Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

- - - - -

Rusted oil pan - back four bolts


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_Frag_*

Guest_Frag_*
  • Guests

Posted 20 July 2003 - 01:37 PM

Could someone who has replaced his oil pan on a 2.2 L. tell me how he removed the four bolts at the back of the pan.
As far as I can see it seem impossible without raising the engine.
Hope I'm not right.

#2 Guest_theotherskip_*

Guest_theotherskip_*
  • Guests

Posted 20 July 2003 - 02:51 PM

i haven't done it, but the haynes manual says that there are access holes in the crossmember that is blocking your view of them (the crossmember which holds the steering rack). sorry i can't give you real-world advice...

#3 Guest_ShawnW_*

Guest_ShawnW_*
  • Guests

Posted 20 July 2003 - 03:12 PM

I did that with a large tipped philips screwdriver and I used a flex from my 1/4" socket set.

#4 Guest_Frag_*

Guest_Frag_*
  • Guests

Posted 20 July 2003 - 04:50 PM

Shawn, without raising the engine like Haynes says ?

#5 Guest_bill rigsby_*

Guest_bill rigsby_*
  • Guests

Posted 20 July 2003 - 05:17 PM

No access holes on my 99 Impreza, I am ready to
do it but not in the mood to raise the engine yet
like the manual says. I may drill the access holes.


bill

#6 Guest_TinyClark_*

Guest_TinyClark_*
  • Guests

Posted 21 July 2003 - 04:16 AM

Will the pan come off once the screws are out, without lifting the engine or removing the crossmember?

#7 Guest_ShawnW_*

Guest_ShawnW_*
  • Guests

Posted 21 July 2003 - 07:31 AM

Without raising the motor but mine was 90. I havent looked at Sadie's 95 to see if it has the holes.

#8 Guest_Frag_*

Guest_Frag_*
  • Guests

Posted 21 July 2003 - 10:36 AM

I have two access holes on mine (for the two center bolts), but the corner bolts will require a serious swivel joint extension to get out
Thanks.

#9 Guest_Frag_*

Guest_Frag_*
  • Guests

Posted 23 July 2003 - 02:13 PM

A bran new black and shiny oil pan is sitting right next to my desk. Not costly enough to risq a misfit with a used one.

I would like to have a last information if possible.

If I ever have to lift the engine a couple on inches, do I really have to unbolt the exhaust headers like Chilton's says or is there enough play in the exhaust system to take it ?
And if Shawn is reading this, what kind of swivel did you use exactly for the back corner bolts? Swivel socket or swivel extension? I mean was the swivel part right next to the bolt or otherwise. I'm preparing to do this at the cottage and since there's only one car I wont be able to go the store to get extra tools :x

#10 Guest_Bobsube_*

Guest_Bobsube_*
  • Guests

Posted 24 July 2003 - 05:49 PM

A 1/4 inch drive ratchet with long extension and swivel works very well. Instead of lifting the engine, I loosen the oil pickup assembly to allow the pan to come off.

#11 Guest_Frag_*

Guest_Frag_*
  • Guests

Posted 25 July 2003 - 07:58 AM

Thanks for the reply Bob.

#12 Guest_alia176_*

Guest_alia176_*
  • Guests

Posted 27 July 2003 - 08:46 AM

Some misc ramblings......

Remember to put antiseize compound on the threads of the"new" bolts that will be used to install the new pan. I say new, cause if you're gonna go through this headache might as well do it right for the next time! These bolts can be purchased at a local ACE hardware stores. Also, try to use sockets instead of screwdriver bits. I haven't done this on mine so I dunno if this is possible. Sockets just provide more torque, which also means more chances of the bolt head shearing off. If the bolt looks rusty, then spraying some penetrating oil couple of days before might (or not) help out things!

Have fun.
Ali




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users