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Rear Wheel Bearing Job Question
Posted 19 May 2007 - 12:45 PM
Would appreciate any ideas.
Posted 19 May 2007 - 04:20 PM
cut it off and buy a new one. so much corrosion on them makes it impossible sometimes to salvage. are you taking the hub to someone with a press to do the bearing?
Posted 19 May 2007 - 06:06 PM
Posted 20 May 2007 - 05:58 AM
are you taking the hub to someone with a press to do the bearing?
I picked up a Hub Tamer set.
Posted 20 May 2007 - 10:49 AM
Posted 20 May 2007 - 11:17 AM
Posted 20 May 2007 - 11:18 AM
Posted 20 May 2007 - 11:25 AM
Tried hitting the bolt with turning force on the head of the bolt -- put a breaker bar on it with a jack under the breaker bar -- nothing! This is turning out to be a real PITA. I'll let you know when it moves -- at this point, the bolt will turn, but the threaded end is stuck inside the collar, where the rubber bushing itself is turning.
Posted 21 May 2007 - 04:31 PM
Posted 21 May 2007 - 06:10 PM
Posted 21 May 2007 - 06:20 PM
Posted 21 May 2007 - 07:13 PM
Posted 26 May 2007 - 06:27 PM
Posted 26 May 2007 - 06:44 PM
Posted 27 May 2007 - 07:48 PM
Posted 28 May 2007 - 02:37 PM
Posted 28 May 2007 - 07:08 PM
Posted 28 May 2007 - 11:00 PM
I tried an impact hammer to break the corrosion weld, then wacking away some more while bracing the the knuckle from behind with a 2x4 , but the dreaded bolt still wouldn't budge.
In the end, I cut it off and destroyed both bushings in order to remove the darn thing.
Watch out for that "sticker shock" effect. I felt raped walking out of the dealer after I bought 6 bushings (2 for each lateral link,1 for knuckle, 1 for the trailing arm) I couldn't believe that such small items could cost so much!
Thanks for the warning, I'll brace myself.
Posted 29 May 2007 - 03:44 PM
Burn, baby, burn. Take a torch to the bushings.
I suggest that it is bushing upgrade time. Call Ralli-spec for the Group N bushings set. Well worth it.
You might as well do both sides while you are at it and get one alignment when you are done.
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