mcbrat Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I finally got around to opening up the welded diff that popped last fall at Castana... the rear stub axle on the drivers side just straight sheared off. all the welds are fine.... it also snapped off the head of the bolt.... I was running 30's and was doing a hill climb and the rear end started to bounce.... SNAP! here's a good one, and the sheared one... just replaced the stub axle, and it's ready to go.... just gotta yank the LSD back out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Yep, thats the way they look and thats all it takes to. done about 3 of them myself and its always at the worst time to. hey, atleast there not to hard to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott F Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated. Can you send this sheared one to me so I can show it to the axle manufacturer? Do the front ones ever fail like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated. Can you send this sheared one to me so I can show it to the axle manufacturer? Do the front ones ever fail like this? No, because nobody runs a welded front diff(or a locked one). Luckily I blow the CV cups before the stub axle goes. Its a quicker fix;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I bet that makes a unique sound when they pop like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I am considering having some of these stub axles made out of 4340 and heat treated. looks like those things are hollow, what about the newer style axles that slip in without those hollow stubs? anyone tryed them ,? like the legacys and imprezas have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 looks like those things are hollow, what about the newer style axles that slip in without those hollow stubs? anyone tryed them ,? like the legacys and imprezas have? yes, hollow to allow the bolt to go through. so, if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles? the 3.90 VLSD out of the turbo Legacy has the solid stubs but they are different lengths. I think someone tried to use those stubs on another newer LSD diff that accepts the c-clip stubs, but it wouldn't work... I supposed you could take a 3.90 VLSD and gut the LSD part of it, and try to weld up everything inside to make a spool....????? if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 so, if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles? I supposed you could take a 3.90 VLSD and gut the LSD part of it, and try to weld up everything inside to make a spool....????? if you could find a regular newer 3.90 diff, weld it up, then use the inner cup/stub on one of the EA axles? do all subaru diff ring and pinion gears have the same mounting bolt pattern ? if so you might be able to take a newer 4.11 or 4.44 diff and install the 3.9 R&P gears, if your running a second transfercase and a rear diff up front then no problem, use 4.11s or 4.44s diffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 do all subaru diff ring and pinion gears have the same mounting bolt pattern ? if so you might be able to take a newer 4.11 or 4.44 diff and install the 3.9 R&P gears, if your running a second transfercase and a rear diff up front then no problem, use 4.11s or 4.44s diffs Hmmm... I may have to do some poking around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 they do interchange r and p gears.if you really want die hard parts look at the r200 diff by nissan. check out the nismo boards or websites.cheers,brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rguyver Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 It just just shows you how strong that small 6" ring and pinion are iv seen 30" tires kill stock dana 30s and 44s , but i have also seen the subie rear with a welded diff punch a hole in the iron case with 33" and not brake the stub shafts , i prefer that they brake rather then the axel or diff , i can keep lots of them as spares rather then a compleet diff . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 the r200 nissan diff is a much bigger casing, i have considered it before because you can get an ARB air locker for those. the diffs are soobies use are the r160 nissan cases. they are pretty big and i haven't actually got one to see if they would fit. i've only seen them on nissan trucks (they are the front diffs on the 4x4) that have came into my work. if anyone has tried them i would be interested to know how it worked out or not. chaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott F Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff? with a welded diff when one wheel comes off the ground( looses traction) the 1 wheel thats still on the ground takes all the drive force , as opposed to 2 wheels driving (with a open diff with both tires on the ground) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 with a welded diff when one wheel comes off the ground( looses traction) the 1 wheel thats still on the ground takes all the drive force , as opposed to 2 wheels driving (with a open diff with both tires on the ground) AND, that also means that that side's suspension is compressed, which means that the CVs aren't at an extreme angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 The R/P's swap from all rear 160 diffs. LSD centers have been used with all 3 ratio's. You do not want to use Legacy/Impreza style clip in stubs as they will pop out which is just as big a pain as breaking them. Mick, that is exactly what happened to Rob on the 'con trip. We had to disassemble a LSD on the tailgate in the middle of the woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 So, the stubs only fail if you weld the diff? Usually, I snapped one when I bound the tires on a cravas on a granite ledge. Welded diff and both rear tires on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Usually, I snapped one when I bound the tires on a cravas on a granite ledge. Welded diff and both rear tires on the ground. The open diffs blow too. I cooked one mid-burnout, and the other popped hillclimbing in sand, but it had had a fair bit of burnout abuse before it popped. Took the teeth off of the spider gears on the second one, snapped the crosspin and grenaded the spider gears on the first one. The carrier cracked and bent in that one too, and the ring and pinion got trashed by the amount of metal running around inside the diff as I nursed it home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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