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Posted 27 November 2003 - 01:30 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:02 AM
first if it's floating all over i'd just add a spring to hold the shifter still. it's on the top of the tranny on the shift linkage. there is also a bushing supposedly you can replace.
if your having to travel the stick really far to get in any gear i can tell you how to fix it.
i need more details of the problem. i need to know more. is it in all gears, are you having to move the linkage long distances to acheive where you need it to be. or is it just floping around.
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:08 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:12 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:15 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:18 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:20 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:23 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 02:27 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 05:02 AM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 06:05 AM
The problem with trying to get new parts is that it's not the roll pin that's worn - it's the hole in the shifter itself that's worn. Not cheap, and probably not even easy to get. Cutting the slot, and putting in the 3/8" bolt is way easier, and will probably last the life of the car.
Although I must admit that doing the repair with the transmission out of the car made it more trivial. Working under there with power tools sounds like more of a pain.
Posted 27 November 2003 - 09:22 AM
To remove and affect the repair of said shifter - one must work above and below.
Remove the shifter console cover. The cointray spacer behind the the shifter console and infront of the E brake housing is a snap fit.
It exposes the two phillips head screws for rear of the shifter console.
The metal retaining ring is next then the rubber boot gets lifted.
Fighting your way around the four wheel drive shift lever can be eased by removing the lever)
One 6mm (10 mm head size) bolt holds the shifter.
Now down under:
The pin GD speaks of, must be driven out. Note: this pin is a two piece affair you must get the inner and out pieces out.
The nuetral spring is an EZ removal but study it's mounting points.
The "barrel" must now be slotted back to the upright section
The bolt used to "clamp" the barrel back down is a 8mm (12 mm head size) The use of this size bolt precludes the drilling of said parts.
If you want the mutts nutz, a short shifter can be incorporated at this time (welding required, email for details)
Hope this helps
Posted 27 November 2003 - 01:14 PM
Posted 27 November 2003 - 03:17 PM
I used a 3/8" cause it's what I had in both a bolt and a drill bit. But of course I had the tranny out, and was able to drill and all.
Never could figure out what they were thinking with that two-peice roll pin affair - just bizzare if you ask me. Too much play in spring steel. Who designed that?!? I really don't see why they just didn't bolt it in the first place....
Posted 28 November 2003 - 11:44 AM
so please bear with me as I am trying to fix the slop also.
I have all parts removed to view the shifting mechanism. I do not
see that at this point I need to do the drill and bolt. Is the slop
in this area obvious or very small that would cause the slop?
According to the chilton's and my viewing, the change rod bushing
is in need of replacement. Took out the shifter arm and no bushing, all deteriorated. WOuld this cause the the slop and
sticking in 4th gear by itself? I also have to grind to get into 3rd.
How available is the change rod bushing?
Thanks in advace for some much needed help.
Posted 28 November 2003 - 12:00 PM
My local dealership even stocks that - they only stock 1 of course, but they do stock it. Very availible.
If you've got it apart - do both. Bolt it, and replace that bushing too. That will save you a trip down this road again.
Apparently using an 8mm bolt will preclude drilling according to Skip. That's very nice since power tools don't fit down there well. I drilled mine tho - made the bolt fit very snug, and then cutting the slot in the side really causes the bolt to be able to clamp down on the tranny shaft. My shifting is very smooth, and very positive. It's easy to find gears now too.
Grinding in third is an indication of a bad syncro. Fixing the shifter slop will not stop this. Does it do it all the time or only on the downshift? It it's only on the downshift, you can try going to 2nd first, then to third. That has worked for me. If it grinds all the time, then the syncro is about shot, and there's really nothing to do but rebuild the tranny, or buy a JY one.....
You can also try using redline brand gear oil. Mine grinds on the downshift, but I find that with redline it's a little better, and seems to go away after the tranny is warmed up. Still does it when cold tho. At least it helped, and may prolong my already worn syncro's. The stuff is expensive, but a lot of people swear by it, and gear oil aint cheap anyway, so I figured what the hell. Cost about $8.00 a quart from a local place for me. The tranny takes 3.5 quarts BTW.
Posted 28 November 2003 - 12:29 PM
For the record it is an 84 Brat I am working on. I will start with
the shifter work as you reccomend. Will do tomorow or this
From there I will see how the find and grind goes as I have not
driven the car (truck?) much since i purchased it. It does get
locked in 4th, think this might be slop related?
Please clarify the 'slot' that is repeatedly mentioned. Is this
equivalant to grinding a flat area on the shaft so the washers
and nut tighten down to a flat surface?
Also, yesterday when I started the shift work, it was my first
time under the car, and for that matter 1st time under any Brat.
Lots of gear oil on the undercarriage. I will steam clean it this
afternoon, but any common areas of leakage you are aware of?
Posted 28 November 2003 - 12:48 PM
And it's only a few bucks?
Thanks for the info..........I'll be making a stop on the way home:D
82 Summer, (SubaruHummer) with broken ****er bushing........
01 Forester, nothing broken............
Posted 28 November 2003 - 02:04 PM
Hope this helps
Posted 28 November 2003 - 03:37 PM
your picture is worth a thousand words. It would appear
that the function of the slot is so when the thru-bolt is tightened,
it tightens down firmly around the trans shaft elimating any
Am I on the right track?
Also, the local Subaru dealer found the change rod bushing and
will be in next week.
Posted 28 November 2003 - 05:44 PM
Posted 28 November 2003 - 07:26 PM
To prevent the locking in 4th, take it out of that gear before comming to a complete stop. If you forget and it locks, just rev to 3 grand and slip the clutch to get in inching forward, and take it out of gear. Has worked for me so far. I do plan to investigate that little problem further - will advise when I go after that one.
Posted 28 November 2003 - 08:16 PM
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