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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Project: RAMROD (wrx TDO4L Port and Polish) !Dialup!WARNING!


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86 replies to this topic

#51 beataru

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 02:44 AM

Yeah, I had no Idea that it would work, I used the oil (mobile 1 synthetic :) ) but he said that even WD-40 would work, and I only added more oil when It ran out, when lubricant gets metal in it, it helps grind even more....(at least with knifes it does) and then I used a polish pad on speed 5 with my white rouge polish.... but MAN is it hard to clean off, I just finished the outlet side and am still trying to clean the polish off, I want to stick it in the parts cleaner at Jonathans work but I dont want it to rust.... hmmm....

#52 beataru

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 03:05 AM

well, I think I cleaned it off as best I can, but theres still some residue left in the housing that I cant get too, so its brake cleaner for that.... Heres some pics of every thing that I could get to with the small wheel....
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I AM TOTALY GOING TO BED ITS 1:05................ man am I a dork......
EDIT:
aww the pictures are terrable and unfocused, sorry bout that...

#53 daeron

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 03:35 AM

Wow, I was gonna suggest some rouge or jewlers compound before I got to the end of the thread, but you beat me to it.
That looks friggin awesome, man... Big applause! :clap:

Fantastic results, and a great learning experience. Good job to whoever may have been helping you along on this.. the only way it could look any more perfect is more time spent on the rougher ceutting to get a more uniform surface to polish. Port work like this is all a matter of removing material in stages; first in big steps, then gradually decreasing. First steps are done dry, but at any stage adding oil, water, or compound to your "bit" (be it grinding stone or cloth polishing wheel) will help slow the cut, make it more even AND usually extend the life of your bit/wheel.

Now can you see how easy it is for people to polish up aluminum valve covers? those things can, for the right engine, fetch a pretty penny when polished up nice. the covers on the soob are kinda out of the way, so its a bad example, but a valve cover for my Datsun 280Z can go for 150 or more on ebay, if nicely polished. I have a pile of about thirty of them. Think how much money could be made from that. :rolleyes:

Its normally the sort of thing that is only worth working on for yourself though. That, or you become a professional.

#54 beataru

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 10:37 AM

Yeah I couldnt find the time or the heart to do this for someone else, even if I go to an EJ swap, I am toataly keeping this housing!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, My parts are said to be somewhere in Phoenix, so, maybe I will get them tomarrow, maybe not, but I dont think it will be running tomarrow, I still need to replace 2 studs inorder for me to bolt it up... I hope this thing spins!!!

#55 beataru

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 09:37 PM

Well, I have the turbo re-assembled but, I had to replace 2 of the studs in my up-pipe, Sadly I could only get one out, so I had to cut the other one flush and begin the task of drilling this thing out, but, the studs I belive are super-hardend, so, it is chewing up my "dads" bit set, It chewed up my dremel bit, and now I need to talk to my friend the machinest and I'm sure he will have an answer for me, BUT THIS CAR!!! every attempt I do to make this thing better, it fights me to the end!!! I dont know why I still love it,


it has to be the digi dash, THATS IT!!!

#56 beataru

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Posted 01 August 2007 - 08:00 PM

Shes up on jackstands since 6 days ago... I had to pull the header, and figure out how to get the stud removed, I took it over to my machinest friend and he welded a nut on the other side of it and screwed it out.... While I was there I sanded the mating surfaces flush and I also sanded and patched up the crappy welding job that Merkatroid had to do... Its not his fault, way back when we had the header bolted up and it had a GINORMOUS leak in the mid-header area.... so he had to weld with limited space....so I fixed those leaks as best I could.... Also while pondering with my machinest friend, I told him that I had a stud that ripped out: story as follows: we pulled the studs to replace the gaskets because it is a pain to drop my header below the studs, sadly one ripped threads (as everything on this car goes) and we drilled and tapped it and repaired it with a threadsert (what you would call a porsche techs heli-coil) but Merk had limited room and the aluminum wasnt forgiving so it pulled out too, we were desperate to get the car out of his shop so we Drilled it with a 1/2 in bit and jammed jbweld up in there and drilled it and tapped it for the stud, it worked untill we had to drop the header and reweld it, the second time tightening it, it just all came out at once, so I was left with a huge hole where a stud should have been, I new no epoxy sold to public would beable to both withstand that heat and torque (which isnt that much) at the same time so, I asked Dave (the machinest) if It was possible to weld aluminum into that hole, he said "yeah that is an option, but, I could make you up an ""industrial" helicoil, out of allthread and machine it out and tap it for the stud size." MY EYES GOT THIS BIG nonoo THIS big and I said sweet, so I now have to drill the hole out a tiny bit more and thread it for these helicoils that I have and then pin punch the sides of to secure it and SWEETNESS I might just have my car back tonight... I pray that my turbo doesnt leak oil.... Wish me luck and sorry for the rediculously long read, I wouldnt read it either.... Pictures to come!!!

#57 beataru

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 12:03 AM

Oh my goodness, its 10:00 pm and I have to stop.... Things just arnt fitting as easily as they came off!!! AND I AM TURNING INTO THE MEANEST PEARSON IN THE WORLD... I hate it when I get like this, I am just so frustrated right now!!!! I am going to get some water take a shower and cuddle with my puppydog!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on the plus side, I did get my header bolted in snugly!!!! :headbang: But on the downside, there is a tube that is for coolant and I cant for the life of me figure out where it goes!!! I dont even remember disconnecting it!!! ok I am going to check some threads and then hit the showers.

#58 86BRATMAN

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 12:04 AM

I just want to say good luck. And we're all counting on you...

