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Helicoil exhaust header bolts on a loyale?


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54 replies to this topic

#26 Milemaker13

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Posted 15 April 2007 - 04:59 PM

Hack Jobs? Whoever taught you manners did a hack job :Flame:
There is nothing wrong with replacing a striped stud with another size, and nothing wrong with a 20 min. side of the road fix that is better than factory solid. The hole was the right diameter for my tap. Nothing wrong with knowing some very useful tricks to save your friend's whole weekend! :banana:

#27 86subaru

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Posted 15 April 2007 - 05:52 PM

this topic has already been covered, and i ended up getting kicked off the board for a day,

#28 ZRX Doug

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 12:18 AM

I don't wanna beat a dead horse here..but, what the hey, I'm getting hammered by you swell folks for picking on the impeccable logic of the local big fish in this-here small pond, so why not go for the brass ring, huh?

I pointed out that readily available (and cheap!) GM studs intended for this use are a better choice of material than threaded rod of an unknown grade, and that all other things being equal, a helicoiled stud of the same diameter will provide better service than a non-helicoiled one.
I further attempted to explain that using a tap for a reamer is a sketchy practice at best, and likely to cause damage to either the tool or the material being worked at worst.
These things are NOT my opinion, they are fact.

I then jokingly (notice the little smiley icon, anyone?) asked that the person who held the opposing viewpoint never work on my car.

At that point, I'm accused of "waving my penis around," given the gentleman's life story (who is waving what, here?), and told that I'm a bad, bad boy.

Presumably stating facts is a no-no in this forum.
Pardon me.
Likewise, telling someone where they can obtain a ready-made component built for the job they're doing for a few bucks more than a chunk of weak-assed threaded rod that they're gonna have to cut to fit is also a cardinal sin. (Can I say "weak-assed" here?)
Forgive me father.

As for the "hack" comment, hey, I calls 'em like I sees 'em..but I don't resort to mean language like "hack" until someone accuses me of waving my wongleflute around.
Am I allowed to say "wongleflute" here?

It's amazing the cool roadside repairs one can pull off with a roll of duct tape and a coat hanger. However, when the person requesting help is doing so via the internet, one would assume he's not stranded in the middle of nowhere, unless he's got a really long DSL cable..knowing this, why would you recommend anything less than the best repair technique?

#29 daeron

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 03:45 AM

resident hippy here to tell the two of you to drip the bloody pissing contest and step back a moment....

doug, don't worry, the forces of logic are our friends here and i think that most anyone reading would agree that the helicoil route is the "better" fix, even if it is a couple more bucks and requires some precision work.

bob, relax, doug is right and he never tried to be a jerk; mellow out a little, he was kinda right; what he was saying IS a better way to fix it. He never said anything beyond that, outside of an honest comment, accompannied (like he said) by the stupid friggin smiley that is THE ONLY chance we have to put any tone of conciliation in our "voices" here. Just because a statement COULD be construed to be insulting does not make it insulting. he was jiving you, turkey, you just gotta sass it!!

#30 Milemaker13

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 06:24 AM

:)

#31 benebob

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 08:09 AM

[quote name='ZRX Doug']I don't wanna beat a dead horse here..but...[quote]

mmkay:confused:

Still trying to find that penis are ya? I too always instead of putting a bandaid on a cut simply cut that finger off. It keeps the infection from setting in.:grin:

If a stinking threaded rod of ANY grade can't hold 20 ft/lbs then maybe we shouldn't be paying the idiots in steel city usa quite so much!

#32 ZRX Doug

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 08:38 AM

You just like to fight, dontcha?
:banghead:

So what's the story behind the 14 second SVX, anyway?
*(BTW, my last race car was a SBC powered front engine dragster running high 8's, but my only flat four drag car (VW type III) ran in the mid twelves back when I was 18-19 years old w/a stock bottom end.)
:-p


*See, now THAT qualifies as "beating my chest"..still don't see where penis size comes in, though..

Your turn.
:)

#33 benebob

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 10:29 AM

Actually, I depore fighting or arguing. I just don't like chest pounding for idiotic reasons or bad advice to a newbe.

Sure I could make it go faster but its a race car not a straight line perfomer. Besides, at this point its never been beaten by a n/a SVX and it came in under $2006. Let alone one with an auto and a completely bone stock motor in it. I've actually never dragged it. I believe cars come with 5 wheels for a reason.

You just like to fight, dontcha?
:banghead:

So what's the story behind the 14 second SVX, anyway?
*(BTW, my last race car was a SBC powered front engine dragster running high 8's, but my only flat four drag car (VW type III) ran in the mid twelves back when I was 18-19 years old w/a stock bottom end.)
:-p


*See, now THAT qualifies as "beating my chest"..still don't see where penis size comes in, though..

