12 replies to this topic

[Scott in Bellingham]

Hi guys Im looking at buying a 89 GL 4wd with a fluid leaking Automatic, If I got it I would trade out the auto with a Dual/range 5 speed, couple questions, I know I will need :

-Transmission
-Shifters
-Pedal set
-Clutch pressure plate
-Clutch disc
-Throwout bearing
-Pilot bearing
-Flywheel
-Clutch cable
-Speedometer cable


will I need anything else??

are the front axles the same ( spline count) , will the auto axles fit the D/R ?
rear diff 3.9??
driveshaft ?


heres a thresd I found, didnt mention axles,
http://www.ultimates...light=auto swap

[baccaruda]

I'm looking at doing the same thing to my EA81T coupe SOON.

You need the transmission/shifter stuff and rear diff to match, of course.
You need to either have a custom 1-piece driveline made or attach the 5SP 2-piece's carrier bearing to your car's tunnel somehow.
You need the transmission crossmember and strut rod/reaction rod plates as they're different between models (according to Jerry - thanks!)
You need the flywheel and clutch stuff, and pedal rack and clutch cable. I'd grab the throttle cable too, just to be safe. And speedometer cable too, probably.
The front axles should fit the same as long as you're getting a trans from a N/A car. Same inner spline count.

Good luck!

[Reveeen]

Starter too!

[mikeshoup]

You need to either have a custom 1-piece driveline made or attach the 5SP 2-piece's carrier bearing to your car's tunnel somehow.
You need the transmission crossmember and strut rod/reaction rod plates as they're different between models (according to Jerry - thanks!)

An EA82 just needs the Manual drive shaft (IIRC, just the front half)
And only need the tranny crossmember. Don't need the radius rod plates.

Axles are fine as is.

You'll need a 3.9 diff... most Autos are 3.7 I think?

[baccaruda]

I haven't visually compared the radius rod plates but that's what Jerry told me while I was talking to him about a 5-speed shifter kit.. maybe just grab them while you're at the yard to be safe; they can't cost too much.
Also, I just stuck my head under my coupe and there *is* a 1-piece driveline sticking out of the 3AT sorry Mike! The 3AT is a 3.7 though.

[Scott in Bellingham]

I haven't visually compared the radius rod plates but that's what Jerry told me while I was talking to him about a 5-speed shifter kit.. maybe just grab them while you're at the yard to be safe; they can't cost too much.
Also, I just stuck my head under my coupe and there *is* a 1-piece driveline sticking out of the 3AT sorry Mike! The 3AT is a 3.7 though.

I have another complete doner car, my main thing was front axles, I know the turbo has the bigger spline thanks everyone

[mikeshoup]

I haven't visually compared the radius rod plates but that's what Jerry told me while I was talking to him about a 5-speed shifter kit.. maybe just grab them while you're at the yard to be safe; they can't cost too much.
Also, I just stuck my head under my coupe and there *is* a 1-piece driveline sticking out of the 3AT sorry Mike! The 3AT is a 3.7 though.

Yours is an EA81, his is an EA82. Different. Sorry, but underneath an automatic EA82 IS a two piece driveshaft. And the EA82s do not need to have radius rod plates swapped from my understanding.

On ALL 4WD EA81s, there is a one piece driveshaft, and its the same manual or 3AT. All EA82s and newer use a two piece.

[baccaruda]

argh. I didn't look past the "leaking automatic" part
's what I get for trying to rush in a bit of slacking at work! (I'm still right though!! )

[Numbchux]

most auto's use a 3.7. so you'll need the rear diff.
front axles will work
front half of the driveshaft is longer (manual tranny is shorter).


other than that, you should be set.

[Scott in Bellingham]

got the car last night, its the nicest Subaru Ive ever owned, whats happening is transmission fluid is coming out the diff dipstick check hole the diff oil level is way over full and the tranny dipstick shows nothing, I dumped 2 quarts into it and drove it home, made it and it started slipping by the time I got home also the oil pours out the diff dipstick hole right onto the hole exhast which makes a nice smoke screen,it does have the rear 3.9 , its a clean car well mantained got it for $250 the plans are to change it out to the D/R trans do a 2" lift would like to find some 14" chrome import truck rims and some 205/75 all-terrains will be my daily driver , not a wheeler, ( the wheelers in the garage being built up) will keep you guys posted , my be a while as I have the wheeler to build zzz zzz SJR

[MilesFox]

you will need the trans crossmember and the bolts and rubber bushings. the longer bolts replace a regilar bolt on each of the trianguloid radius plates.

the space there the AT's mount is would be a metal plate on the MT.

dont forget the driveshaft! the MT driveshaft is longer on the front half becahse the transmisson is shorter than AT

the axles will fot on the stubs.

you will need the bolts for the flywheel since they are longer than the ones on the flexplate

[Gloyale]

Quote myself "Auto and 3.9? really? You're the second person in 2 days to say they've got one of these. Is that the original trans? Diff? I had thought positively all Auto EA82s were 3.7?"


I typed this then dug round and found something out. The 3at 4wds have a slightly different ratio of transfer Front VS. Rear. Front shaft is driven at 1.023:1 the rate of the main shaft, Rear shaft is driven at .948:1 the rate of the main shaft. What does this mean? Front diff is 3.7, rear diff is 3.9 (or if you go back to the earlier 85,86 and turbo ones 3.454front and 3.7 rear)This means that while the Front diff ratio for 3ats is 3.7, the rear diffs in all of the 88+ will be 3.9s

4EAT equiped GL and Loyale turbo cars are not like this transfer for both shafts is 1:1 same diff ratio front and rear.

[SoobGoob]

one problem i ran into when i did this sawp was the netural switch. best option would be to get a DR out of a FI model then there would be a spot in the tranny for the switch. if you use one out of a carbed vehicle you will have to rig something up like GeneralDisorder did or just leave it out and have a constant CEL like i did if your car is a carbed model then i wouldnt worry about it. also you have to rerun the ebrake cable but there is a mount higher up on the tunnel already there for you. also best option would be to rewire just the telltale it self and not swap for the manual wiring. only took me about 2 hours. i think thats all i can remeber that wasnt covered by anyone eles posts.