#59 beataru

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 12:05 AM

:eek: Oh boy now youve made me nervous!!!!

#60 86BRATMAN

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 12:07 AM

Shirley, you can't be serious.

#61 daeron

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 02:47 AM

I think he is.

And stop calling him shirley.

I saw the end of scary movie 3 i guess, on comedy central.. and saw leslie nielsen walk into the basement and say that, and almost peed my pants.

I almost fell out of my seat when I read your first post for the second time; I didn't believe it the first read. good one.

#62 beataru

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 05:17 PM

Well, Shes up amd running again, and I cant find any exhasut leaks, and I tripple checked for boost leaks, but, Shes not building boost like she should.... I even did the impossible, and unplugged my wastegate and florred it to redline and I made barely .42 bar an (although I cant remember what It was set at, i think 6 or 7 psi, whatever stock is) and I remember back when I first put the boost controller on there I accidentally hit 1bar(FREAKING FAST GL) so my thoughts are that some how, just maybe, I have the wastegate open just ever so slightly, because I did remove the actuator inorder to remove the exhaust housing..... So let me have your take on what you guys think....



Nice to have my roo back, real nice :burnout: :burnout: FFOREVER (until awd swap)

#63 86BRATMAN

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 05:19 PM

Didn't you mark the actuator arm before you took it off?

#64 beataru

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 05:21 PM

I did but I didnt need to, because all I had to do was remove the Jesus Clip, and take off the two bolts on the compressor housing, and it was off, I really really hope that it is something simple, I have went through so much trouble to get this piece back on the road with decent performance, I WILL TOTALLY SETTLE FOR STOCK HP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#65 86BRATMAN

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 05:25 PM

I just want to say....









How much trouble would it be to take the dp back off and see if the wastegate is open a little bit. And is it possible, with your porting you may have made the exhaust flow inadequite?

#66 erik litchy

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 06:40 PM

i never understood why people like to use only rotary tools to port.
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id use the die grinder less than this thing, takes less skill to use.

#67 erik litchy

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 06:41 PM

i never understood why people like to use only rotary tools to port.
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Posted Image
id use the die grinder less than this thing, takes less skill to use.

#68 beataru

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 07:56 PM

with porting I couldnt have made flow less than adequate, all I did was smooth the ridges from casting and then polished the surface....

#69 86BRATMAN

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 08:58 PM

Ok, just thought I'd ask. I didn't really look at all the pics to see details on how much you took out...

#70 beataru

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Posted 03 August 2007 - 08:18 PM

Well your previous statement might be partialy correct, My Header has been in a matter of speaking, Hacked together, it used to be one solid pice of the Dual walled pipe that we have in our cars standard, but, the Up-pipe arm was rusted through completely, and we had to chop it off and replace it, but we didnt have time, and I didnt have money to go buy some correct diameter pipe, so, we used some 2 1/4 (I think) diameter piping for the uppipe section, but right before it hits the turbo, it goes back to the original diameter size tubing so, I think that with the combination of the crappy job we had to do on the pipe(the doublwalled portion is just sitting in the middle of the header) and the much larger size of the up-pipe, I dont think that my little 1.8liter EA-82t can push enough air to spool the turbo in a decent rate of speed.... If I had another 2000 RPM I would be holyballs fast though :rolleyes: I need to find a place that can make me a new header with nice bends and a perfect size piping for my engine, either that or forge my engine internals get big and lopey cams and rase the redline another 3grand....

#71 cobcob

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Posted 03 August 2007 - 09:09 PM

Just about any exhaust shop should be able to do the up-pipe section for you at a reasonable price. I'd avoid your big chain ones and go with a Mom 'n' Pop if you can find one... I used to go to a place up in Illinois and they'd make up darn near anything you wanted or needed. Took in a bent piece of wire one time and said "I need some 2.5" pipe bent to this profile" 10 mins later I had a sweet mandrel bent section that cost me a total of $12.87 :grin:

#72 beataru

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Posted 03 August 2007 - 09:33 PM

Yeah, I guess theres a place down here called mighty muffler that this guy my dad knows has them make him headers for lots of cars and stuff. So I'll check it out!

#73 beataru

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 10:14 PM

while I was bypassing my coolant passage to my Tbody, I took off and re-secured my elbow that is on my Throttle body, this fixed some of the problem, although, not all of it, so I disconnected my wastegate and wow, My car hit .56 bar, unfortionately this was at around 4700rpm, so, clearly the problem is not fixed, but has been bandaided. I think I hear an exaust leak while under boost, so over the weekend I am going to go underneath the beast and snug up all of the nuts on my exhaust and see if that helps, I wont plug in my waste gate untill I catch the boost spike over normal, or fuel cut kicks in, either way, I will have a big smile on my face when it happens :rolleyes: .

#74 carfreak85

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 10:19 PM

I will have a big smile on my face when it happens :rolleyes: .


It seems that you're trying to blow your motor. Why would you want to do that?

#75 4WDFrenzy

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Posted 17 November 2007 - 10:33 PM

Real quick question, does your turbo have the adjustable(threaded) wategate actuator arm? If so, try shortening it. I had a similar problem when I made some repairs to my '95 GF8 WRX wagon(EJ20G) that I have. I reassembled everything and thought it was all good. It wasn't. As a matter of fact, I too thought that I had an exhaust leak because of the sound that it made when I tried to go into boost. I even went through the trouble of ordering a complete header and uppipe for it. After some looking around, I realized that I had not completely re-tightened the actauator arm to where it was supposed to be. I made my adjustments slowly(small increments) and progressively took the car for test drives until the turbo finally responded the way it was supposed to. Just a thought.

-Patrick




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