Your turn.
:)



#34 Gloyale

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 10:34 AM

He fixed it already.

#35 Nug

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 11:03 AM

Will everyone in this thread get warning points simply for posting in it?

Oops...

#36 subeman90

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 07:42 PM

*snort* got the popcorn in the microwave....just here for the show. :clap:

#37 ZRX Doug

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 12:07 AM

If'n ya never dragged it, how'd ya come up with that thar "14 second" figure, fella?
:confused:
Actually, I agree with you..going around curves is way more fun than drag racing, but the stuff I attack the twisties with only comes with two wheels and a set of handlebars..however, if you've never driven something that'll do 150+ mph in the quarter, you have NO IDEA of the skills involved in that little bit of straight line driving. Add the joy of having a potential bomb disguised as a transmission sitting 'twixt your legs while your crotch nestles up against a differential and a pair of drag slicks wanna rub elbows (literally) with you, front wheels that'd look at home on a kids BMX bike (minus the brakes), and it makes for a whole different sort of challenge. If'n I can't find my penis, it's just 'cuz it crawled back inside out of sheer terror..
:headbang:
Just to give ya an idea of what it feels like, here's a pic of my old office, and one of the whole car..(things got much more "finished" than in these pics..they were taken the day I bought the car. It looked as though it was originally built by someone who subscribed to your belief in Home Depot..took about a year & a half of nights & weekends working before I felt it was "safe.")
Howzat for chest-beating?
:banana:

While all this penis-waving is sorta fun & all, it doesn't change the fact that threaded rod really doesn't belong on an automotive engine, or that a tap isn't a reamer.

Attached Files



#38 benebob

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 12:21 PM

You're still here giving crappy advice? Go enjoy you're bike as its already proven to be slower around the turns than a car as cars consistantly put up better road track times than bikes. Plain and simple. If you'd read (or have someone read a GRM to ya look at the April issue this past year and you'll see where that 14 came from). On a nice hot humid fl day too.

Sure a rod isn't ideal BUT IT WORKS. I guess something that works doesn't count unless it involves 3x the amount of work to ya. Again why are you here anyways. I'd think you'd be happier on the I'm superior to you because I go out of my way to make my life more difficult board. Personally I'd rather fix it so it will last as long as the original on a 10 year old car as the car won't be around long enough to warrant another replacement. Then I can use the time for more important things. I guess you don't have anything better to do.

If'n ya never dragged it, how'd ya come up with that thar "14 second" figure, fella?
:confused:
Actually, I agree with you..going around curves is way more fun than drag racing, but the stuff I attack the twisties with only comes with two wheels and a set of handlebars..however, if you've never driven something that'll do 150+ mph in the quarter, you have NO IDEA of the skills involved in that little bit of straight line driving. Add the joy of having a potential bomb disguised as a transmission sitting 'twixt your legs while your crotch nestles up against a differential and a pair of drag slicks wanna rub elbows (literally) with you, front wheels that'd look at home on a kids BMX bike (minus the brakes), and it makes for a whole different sort of challenge. If'n I can't find my penis, it's just 'cuz it crawled back inside out of sheer terror..
:headbang:
Just to give ya an idea of what it feels like, here's a pic of my old office, and one of the whole car..(things got much more "finished" than in these pics..they were taken the day I bought the car. It looked as though it was originally built by someone who subscribed to your belief in Home Depot..took about a year & a half of nights & weekends working before I felt it was "safe.")
Howzat for chest-beating?
:banana:

While all this penis-waving is sorta fun & all, it doesn't change the fact that threaded rod really doesn't belong on an automotive engine, or that a tap isn't a reamer.



#39 Gloyale

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 12:33 PM

Then I can use the time for more important things. I guess you don't have anything better to do.


Does anyone find this statement ironic? More important things, like posting insults in a thread about a problem that was fixed 3 days ago!:lol:

BTW, I think he used a stud. But he just tapped the stripped hole, no drilling(fine as long as you don't force the tap). Best of both worlds eh?

#40 Zebisko

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 01:13 PM

So, did that fix the exhaust leak? Or do you still need a new gasket?

And a piece of advice, a smart man is someone who makes something complicated to solve a problem. A genius is someone who makes a solution so simple, any person could understand it.:)

#41 Milemaker13

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Posted 17 April 2007 - 02:29 PM

So, did that fix the exhaust leak? Or do you still need a new gasket?

And a piece of advice, a smart man is someone who makes something complicated to solve a problem. A genius is someone who makes a solution so simple, any person could understand it.:)



Pretty much sealed it off, could still use a new gasket. But I am wondering how long it has been loose. Looking at the entire system a little closer, I have a larger leak farther back. When I re-connect the two pipes together(well, not quite exactly), we'll have it nice and quite.

