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fiberglass?? sheetmetal? no, Duct Tape!


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December:

small005.jpg

After Tonight:

ducttape3.jpg

ducttape4.jpg

 

December:

small003.jpg

After Tonight:

ducttape1.jpg

December:

small004.jpg

After Tonight:

ducttape2.jpg

 

Current score:

Rainy season = two months O' Flooded trunk

Shawn= Wet tools, destroyed Haynes Manual, moldy work blankets.

 

The Shawn Team is calling out Duct tape onto the field!! Can "The Taper" pull them out of this ballgame with a save, or is it all lost? Stay tuned for more details....

 

 

(redneckery FTW)

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You really need to bring that up here and let me do a more "permanent" fix on it:) .

 

But the hours involved in that duct tape job ..OMG fantastic work!!:grin:

 

man connie thats alot of work i dont know if i would try to work on that. You would need to pull all the window moldings to stop all the rust. ON that note im going to try to fix the rust on my wagon. Is pulling off and putting on that rubber seal hard to do.

 

Ben

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man connie thats alot of work i dont know if i would try to work on that. You would need to pull all the window moldings to stop all the rust. ON that note im going to try to fix the rust on my wagon. Is pulling off and putting on that rubber seal hard to do.

 

Ben

 

I have been thinking of how I would fix that since I first saw the pics... I have a plan of attack that does NOT require window pulling.and sometimes you can't "stop" the rust but you can slow it down alot. Trying to stop the rust around the windows is futile. Its under the seals under the glass..and usually messing with it ( pulling the windows..you are asking for leaks and/or a broken windshield. But sealing it off can majorly slow it down. Bucky has some nasty windshield rot but I made it air/water tight and in 4 years it hasnt gotten any worse.

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I have been thinking of how I would fix that since I first saw the pics... I have a plan of attack that does NOT require window pulling.and sometimes you can't "stop" the rust but you can slow it down alot. Trying to stop the rust around the windows is futile. Its under the seals under the glass..and usually messing with it ( pulling the windows..you are asking for leaks and/or a broken windshield. But sealing it off can majorly slow it down. Bucky has some nasty windshield rot but I made it air/water tight and in 4 years it hasnt gotten any worse.

 

If your going for a frame off though (so speek) wouldnt you want to address that. I would But then bucky would be down for a while because taking off all the windows sanding down the whole car and repainting would take a while. And no spray cans when you paint bucky. full on ppg hyper white (awsome color). lots of thick coats of primer and paint. So itl never rust again.

 

Ben

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Bucks never going to be getting a frame off..so to speak since he is unibody..I am just trying to get another couple years outta him until I can afford a rust free D/R 5spd Loyale..

 

I just would really LOVE to get my hands on daerons car..just for a weekend or 2 ..he has helped many people out electrically and with many problems..i would just like to help his little GL-10 get a new lease for a few more years for him

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Buc

I just would really LOVE to get my hands on daerons car..just for a weekend or 2 ..he has helped many people out electrically and with many problems..i would just like to help his little GL-10 get a new lease for a few more years for him

 

+1 for that.

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Are you saying theres no way to stop the rust on these cars. Thats phoey theres got to be a way.

Ben

 

 

There is. But you have to remove EVERY SINGLE BIT of steel that has even begun to rust. Even then, there is no way to remove the rust that is on the insides of the rocker panel beams and the box sections. Espescially if it's been exposed to road salt. Rust likes to happen in tigh places that hold water by capillary action(like the space between spot welds on panel seems)

 

If you're sube has anything more than the lightest surface rust, it's really too late already. You can do like Connie has said and try to slow it down as much as possible. And these cars can have tremendous rust and still be solid drivers.

 

I have a backround in auto body(2 years school) adn classic cars, and our definition of the term "restored" is mint. Perfect. Nicer than the day it came off the line. It's not unheardof for someone to have spent $20,000 + restoring an old mustang(which are the easiest classic to find parts for ex. VW)

 

These aren't rare exotics( XTs, RX, and SVX=sorta) They made millions of them, but they don't have the cultural signifigance of other million plus classics like Mustangs and Beetles. I LOVE subarus... BUT.... Unless you just have money to burn and/or a full body shop in you're back yard, "restoration" is not worth it. And because of the growing lack of replacement parts (espescially body and interior) it would be even more difficult. Daerons 2wd, 3at, sedan is just not ever going to be "restored" :mad: :sad:

It could be made to look better and be sealed. And the rust slowed signifigantly, but to "restore" it would be nearly impossible.

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There is. But you have to remove EVERY SINGLE BIT of steel that has even begun to rust. Even then, there is no way to remove the rust that is on the insides of the rocker panel beams and the box sections. Espescially if it's been exposed to road salt. Rust likes to happen in tigh places that hold water by capillary action(like the space between spot welds on panel seems)

 

If you're sube has anything more than the lightest surface rust, it's really too late already. You can do like Connie has said and try to slow it down as much as possible. And these cars can have tremendous rust and still be solid drivers.

