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Brat Hauling Trailer? Trailer build?


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7 replies to this topic

#1 FlyB0y

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Posted 17 August 2007 - 10:13 PM

Ok, I have no experiance with this, so I am looking for advice. I would like to use my brat to haul a smaller trailer, I am thinking it should be safe with a 1,500lb max total weight (trailer + load) on a 2,000lb rated hitch attached to my rear bumper/reciever which is attached at both the rear bumper mounts, and the rear tie-down loops (or what ever you call them) that were used to ship the car to the USA.

I also have an opportunity to get a old tent trailer shell and use it's frame to make the proposed trailer. I would prefer a converted nissan or toyota longbed, since the axles would have the same six lugg wheels I use on the brat. :banana:

Is this project doable? If I go the tent trailer route, I was thinking of discarding everything but the metal frame that the tent trailer sits on, and attaching slots for stake sides. What do you think? :)

Thanks in advance!

Dayn

#2 ZRX Doug

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 11:08 AM

It'll work, but tent trailers aren't exactly known for their beefy frames..they can get pretty floppy when you peel off the shell, so some reinforcing may be in order if you go that way. I'd skip the converted truck bed/axle route..half or more of your towing capacity would be wasted on trailer weight. Also, some states won't let you license/register a trailer that doesn't have trailer-specific axles anymore. Check with your local DMV to see what the requirements are for licensing, sometimes it's as simple as a weight slip from the local scrap metal place's scales, but some states want info on the origin of EVERYTHING you put into the build..best to find out before ya start.

Check out www.harborfreight.com for some cheap liteweight utility trailers if money is the driving issue.

#3 ezapar

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 11:45 AM

I came >< close once to to cutting a brat in half and using the rear for a trailer. Still might someday. But Richie couldn't stand the thought of me doing it, so came and took it away.

#4 crazy D

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 08:29 PM

I came >< close once to to cutting a brat in half and using the rear for a trailer. Still might someday. But Richie couldn't stand the thought of me doing it, so came and took it away.


i believe thats what my cousins doing:banana:

-Dalton

#5 86BRATMAN

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 11:01 PM

i believe thats what my cousins doing:banana:

-Dalton


And if he was close enough I'd save the poor thing...

#6 monstaru

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Posted 19 August 2007 - 01:16 AM

i cut one in half once.a brat that is.wish i still had it.never got a tongue on it , but did figure out some of the balance issues.when you cut it,go just forward of the hump under the seats that the front mounts to the seat mount on.that is the only way that you can assure rigidity.some scabbing on of steelnext to the "framerails that are left from the brat and you can build a tongue in an afternoon.i suggest the longest sawsall blades you can get, and don't go cheap.really , you'll spend more.i did.but it was great fun cutting the damn thing up.the rockers were gone.yeah , i mean gone.

#7 FlyB0y

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Posted 19 August 2007 - 01:30 AM

It'll work, but tent trailers aren't exactly known for their beefy frames..they can get pretty floppy when you peel off the shell, so some reinforcing may be in order if you go that way. I'd skip the converted truck bed/axle route..half or more of your towing capacity would be wasted on trailer weight. Also, some states won't let you license/register a trailer that doesn't have trailer-specific axles anymore. Check with your local DMV to see what the requirements are for licensing, sometimes it's as simple as a weight slip from the local scrap metal place's scales, but some states want info on the origin of EVERYTHING you put into the build..best to find out before ya start.

Check out www.harborfreight.com for some cheap liteweight utility trailers if money is the driving issue.


What would you suggest as for proper reinforcement? Would just a 3/4" plywood deck do it, or would I need to add some more steel ribs?

#8 ZRX Doug

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Posted 19 August 2007 - 10:56 AM

That kind of depends on the trailer you've got. Some of them are built of fairly sturdy C channel or rectangular tubing, others use lightweight angle and depend on the low aluminum box as a sort of wannabe unibody. Once you get your frame stripped, try grabbing one end of it and twisting it along the centerline..if you can make it drop a corner you'll need to do something with it. Basically, you just need to restore torsional rigidity if you have the weak type. They have a tendency to come out sort of floppy without the supporting sheetmetal. About the cheapest way I can figure to fix this (no guarantees on the longevity) would be to sandwich the frame with plywood top & bottom, fully boxing the frame..poor man's monocoque. The alternative would be to replace/reinforce the existing frame rails with something a little more substantial. Just weigh up your costs BEFORE you start..those cheesy little Harbor Freight trailers work, and it's really easy to creep up into their price range fast when you're doing a homebuilt..it's depressing when you finish building something that's full of compromises and find out you could've bought a new rig for the same price..better to figure out your costs up front.




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