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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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axle shear :)


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17 replies to this topic

#1 VaporTrail

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 02:05 AM

I finally got around to opening up the welded diff that popped last fall at Castana...

the rear stub axle on the drivers side just straight sheared off. all the welds are fine....
it also snapped off the head of the bolt....

I was running 30's and was doing a hill climb and the rear end started to bounce....
SNAP!

here's a good one, and the sheared one...
Posted Image

just replaced the stub axle, and it's ready to go.... just gotta yank the LSD back out...

#2 chazmataz

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 08:56 AM

Yep, thats the way they look and thats all it takes to. done about 3 of them myself and its always at the worst time to. hey, atleast there not to hard to fix. :lol:

#3 Scott F

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 09:24 AM

I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated. Can you send this sheared one to me so I can show it to the axle manufacturer?

Do the front ones ever fail like this?

#4 Turbone

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 09:32 AM

I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated. Can you send this sheared one to me so I can show it to the axle manufacturer?

Do the front ones ever fail like this?


No, because nobody runs a welded front diff(or a locked one).
Luckily I blow the CV cups before the stub axle goes. Its a quicker fix;)

#5 Jerry DeMoss

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 09:56 AM

I bet that makes a unique sound when they pop like that.:)

#6 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 10:14 AM

I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated.



looks like those things are hollow, what about the newer style axles that slip in without those hollow stubs? anyone tryed them ,? like the legacys and imprezas have?

#7 VaporTrail

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 12:01 PM

looks like those things are hollow, what about the newer style axles that slip in without those hollow stubs? anyone tryed them ,? like the legacys and imprezas have?


yes, hollow to allow the bolt to go through.


so, if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles?

the 3.90 VLSD out of the turbo Legacy has the solid stubs but they are different lengths. I think someone tried to use those stubs on another newer LSD diff that accepts the c-clip stubs, but it wouldn't work...

I supposed you could take a 3.90 VLSD and gut the LSD part of it, and try to weld up everything inside to make a spool....?????

if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles?

#8 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 01:59 PM


so, if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles?


I supposed you could take a 3.90 VLSD and gut the LSD part of it, and try to weld up everything inside to make a spool....?????

if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles?


do all subaru diff ring and pinion gears have the same mounting bolt pattern ? if so you might be able to take a newer 4.11 or 4.44 diff and install the 3.9 R&P gears, if your running a second transfercase and a rear diff up front then no problem, use 4.11s or 4.44s diffs

#9 Jerry DeMoss

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 02:35 PM

do all subaru diff ring and pinion gears have the same mounting bolt pattern ? if so you might be able to take a newer 4.11 or 4.44 diff and install the 3.9 R&P gears, if your running a second transfercase and a rear diff up front then no problem, use 4.11s or 4.44s diffs


Hmmm... I may have to do some poking around.:slobber:

#10 monstaru

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 04:13 PM

they do interchange r and p gears.if you really want die hard parts look at the r200 diff by nissan. check out the nismo boards or websites.cheers,brian

#11 rguyver

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 05:44 PM

It just just shows you how strong that small 6" ring and pinion are iv seen 30" tires kill stock dana 30s and 44s , but i have also seen the subie rear with a welded diff punch a hole in the iron case with 33" and not brake the stub shafts , i prefer that they brake rather then the axel or diff , i can keep lots of them as spares rather then a compleet diff .

#12 chazmataz

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 11:33 PM

the r200 nissan diff is a much bigger casing, i have considered it before because you can get an ARB air locker for those. the diffs are soobies use are the r160 nissan cases. they are pretty big and i haven't actually got one to see if they would fit. i've only seen them on nissan trucks (they are the front diffs on the 4x4) that have came into my work. if anyone has tried them i would be interested to know how it worked out or not. chaz

#13 Scott F

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 11:20 AM

So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff?

#14 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 11:35 AM

So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff?


with a welded diff when one wheel comes off the ground( looses traction)
the 1 wheel thats still on the ground takes all the drive force , as opposed to 2 wheels driving (with a open diff with both tires on the ground)

#15 Numbchux

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 07:53 PM

with a welded diff when one wheel comes off the ground( looses traction)
the 1 wheel thats still on the ground takes all the drive force , as opposed to 2 wheels driving (with a open diff with both tires on the ground)


AND, that also means that that side's suspension is compressed, which means that the CVs aren't at an extreme angle.

#16 Qman

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 08:55 PM

The R/P's swap from all rear 160 diffs. LSD centers have been used with all 3 ratio's.

You do not want to use Legacy/Impreza style clip in stubs as they will pop out which is just as big a pain as breaking them.

Mick, that is exactly what happened to Rob on the 'con trip. We had to disassemble a LSD on the tailgate in the middle of the woods.

#17 Qman

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 08:58 PM

So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff?


Usually, I snapped one when I bound the tires on a cravas on a granite ledge. Welded diff and both rear tires on the ground.

#18 WoodsWagon

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 10:28 AM

Usually, I snapped one when I bound the tires on a cravas on a granite ledge. Welded diff and both rear tires on the ground.


The open diffs blow too. I cooked one mid-burnout, and the other popped hillclimbing in sand, but it had had a fair bit of burnout abuse before it popped. Took the teeth off of the spider gears on the second one, snapped the crosspin and grenaded the spider gears on the first one. The carrier cracked and bent in that one too, and the ring and pinion got trashed by the amount of metal running around inside the diff as I nursed it home.




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