 

I have a backround in auto body(2 years school) adn classic cars, and our definition of the term "restored" is mint. Perfect. Nicer than the day it came off the line. It's not unheardof for someone to have spent $20,000 + restoring an old mustang(which are the easiest classic to find parts for ex. VW)

 

These aren't rare exotics( XTs, RX, and SVX=sorta) They made millions of them, but they don't have the cultural signifigance of other million plus classics like Mustangs and Beetles. I LOVE subarus... BUT.... Unless you just have money to burn and/or a full body shop in you're back yard, "restoration" is not worth it. And because of the growing lack of replacement parts (espescially body and interior) it would be even more difficult. Daerons 2wd, 3at, sedan is just not ever going to be "restored" :mad: :sad:

It could be made to look better and be sealed. And the rust slowed signifigantly, but to "restore" it would be nearly impossible.

 

actually i was talking about connies wagon yea the sedan is gone

 

ben

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Thanks Gloyale..you said what I was thinking...or wanted to say.Most of what I do is just to prolong their life for a few more years...Cause ..for the most part they are too far gone to begin with...unless its a simple fender where you can just replace it. Even my XT6 isnt getting a "full" restore..its too far gone..just want to have it around for another 5-6 years

Like I said ..I just want to have a shot at helping daerons car get a few more happy years out of it for his sake..He deserves it!

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Like I said ..I just want to have a shot at helping daerons car get a few more happy years out of it for his sake..He deserves it!

 

I just wanna say I saw it in person. That's by far the worst exterior body rot I've ever seen on a soob. I have a feeling me and Daeron would have to take a spin and test his *air conditioning*

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Like I said ..I just want to have a shot at helping daerons car get a few more happy years out of it for his sake..He deserves it!

First off, I must say I am delighted at the response to this thread.. I posted this last night thinking I would throw a little something to you dogs, and you folks LOVED IT!!! :headbang:

 

Secondly, I have to add that holes or no, this bloody car aint gonna die for some time. Me older brudder had been driving it for about three or four years before I got it, and it already looked pretty much like this.. My memories aren't specific enough on the actual size of the holes, but the holes go back as long as I have known the car and that is to circa 2000.

 

One of my "alter egos" is Mr. Tenacity. This car scratches that itch rather well; for another example you can see my "how to build a lawnmower" thread in OT...:-p

 

This was STRICTLY to keep my damn tools from getting so wet.. When I saw mold on my work blankets I was FURIOUS and simply had to do something about it. Theres some cardboard reinforcing the hole over the gas filler, but the other side is pure alabama chrome (i LIKE that BTW!!)

 

Not to say that I didn't immediately think of painting the entire area with some primer, once I get a little rubbing compound to eliminate the rust stain streaking down onto decent paint. Wouldn't the primer help avoid the edges of the tape peeling?

I have a backround in auto body(2 years school) adn classic cars, and our definition of the term "restored" is mint. Perfect. Nicer than the day it came off the line. It's not unheardof for someone to have spent $20,000 + restoring an old mustang(which are the easiest classic to find parts for ex. VW)

 

I agree. THAT is the treatment that my datsun shall be receiving.. and the Good Fuji had the grace to bring me this subaru with a plan in mind...

 

 

Daerons 2wd, 3at, sedan is just not ever going to be "restored" :mad: :sad:

It could be made to look better and be sealed. And the rust slowed signifigantly, but to "restore" it would be nearly impossible.

 

Unfortunately, You have hit the nail on it's proverbial head here. Had this car a fice speed transmission, even 2wd... I would keep it. Even if it had the driveline it does, with an analog dash, I would keep it... but I LOATHE automatics. The digidash angers me. Seriously, FWD 3AT SPFI? Its the OxyMoron "Subaru GL-10." The windshield rust is the bad spot anyhow.. THIS is just the eyesore and water source.

 

I just wanna say I saw it in person. That's by far the worst exterior body rot I've ever seen on a soob. I have a feeling me and Daeron would have to take a spin and test his *air conditioning*

I hear ya.. I would take some really detailed photos of this rust; They both allow water access straight into the inner fenderwell, AND the trunk. The passenger side has rust extending into the filler area.. its BRUTAL. However, both cameras I have are crap-tastic and I never seem to have access to a decent one to take some close up photos.

 

 

BUT, one of these days, the Good Fuji's plan shall come into effect, and I WILL treat all this rust with some good Wurth products or POR, and glass up some patches to not look so godawful. The 2 or 3 holes in the front doorjamb areas, the windshield holes, screw em. Maybe some POR but nothing is going to fix this. (This "plan" of which I speak is basically, shawn practice on soob so soob no look like doo-doo; then shawn are good for when shawn play with Z car. YAY!:clap: )

 

One day, I will be riding behind a dump truck. The wrong piece of gravel is going to fly out after hitting a bump; that piece of gravel is going to sail through a beautiful arc as determined by inertia, gravity, wind resistance, and the luck of the Irish. Upon impact with my windshield, the spiderweb pattern that forms in front of my eyes will instantly inform me that my joyous time in the SS Tetanus, my 1987 Subaru GL-9.5, is finally at an end and I shall search for teh w4gon or sedan to transfer my favorite GL-10 bits into.

 

Who knows, maybe that day will lead to a visit to see one of you wondrous people! airfare from PBIA to Denver is only about a hundred bucks one way, and there are at LEAST a dozen of you whose opinions of a car I would trust enough to wire 500 bucks purchase price to. the Craig-list is our friend :grin:

 

Decent daylight pics may come tomorrow, but I will take a couple of close shots as well as wider angles, and give you guys a couple more scraps. :Flame:

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