Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
* * * * * 7 votes

Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


  • Please log in to reply
1598 replies to this topic

#401 subaru360

subaru360

    has no catchy title

  • Members
  • 1,282 posts
  • Fleetwood, PA

Posted 27 April 2008 - 10:14 PM

If you cut the seal, try to keep at least one section intact. Then cut it so you can get the profile of the seal. Some of the restoration places have profiles you can look at to try and match it up.

#402 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 28 April 2008 - 01:12 AM

If you cut the seal, try to keep at least one section intact. Then cut it so you can get the profile of the seal. Some of the restoration places have profiles you can look at to try and match it up.

Thats what I was thinking I needed to do, thanks for the tip.

I'll talk to my windshield guy at work and see if I can get more input as well, he might even let me borrow some materials if need be for the removal :-p

#403 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,251 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 28 April 2008 - 06:11 PM

Bad timing. Charlie has or had several of those,old,removed from cars,but still good enough to use if no other existed. I'll see if he managed to save any,I'm sure he tucked them away somewhere.

If he has one not worth using we'll cut that one for a cross section to match up new stock to.

#404 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 28 April 2008 - 07:48 PM

If he has one not worth using we'll cut that one for a cross section to match up new stock to.

That sounds like a plan. Heck, just a photo of that cross section is all thats really needed.

#405 Caboobaroo

Caboobaroo

    USMB Drunk

  • Members
  • 6,876 posts
  • Oregon City

Posted 28 April 2008 - 09:40 PM

That sounds like a plan. Heck, just a photo of that cross section is all thats really needed.

If you can get a seal thats already out and in tact, best thing to do is soak it in automatic trany fluid to try and revive the seal to make it flexible again. Same thing goes for interior pieces that were originally vinyl or the likes that have become hard form sun (like dashboards). Using petroleum jelly on them and let sit for a few days, softens it right back up.

#406 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 29 April 2008 - 01:15 AM

If you can get a seal thats already out and in tact, best thing to do is soak it in automatic trany fluid to try and revive the seal to make it flexible again. Same thing goes for interior pieces that were originally vinyl or the likes that have become hard form sun (like dashboards). Using petroleum jelly on them and let sit for a few days, softens it right back up.

:headbang:

I have a few chassis plugs I can test that with too...

#407 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:37 PM

Off-topic question:

I just discovered there are TWO versions of the 1977 FSM... The brown version (part number MSA-107) and the blue version (MSA-108). I presume the updated (correct) one is the blue one with the higher part number?

#408 Caboobaroo

Caboobaroo

    USMB Drunk

  • Members
  • 6,876 posts
  • Oregon City

Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:51 PM

Off-topic question:

I just discovered there are TWO versions of the 1977 FSM... The brown version (part number MSA-107) and the blue version (MSA-108). I presume the updated (correct) one is the blue one with the higher part number?


Probably. I also have the red supplement book for the Brat in '77 as well:-p

#409 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 10 May 2008 - 09:13 PM

Sorry for the lack of recent updates, been kind of busy (just finished working 12 days in a row for inventory :unamused: ) but I've got a couple of new shots of the car to keep you occupied. Oh, and I'm also soaking the windshield molding in petroleum jelly as recommended to make it softer for removal in the next week or two, and i've also put started putting together a binder (with photos and such) to show body shops.

Anyway, some pics as promised:

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#410 maudsland

maudsland

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 182 posts
  • Newbridge near Bendigo Au

Posted 12 May 2008 - 03:47 PM

how hard is the rubber on the inside, if it is still soft enough just put pressure from inside out, ( i used to sit on the seats with my feet on the screen ), and get a friend to help roll the inside rubber where the pressure is to realease it, once it has started then it is easier from there.
Thierry

#411 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 12 May 2008 - 09:54 PM

how hard is the rubber on the inside, if it is still soft enough just put pressure from inside out, ( i used to sit on the seats with my feet on the screen ), and get a friend to help roll the inside rubber where the pressure is to realease it, once it has started then it is easier from there.
Thierry

The inside isn't too bad, its mostly the outside that has problems. The rear window molding is in better shape than the front too.

