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over heating.


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obviously my car is not prepared for the summer heat. it has been running warm lately. i though it was the clutch fan which was missing 2 blades so i swaped that and flushed the radiator. but it still runs warm. not as bad. do water pumps make any distinct sound when they are getting bad? and i have absoutly no leaks in my system. and my thermostat is operations properly. after a drive the upper hose was hot as hell. could my radiator just be getting old? :confused:

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Your car is old enough to be due for a radiator. Remove the radiator and inspect it. If you have AC you realy cant see the condition of the cooling fins.

 

Replace the radiator cap.

 

Take a hose and wet the belts, see if the whistling goes away.

 

nipper

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Don`t Forget About the Thermostat... I Personally don`t Like `em, I Live in the Tropics, so I removed it in Both my Subies with Great Results! :headbang: `cos a Cooler Runnin` engine feels more Powerful.

 

I Suggest you to check your Engine`s Thermostat.

 

Good Luck! :burnout:

 

Oregon aint the tropics, at least not yet anyway.

 

If you live someplace where you need to worry about emissions or your worried about gas mileage , you need a T stat.

 

nippper

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obviously my car is not prepared for the summer heat. it has been running warm lately. i though it was the clutch fan which was missing 2 blades so i swaped that and flushed the radiator. but it still runs warm. not as bad. do water pumps make any distinct sound when they are getting bad? and i have absoutly no leaks in my system. and my thermostat is operations properly. after a drive the upper hose was hot as hell. could my radiator just be getting old? :confused:

 

I agree, replace the T-stat first and see where you're at. If it's still running hot let me ask this.

Is the bottom hose hot as well when this happens? Has you're cooling system ever been run with just water or a low coolant mix? I've seen waterpumps that quit pumping cause the fins rot away(aftermarket) when just water is used. Then you have a bare shaft spinning in there not pumping anything.

 

One test is to make sure the system is full, then turn on the heater. If it blows hot at first but then quickly turns to cold(or luke warm) air then you are getting no circulation.

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is it possiable for my waterpump to go and not leak anything at all? weep hole is also dry. i took the radiator out yesterday and it looked fine. so i flushed it and put in back in with 50-50 mix..... ill try the tstat and the circulation test. thanks gloyale

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use a Subaru thermostat, they are far superior to the aftermarkets, you'll see when you get them, they're freaking monsters compared side by side.

 

all of your fans are working properly (clutch or electric)?

check your radiator hoses often and try to see if they ever collapse.

 

i'm still tracing a hot running problem as well...i installed a new radiator, thermostat (multiple times), water pump, hoses, fans work...still running hot with a/c running. i'm going to try a new water pump since the other was an aftermarket anyway.

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use a Subaru thermostat, they are far superior to the aftermarkets, you'll see when you get them, they're freaking monsters compared side by side.

 

all of your fans are working properly (clutch or electric)?

check your radiator hoses often and try to see if they ever collapse.

 

i'm still tracing a hot running problem as well...i installed a new radiator, thermostat (multiple times), water pump, hoses, fans work...still running hot with a/c running. i'm going to try a new water pump since the other was an aftermarket anyway.

 

Have you thrown gauges on the ACsystem to make sure its properly charged?

 

nipper

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Have you thrown gauges on the ACsystem to make sure its properly charged?
yep, i tossed them right on top of it...har har har. i do have gauges and it's charged properly. it seems like the a/c exaccerbates the real problem, it's not the cause as far as i can tell. it'll run odd temps without the a/c as well, but haven't really tried it when it's really hot out during the day. at night, i've seen it waver and drift around some, not really high, but not normal. since i've owned like 20 XT6's, i know exactly what the temp gauge should look like and it's not normal. bizarre, bizarre, bizarre....
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its looking more and more like a bad radiator, but i know that rads for these things are expensive, so would rather have you inspect/replace everything else first.

 

What voltage is your charging system putting out?

What condition are your rad fan motors in?

 

 

nipper

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both my fans ar ein proper working order. i dont use my ac so i dont think that it has to do anything with it. the tstat i have in it now is a subaru tstat i got last sept

 

That didnt answer my question. Just because they spin doesnt mean they are working.

 

Is there any play in the can shaft bushings?

Do they spin freely by hand?

Can you check how much amperage they are drawing?

 

nipper

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have you (with care!!) felt along the surface of the radiator for "cool spots?" isolated areas that aren't as hot as the rest of the coils? This is a sure indicator that there are clogged areas inside the radiator, and that it is time to replace it no matter what it looks like outside.

 

After that, the next step is to confirm proper fan operation as nipper outlined, and make sure that they are both running well enough to be cooling the radiator. Then, its time for a new thermostat, and if you are pretty sure the radiator is not clogged, the water pump is the next step.

 

When were the timing belts done last? not that it would cause your car to run hot, BUT it makes doing a water pump job that much more reasonable, just in case somehow the water pump is NOT the problem.

 

Once the thermostat, fans, hoses, and water pump are all replaced.. you don't pay any attention to what you think, you get a new radiator. After that, if you are STILL overheating, then there is some other obstruction to water flow.

 

At that point, it MIGHT also be reasonable to want to do a compression check to make sure you have no cause to fear a blown headgasket.... BUT I CERTAINLY would not go so far NOW as to suggest that might be your problem. I just mention it to finish my little troubleshooting post, for posterity's sake.

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could you describe when it runs hot? always, highway or city driving?

and when it's running hot, do you get hot heat in the cabin?

any debris in front of the radiator preventing it from getting air flow?

are your hoses collapsing?

radiator cap(s) old?

 

its looking more and more like a bad radiator, but i know that rads for these things are expensive,
sounds like you were talking to me on this one nipper? expensive radiators and what not probably means XT6. i have another thread active right now, sorry i hijacked this one. radiator is a brand new Subaru radiator that worked fine in two other XT6's of mine.
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Soob,

You have the classic case of a bad radiator,

latin for it is radis-B-gonus

 

 

The fins that connect the cooling tubes delaminate and

cause the efficiency to fall dramatically.

No flush will fix this.

 

It occurs behind the fan shroud and is very hard to see

unless the rad is removed.

 

new double row is around 125 usd

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this is what i thought all along. so the symptioms i have point to a bad rad? i had the radiator removed 2 days ago and it all looked healthy?

 

Like everything, there is an inside and an outside. The outside looked fine, but i bet the inside is clogged. The car is old enough for that to happen.

 

nipper

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Yopu said fans are in working order. Does that mean the electric fan actually comes on when the temp gets high? It may be that the thermoswitch is bad. Put the selector to on the vent controls to off, then let it get warm. If the fan hasn't come on by the time the temp gets to 2/3rds then something is wrong. Either the thermoswitch is bad, or it has a bad connection at the plug or to ground.

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