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Modifying AA lift kit


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14 replies to this topic

#1 desert dweller

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 10:29 PM

I would like to modify my AA lift kit so that the rear wheels are'nt kicked so far forward. What would I need to do(space out to do this)?

#2 Hodaka Rider

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 11:38 PM

Drop the rear suspension crossmember like other lifts do. I looked into this, and Scott said he'd be willing to tool up for blocks if enough people want them. I was thinking maybe 2", so as to avoid dropping them so far that they might be able to catch on things easier (like some have experienced on the Ozified/BYB setup).
If you look at a stock EA-82 wagon, you'll notice the rear wheels are toward the front of the wheel well by an inch or so. The AA lift just exagerates it more.

#3 desert dweller

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 11:43 PM

Would I also have to drop the rear diff?

#4 Hodaka Rider

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 11:50 PM

Well, maybe. You might want to drop the rear 'mustache bar' another inch.

Here's another way to do it: http://www.eagleperf...ailingArms.html

Of course, these are made for VW-based sand rails!

#5 Numbchux

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 12:25 AM

why? by adding blocks, you're drastically weakening suspension.

if you're not changing the strut extension, you wouldn't have to lower the diff anymore. but in order to drop the front of the trailing arms to flatten them out, you have to drop the crossmember, which the front diff hanger is bolted to.....so it'll get dropped anyway.

#6 Hodaka Rider

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 12:39 AM

why? by adding blocks, you're drastically weakening suspension.


Kinda why I haven't actually done anything about the whole idea.

if you're not changing the strut extension, you wouldn't have to lower the diff anymore. but in order to drop the front of the trailing arms to flatten them out, you have to drop the crossmember, which the front diff hanger is bolted to.....so it'll get dropped anyway.


Yah, that's why I said maybe lower the rear an inch. Then you would have 1+1 at the rear, plus the suggested 2 at the front. For a grand total of 2" drop at front of diff, plus 2" drop at rear of diff.

#7 desert dweller

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 01:25 AM

why? by adding blocks, you're drastically weakening suspension.

if you're not changing the strut extension, you wouldn't have to lower the diff anymore. but in order to drop the front of the trailing arms to flatten them out, you have to drop the crossmember, which the front diff hanger is bolted to.....so it'll get dropped anyway.


I just didn't want to cut up a straight rust free body to make my tires fit. I was wondering how other lifts work as far as the rear end goes.

#8 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 07:47 AM

I just didn't want to cut up a straight rust free body to make my tires fit. I was wondering how other lifts work as far as the rear end goes.


27" tire will require only a small trim

#9 desert dweller

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 10:39 AM

My 28's are still in good shape and that was the smallest tire I could get that works well down here in the desert.

#10 Hodaka Rider

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 10:52 AM

My 27" swampers measure out to almost 28". I had to trim only a small amount in front of the rear tires. Most people don't even notice I trimmed it.

#11 desert dweller

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Posted 18 May 2007 - 05:37 PM

On my last wagon I had to beat in to wheel well. I was wondering what kind of clearance I could gain by dropping the crossmember a inch. I don't mind trimming but I wanted to see what my options are before hand.

#12 Numbchux

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 08:45 AM

keep in mind, with it in 'stock' AA configuration, the pivot point is up by the body, so the tire won't get any closer, it'll move backwards as the suspension compresses. if you drop that crossmember, and as a result, the pivot point of the trailing arms, that'll mean that the wheel will move straight up and a bit FORWARD (if it travels far enough). towards the sheet metal you were trying to save.

I had 215/75r15s (that measured to a touch under 28s) on my 4" AA lifted EA82 wagon with about 2 hits with a small maul on that front corner of he rear fenders. the front was a different issue.

full downflex:
Posted Image

full upflex:
Posted Image


the PoopenVagon (black EA82 with 3" BYB lift and 235/75r15 tires that measured to a hair over 29") would touch the rear doors on full upflex because the trailing arms were pretty much level. and I had to re-engineer the mounts on one side, because the blocks that drop the crossmember got bashed a few too many times, and ripped the captive nuts out of the body.

#13 desert dweller

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 11:31 AM

How much does the BYB kit drop the rear crossmember?

#14 Numbchux

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 09:55 PM

How much does the BYB kit drop the rear crossmember?


I honestly don't know what they do now. but the Poopenvagon had 3" blocks everywhere. so all suspension angles are stock.

I just went wheeling with my buddy that has that rig now....and boy is it coming apart :eek:

#15 torxxx

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 09:25 PM

I'm definately interested in Scott's drop down brackets.. I've talked to him before about it. I dont like the front rake the rear tires have. No sense in cutting out good body metal if a 2 inch bracket will adjust the tire back some.




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