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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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homemade lift


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50 replies to this topic

#1 del

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 12:48 AM

I am building a two inch lift for my 1988 gl-10 wagon. Would like advise and comments as I go.
Posted Image
Here is my strut extensions, now I need to clean them up and paint them. I am currently working on several projects, plus this week we are suppose to have 100 f (40 c) weather, so progress will be slow.

del

ps I tried to put a picture in this but failed, sorry.

#2 del

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 09:15 AM

can anyone help me with pictures? Seemed to upload ok, but does not show in post.

del

#3 Sweet82

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 11:13 AM

Your pics are here!

http://www.ultimates...00&ppuser=21238

Post the rest here in your own space--(Club Member Photos)

And we can see your progress.

#4 Spiffy

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 11:16 AM

remember that pics need to be 640x480 resolution or smaller, and no larger than 50KB in file size... the board's code isn't smart enough to resize for you, so pick up a program to resize them... I use FastStone...


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#5 Numbchux

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 12:06 PM

Posted Image

you had the image tags right, but you entered the wrong URL for the pic. right click on the picture in the gallery, and select copy image location. then paste that into your post.

#6 del

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 03:35 PM

Thank you, hopefully that looks better.

del

#7 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 04:33 PM

looks good 2" is pretty forgiving , front axles will take it rear needs to also drop the diff 1-2"

#8 del

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 11:11 PM

I painted my strut parts.
Posted Image
Scott I thought the rear axle was more forgiving on lifting than the front. I was going to block the front cross members down to match the lift. When I finish the front, see how much I need (want) to lift the back.

del

#9 Numbchux

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 02:08 AM

I painted my strut parts.
Posted Image
Scott I thought the rear axle was more forgiving on lifting than the front. I was going to block the front cross members down to match the lift. When I finish the front, see how much I need (want) to lift the back.

del


in my experience, that's the case. with 5" lift on the struts at all 4 corners, 1" on the rear diff, and 3" at the engine/tranny, I burned through 4 front axles in a month, and 2 rears (rear inner joints hyperextended and snapped offroad, fronts slowly failed on the highway, all but one was an outer joint). reduced it to 4" at the struts, and added an extra inch or so to the rear diff, and went for about 8 months before another one failed.

#10 MilesFox

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 01:57 AM

i kike the home-made welded up strut cap lifts, it looks better than the one i built.

if you are just lifting the struts, you shoould try to lift the crossmember slightly by stacking washers between the car and the crossmember, as much as you are allowed by the nuts threading all the way through with a good 3-4 threads showing. you could get a good 3/4" inch on the crossmeber-to body if not almost an inch. then tack weld up the washers to eachother.

on the radius rod plates you can stack washers to get about 1/4" to 1/2" to help compensate with the front.

lifting the struts alone will make the axle angle sharper than stock, premature wear.

spacing the fram will help make up for this. you might have to loosen the anti pitch bar and tweak a few lines just a tiny bit)

#11 del

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 10:39 AM

The current plan is to block the cross members down the same distance as the strut caps. I have no welder here so I had weld the parts some where else. Only building a two inch, I think I can get by without tying the blocks together (no welding). Now if the weather would cool off some, upper twenties (lower 80's f) would be nice, and I could get some work done.

del

#12 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 09 July 2007 - 02:06 PM

on my white car I ran on the front 3-1/2" on the strut top , 2" block at the engine cross member and 1-1/2" at the trans crossmember , on the rear 4" at the shock, 2" at the front of the diff and 3" at the rear of diff , no axle ever failed in 1-1/2 years of abuse

#13 the_postie

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 05:18 AM

on my white car I ran on the front 3-1/2" on the strut top , 2" block at the engine cross member and 1-1/2" at the trans crossmember , on the rear 4" at the shock, 2" at the front of the diff and 3" at the rear of diff , no axle ever failed in 1-1/2 years of abuse

Did you space any of the rear suspension x member down or just the actual diff mounting points?

#14 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 08:13 AM

Did you space any of the rear suspension x member down or just the actual diff mounting points?


just the diff

#15 Swedenboy

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 09:01 AM

I´ve been asking almost the same question in tho older generation forum. I have the same model as del, so I'm looking forward to see this thread get complete. I wonder if anyone could post photos of the lifts on engine/tranny/diff/rear struts so I can see exactly where to put them. Just photos of the places without lifting would also be great so I know where to put my homemade stuff... Also looking to get about 2" lift...

#16 del

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 11:52 AM

I´ve been asking almost the same question in tho older generation forum. I have the same model as del, so I'm looking forward to see this thread get complete. I wonder if anyone could post photos of the lifts on engine/tranny/diff/rear struts so I can see exactly where to put them. Just photos of the places without lifting would also be great so I know where to put my homemade stuff... Also looking to get about 2" lift...

I too would like to see pictures, I am sorry this is taking so long, but laying on the concrete in this heat is difficult.

del

#17 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 02:14 PM

I too would like to see pictures,


heres a 4" AA lift


Posted Image

Posted Image

#18 del

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 05:11 PM

I am not planning on tying the blocks together. I noticed this 4" lift does not tie them together either. When I see homemade lifts (usually 6" or more) they are tied together. Am I worrying about nothing or do I need to brace the blocks together. 2" lift.

del

#19 monstaru

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 06:01 PM

no need to brace 2",unless your uber anal............

and since your in there,just do 4"..........you'll be happier not having to do it again.

#20 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 10:32 PM

looks good 2" is pretty forgiving , front axles will take it rear needs to also drop the diff 1-2"

Not true, I just made 2 inch extensions on the rear coilover mounts

#21 Swedenboy

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 11:19 AM

heres a 4" AA lift


Posted Image

Posted Image


More qustions:confused:
Is the lift to engine and tranny made of pipes?

Is there 2 in the engine on each side, lenght?

2 on each side of tranny, lenght?

The "thing" on the lower picture, can't figure out what it is, and size.

It seems the lift of struts is twisted a little bit, how much and why? Guess it has something to do with camber?


But great pictures, really great job Scott!! :clap: :headbang:

#22 the_postie

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Posted 15 July 2007 - 01:47 AM

More qustions:confused:
Is the lift to engine and tranny made of pipes?

Is there 2 in the engine on each side, lenght?

2 on each side of tranny, lenght?

The "thing" on the lower picture, can't figure out what it is, and size.

It seems the lift of struts is twisted a little bit, how much and why? Guess it has something to do with camber?


But great pictures, really great job Scott!! :clap: :headbang:

You can use pipe or Rhs tube or solid alloy,you can weld in anti crush tubes where the bolts go through if using pipe or rhs tube.
Offsetting the strut blocks 7mm per inch of lift helps keep the wheels from doing this \ /

#23 del

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Posted 21 July 2007 - 11:37 PM

The weather cooled down, and I fixed my brothers volvo (with 233,000 miles just some of it is fixed), so it is time to lift a subaru. loosened the bolts on the cross member, took two extentions, an impact, and a six point socket. Took some measurements and tomorrow after the race in the morning (Europe Nürburgring, go Kimi) I will attempt two, two inch high by eight inch long blocks. A before photo.
Posted Image

#24 del

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 12:00 AM

First a question, what is this crossmember for? do I need it?
Posted Image
Almost finished one block for the engine cross member (needs paint). No the bolts are not tight yet.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Tomorrow paint and drill out the other one.

del

#25 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 23 July 2007 - 07:54 AM

First a question, what is this crossmember for? do I need it? no throw it away
Posted Image
Almost finished one block for the engine cross member (needs paint). No the bolts are not tight yet.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Tomorrow paint and drill out the other one.

del


looks good




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