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Break in new rotors?
Posted 23 July 2007 - 02:18 PM
Posted 23 July 2007 - 02:34 PM
At one time this was true, rotors came "new" perfectly smooth, and we were using asbestos for brake material, you avoided "panic stops" (if you could for 500 miles).
Now, rotors ship with a swirl pattern machined in the metal, and we are no longer using asbestos, go ahead and drive it.
Posted 23 July 2007 - 02:59 PM
Posted 23 July 2007 - 03:16 PM
Thanks guys. Yes I noticed the swirl marks. If there not there, do I stil need to do break in? They are just plain brembo rotors.
You should be just fine
Posted 23 July 2007 - 04:02 PM
For instance, where i live you have travel a good 5-9 miles to get to anywhere where you can do 60 mph (and i dont mean legally), let alone do hard stops without getting rear ended. What are most people supposed to do?
Also I have yet to see an SAE paper on this (please feel free to show me is someone has one).
Just make sure you have a good brake pedal, be cautious on the first stop to make sure things work, then go ahead and drive.
Tire rack recomendations for specific brands
though i do love the part about avoiding heavy braking for 400-500 miles. Unless you live in north dakota i think thats impossible.
So many variations on the procedures, professionally i think a lot of it is a myth.
Posted 23 July 2007 - 04:20 PM
Posted 23 July 2007 - 04:31 PM
I did the stoptech bed in; seemed to work well. The way they described the bed in would go was how it went also. The stoptech bedin is probably a little agressive for the stock pads but it still worked. There was an EndWrench article that basically said bedding in was not required and is antiquated; can try to find if interested.
WOHOO i feel better :0
Posted 23 July 2007 - 05:35 PM
I got some ACT ceramic pads BTW and plain brembo rotors. I can stop on a dime now with my crappy worn pads and worn discs. Imagine with nice new rotors and ceramic pads
Posted 23 July 2007 - 05:38 PM
Noise and a hard pedal will be likely if proper lining break in procedures aren’t observed with modern friction materials. In fact, several experts we’ve talked to say that overlooking this procedure is the #1 cause of those complaints.
As one puts it, “It’s not unusual to see a perfectly good brake job ruined in the first five minutes by improper break in.”
We know people who still believe that the right way to seat linings is to really stand on the brakes a few times. That’s an anachronistic idea left over from the days when linings were supplied “green.” Panic stops would indeed get that friction material hot enough to cure it. But you don’t get uncooked pads and shoes from Subaru, or from any other manufacturer these days, for that matter, so this whole idea belongs to a bygone era, a time of ignition points and bias ply tires. It’s only of historical interest today, certainly not anything
you’d want to actually do.
The ideal way to start new linings off is to make 30 slow stops (spaced two minutes apart) from about 30 mph using light to moderate pressure. But nobody who works in a typical bustling shop is going to take that much time.
A more practical policy here is at least 10 moderate stops at 30-second intervals (you should be able to feel the action smooth out). Then avoid heavy braking for the first 200 miles.
Posted 23 July 2007 - 05:42 PM
Yep that was the article nipper. Excerpt:
I call that driving in a neighboorhood with stop signs.
Posted 23 July 2007 - 05:50 PM
Will get in the recommended "break-in" (brake-in?) about 2 minutes after leaving his yard (and before he can get to the 400 series parking lots found in that part of the world).
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