[psylosyfer]

Yeah, I can believe that. But I bought it from napa --- I like their quality, but geez do the prices there hurt and I didn't feel like walking two miles to the autozone.... and waiting a day longer than for the Napa one.

NAPA isn't always bad pricewise! couple weeks ago, I got an inner seal for my rear wheel bearing (91 Loyale) Schucks wanted $7.99, NAPA was only $2.79

and they were the same manufacturer! (SKG)