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Rear Wheel Bearing Job Question


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19 replies to this topic

#1 hohieu

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 12:45 PM

I'm beginning a rear wheel bearing job on my 99 Forester, and am having a heck of a time getting the lateral link bolt off - managed to get the nut off, but the bolt won't budge. The threaded end seems to be stuck inside the bushing collar. I've doused it with PB Blaster and have banged away on the threaded end with a 3-lb. hammer and punch but it won't budge.

Would appreciate any ideas.

#2 svxpert

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 04:20 PM

<<I've doused it with PB Blaster and have banged away on the threaded end with a 3-lb. hammer and punch but it won't budge.>>

cut it off and buy a new one. so much corrosion on them makes it impossible sometimes to salvage. are you taking the hub to someone with a press to do the bearing?

#3 porcupine73

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 06:06 PM

I think if you cut it off the shank of the bolt will be stuck in the hole right? A couple ideas: try to get the bolt to turn like impact wrench or whatever while soaking it with your choice penetrating oil, beeswax, etc. Maybe beat on the other end while turning it. Also if you can somehow get a slide hammer on it that might pull it out.

#4 hohieu

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 05:58 AM

Thanks for the suggestions.

<
are you taking the hub to someone with a press to do the bearing?


I picked up a Hub Tamer set.

#5 hohieu

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 10:49 AM

Still soaking with with PB Blaster and wacking away with my 3-lb. hammer ... That bolt is really seized in there.
:mad:

#6 Jimmyowensfan20

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 11:17 AM

I've got a bolt buster that is 1/2 inch drive. You put you socket on it and when you hit the end of it it it turns the socket an 1/8 of a turn.. works great.Availabe at sears for 50 bucks.

#7 Jimmyowensfan20

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 11:18 AM

Oh! The harder you hit it...the more force it generates. Craftsman

#8 hohieu

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 11:25 AM

One question -- is the end of the knuckle closest to the threaded end of the bolt also threaded? If not, I'm just going to keep wacking away at it until it moves.

Tried hitting the bolt with turning force on the head of the bolt -- put a breaker bar on it with a jack under the breaker bar -- nothing! This is turning out to be a real PITA. I'll let you know when it moves -- at this point, the bolt will turn, but the threaded end is stuck inside the collar, where the rubber bushing itself is turning.

#9 hohieu

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 04:31 PM

okay, tried overtorquing it to get the bolt to slide inside the bushing collar, but nothing... then some more wacking with the 3-lb. hammer but still .... nothing. I need to take the car in for an inspection and will see if my mechanic can bust this thing loose.

#10 porcupine73

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 06:10 PM

Hi, not familiar with the '99 forester suspension. Is this the single bolt that goes through the strut/shock? If it has what I think is called double wishbone?

#11 hohieu

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 06:20 PM

It doesn't go through the strut, which also attaches directly the knuckle (wheel bearing housing). It's a single bolt that runs along the bottom side of the knuckle with a nut on the end and sandwiches the transverse linkages onto the corresponding ends. The nut came off, but the bolt is stuck inside the bushing collar on the threaded end, which points toward the front of the car.

#12 88whitecat

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 07:13 PM

Don't know if this helps but, when I dissassembled the rear for a legacy I got someone to help me. I used a 3lb sledge on a pickle-fork under the head while he used an impact wrench to make it spin. The first 1.5" were a bear but after that it slid the rest of the way out with a minimal of problems.

#13 02subyL

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 06:27 PM

The knuckle itself is not threaded, but you've probably figured that out now that the bolt spins. I've got the same thing going on right now with my '97 Impreza. Any success?

#14 hohieu

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 06:44 PM

Will give it another wack tomorrow, perhaps with the pickel fork as suggested. My mechanic took a look at it during state inspection but said those things can get really seized on there. I'll let you what happens.

#15 02subyL

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Posted 27 May 2007 - 07:39 PM

I found this related thread: http://www.ultimates...read.php?t=6571
I think at this point I will be replacing that bolt (it's twisting 1/4 turn at one end and seized at the other) and the two bushings too.

#16 DerFahrer

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Posted 27 May 2007 - 07:48 PM

With enough force, you should be able to just rip the bushing apart. If the bolt is stuck in the bushing sleeve, consider the bushing done for already. Go ahead and run by the dealer and order a new bolt and bushing, so they'll be in when you're ready to put the car back together.

#17 02subyL

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Posted 28 May 2007 - 02:37 PM

here's an update on my project. Finally got the bolt out and removed the knuckle. I will be replacing the two bushings as well as that bolt.

#18 88whitecat

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Posted 28 May 2007 - 07:08 PM

Watch out for that "sticker shock" effect. I felt raped walking out of the dealer after I bought 6 bushings (2 for each lateral link,1 for knuckle, 1 for the trailing arm) I couldn't believe that such small items could cost so much!

#19 hohieu

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Posted 28 May 2007 - 11:00 PM

Okay, thanks for the friendly advice. I thought the pickel fork might do the trick, but there was not nearly enough clearance to get it wedged in between the bolt head and the washer.

I tried an impact hammer to break the corrosion weld, then wacking away some more while bracing the the knuckle from behind with a 2x4 , but the dreaded bolt still wouldn't budge.

In the end, I cut it off and destroyed both bushings in order to remove the darn thing.


Watch out for that "sticker shock" effect. I felt raped walking out of the dealer after I bought 6 bushings (2 for each lateral link,1 for knuckle, 1 for the trailing arm) I couldn't believe that such small items could cost so much!


Thanks for the warning, I'll brace myself.

#20 Aspen

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:44 PM

Been there.

Burn, baby, burn. Take a torch to the bushings.

I suggest that it is bushing upgrade time. Call Ralli-spec for the Group N bushings set. Well worth it.

You might as well do both sides while you are at it and get one alignment when you are done.




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