Posted 10 June 2007 - 09:57 AM
I can't think of anything in the tirewell that needs to be removed. It's really straight forward. First I usually pull the radiator. Then I unbolt the alternator, A/C compressor and Power steering pump. You have to take the pulley off the PS pump to get it off it's mount. Stick a socket through one of the holes in the PS pump pulley onto the bolt heads behind it, that way the pump won't spin and use a 19mm wrench to take the nut off the pulley. Once you've unbolted the pump, get the 2 10mm bolts holing the lines to the front and side of the motor. Now you can fold the pump and lines up into the spare tire area without disconnecting it. Same with the AC compressor.
Now it's time to remove the Intake. 3 bolts hold it to the heads on each side. These are often the toughest bolts, Use some PB blaster or other oil to loosen them. I'd soak them for a day or two first. There is also an EGR tube coming out of the top of Pass side head. Unbolt it's flange form the Intake. Now the intake can be lifted off. Don't froget to remove and cap the Gas line and label the few Vac lines you have ot unplug.(most of them can stay in place on the intake). Remove the distributor.
Now you should be looking at the bare longblock. First remove the valve covers. A 10mm wratcheting wrench is your best friend for this task. It's a tight fit between the frame rails, espescially for the 5th/rear bolt of the drivers side cover. Now remove the timing belt covers, and the timing belts. Remove the rear cover pieces as well as they need to come out to seperate the Camcase/head/block. The Cam pulleys have to come off to get at the cover bolts. There is a flat spot in the middle of the now exposed camshafts. Use a wrench on those flats to keep the cam from spinning while you remove the 3 pulley bolts.
From here it's all self evident. Eight 12mm bolts hold the cam cases on. Be careful, when you remove the Cam case the rockers will fall off. If you're very dexterous you can hold them with fingers. I ussually hold at least the middle 2 and I put cardboard down so if others fall they don't get nicked on concrete(or dirty in gravel, depending on where you're working)
Now you're ready for the heads. Make sure you've unbolted the exhsaust first. Then it's nine 17mm bolts to get the heads off.
Assembly is reverse with a few notes:
There is a small o-ring between the head and the Cam case. A new one MUST be installed during reassembly. The Cam Case just gets a bead of RTV (grey) to seal it, but, DO NOT use any RTV sealant on the O-ring, a small dab of engine assembly grease will keep it in place for installation if nesscesary.
Use engine assembly grease to hold the rockers to the HLAs for install. To make reinstalling the Cams cases eaiser, rotate the motor till it's lined up on the 3 little marks. Before installing rotate the Cam so the locator dowel is straight up. This will place the Cam at a position where none of the lobes are pushing on a rockers as you bolt it down.
If the spacer/washer pieces from the rear cam case portions get lost or are broken, heres a trick. Use the old grommets from the valve cover bolts as a replacement. This is assuming you bought new valve cover gaskets/grommets.