I used a plain fine thread bolt, the same tap/bolts I use to fix stripped holes on the laser machines I work on. Not ideal... but stronger than factory (I think) and very easy. 20 min. on my back, no sweat! Soobie Rides Again!!!!

#42 xoomer

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 03:49 AM

I found that worked on my EA81 is a tap and die kit to m10x1.5 and some matching studs of the dorman section at any Auto parts store with some red locktite that seems to work pretty well.

#43 Gloyale

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:13 PM

I found that worked on my EA81 is a tap and die kit to m10x1.5 and some matching studs of the dorman section at any Auto parts store with some red locktite that seems to work pretty well.


M10 is what I bump up to if the 7/16 stud ever strips out. It's fortunate in a case like this that the Metric and Standard sizes fall in between eachother.

#44 Milemaker13

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 01:39 PM

But... m10 is the orignal stud size.

#45 Gloyale

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 06:11 PM

But... m10 is the orignal stud size.


Then m12, sorry, I got confused

#46 NewDriverOlderRide

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 09:42 AM

So Im going to go with benebob. Can you give me a detailed explaination on how to do this? From what I gathered, you are saying:

1. Tap the manifold with a 7/16 fine or coarse depending on the size of the stripped area.

2. Buy some threaded rebar.

3. Cut to size and insert into the manifold

4. Use a nut over the rebar to tighten everything back up?

Is that right?

Would it be simpler to instead just use a bolt inserted into the newly tapped hole?

Tyler

#47 ZRX Doug

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 10:21 AM

Go to your local auto parts store, they'll have pre-packaged 7/16 exhaust studs & nuts that are actually made of a material that won't snap on removal when it ends up corroding. Cost is maybe three bucks more than the threaded rod, the studs have a small diameter hex cut on the end for a wrench, and there's no cutting involved.
They're sold under the "HELP!" products name, retail for around five bucks for a set of three studs/nuts/washers per pack, and look something like this.
Posted Image

I'd still advise drilling to the proper size before letting a tap anywhere near a piece of expensive aluminum..
But hey, I'm just an idiot with a low post count.

#48 Gloyale

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 01:21 PM

Go to your local auto parts store, they'll have pre-packaged 7/16 exhaust studs & nuts that are actually made of a material that won't snap on removal when it ends up corroding. Cost is maybe three bucks more than the threaded rod, the studs have a small diameter hex cut on the end for a wrench, and there's no cutting involved.
They're sold under the "HELP!" products name, retail for around five bucks for a set of three studs/nuts/washers per pack, and look something like this.

I'd still advise drilling to the proper size before letting a tap anywhere near a piece of expensive aluminum..
But hey, I'm just an idiot with a low post count.


Yeah man, get some real studs they are cheap. Anywhere with the orange *Dorman* fastener boxes, Napa, or in the *Help* isle. Then you don't have to hacksaw anything, and you get the little hex to use to insert them to the bottom.

Drilling first is fine, just don't use too big a bit and don't drill any deeper. There is a coolant passage you will hit if you drill 1/4 in.
Tapping the stripped hole without drtilling works just fine too. Just go real slow, use lot's of oil, and back the tap out to clear chips frequently. Don't force it once it bottoms.

#49 benebob

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 02:26 PM

Checked my local Advance (no NAPAs within 20 minutes) and there aren't any studs long enough there in the help section I guess b/c I don't live in or close to the land of American Iron. If you can get 'em cheap then go for it but if not you'll be fine with the tap and rebar. As I said before no need to drill as the subie stud is actually a hair bigger than the bit for the retap so drilling would be well POINTLESS!:clap: Just be sure to get some wheel bearing grease or the an actual oil for tapping. FYI the tap is a little hard to come by as my local box stores don't have it. I think Sears its a specal order thing too.

Tyler don't use a bolt. Use a stud set up so it makes it that much harder to over tighten it. Keep in mind if you use rebar to put some washers on the rebar prior to cutting the rebar. Newbees sometimes cut at an angle and thus can't thread it on right.

#50 Gloyale

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 02:55 PM

Checked my local Advance (no NAPAs within 20 minutes) and there aren't any studs long enough there in the help section I guess b/c I don't live in or close to the land of American Iron. If you can get 'em cheap then go for it but if not you'll be fine with the tap and rebar.



Are you kidding? The stock studs are only about an inch and half, maybe 2 inches? I don't think I've seen studs any shorter. I suspect that this is just poor stock keeping by the local store.

EDIT: yeah, you're in Amish country, your store probably carries buggy parts, not American iron.




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