#412 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 22 May 2008 - 12:22 AM

Another Carb just arrived, rebuilt perfectly courtesy Jerry DeMoss!

Its the Weber 38/38, which as you can see is similar to the 32/36 but superior in several ways ;)

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#413 Jerry DeMoss

Jerry DeMoss

    Pushrods 'O' Fury

  • Members
  • 2,408 posts
  • Colorado

Posted 22 May 2008 - 05:23 PM

Wow I am amazed just how monsterous that weber is compared to your stock carb. That stock one looks puny! If you are putting that on the ff-1 then it will really sing in the upper rpm band for sure!:slobber:

#414 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 22 May 2008 - 10:26 PM

Wow I am amazed just how monsterous that weber is compared to your stock carb. That stock one looks puny! If you are putting that on the ff-1 then it will really sing in the upper rpm band for sure!:slobber:

Oh yes its going on the FF-1, your carb is in FAR better shape than any of the carbs I have, and of course the best performing (and actually relatively easy to tune), but it might be awhile before its up and running :P

#415 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 24 May 2008 - 12:32 AM

Man, using the rope to dislodge the windshield gaskets and remove the windshield + gaskets together without damaging the gasket is a pain in the butt :mad:

#416 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 25 May 2008 - 06:35 PM

Did some more bodywork today, removed a couple little extra metal pieces, ground down some other weld spots and such.

Gave up on the windows, going to have to use someone to get them out, I just don't have the right tool to do it nor the skill the do it properly. The good news is the rubber is in VERY good condition from what I can tell, since its easy to work with and not dry in any way (the petroleum slathering helped I believe).

#417 Jerry DeMoss

Jerry DeMoss

    Pushrods 'O' Fury

  • Members
  • 2,408 posts
  • Colorado

Posted 25 May 2008 - 08:55 PM

The good news is the rubber is in VERY good condition from what I can tell, since its easy to work with and not dry in any way (the petroleum slathering helped I believe).


Very interesting indeed. Another trick I learned from back in my rubber band airplane days is that glycerin type hand soap help preserve rubber as well as make it more pliable. Not sure if that tip will help you any. Sounds like a very cool in depth project for sure. Glad you are taking you time and getting it right.

#418 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 25 May 2008 - 09:37 PM

Just for reference, here are the pics from today... Lets see if anyone can see exactly what I did :-p

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

I also found a new rust spot on that last pic on the driver side rear fender well (couple holes there, not good) :(

#419 Jerry DeMoss

Jerry DeMoss

    Pushrods 'O' Fury

  • Members
  • 2,408 posts
  • Colorado

Posted 26 May 2008 - 09:58 AM

Lets see if anyone can see exactly what I did :-p


Cut some more sheet metal rust spots. Also I noticed you were doing a mockup of driving the car or you were recently taking a "stool" sample within your car. I am sick I know.

Good work so far.:popcorn:

#420 The Beast I Drive

The Beast I Drive

    CALL ME, (509) 391-5903

  • Members
  • 2,120 posts
  • Toppenish, WA

Posted 26 May 2008 - 11:24 AM

Cut some more sheet metal rust spots. Also I noticed you were doing a mockup of driving the car or you were recently taking a "stool" sample within your car. I am sick I know.

Good work so far.:popcorn:


Its not a stool, he's test fitting his super light wieght racing seat :grin:

#421 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 26 May 2008 - 05:09 PM

Cut some more sheet metal rust spots.

Actually no, I didn't cut out any more rust spots.

#422 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 26 May 2008 - 06:22 PM

You know, working Mon-Fri 8-5 is making this project difficult for me since ALL the body shops have the same hours I do, plus take the same holidays off :mad:

#423 subyrally

subyrally

    Trust your Turbo-Lust

  • Members
  • 2,888 posts
  • frederick, md

Posted 26 May 2008 - 10:20 PM

You know, working Mon-Fri 8-5 is making this project difficult for me since ALL the body shops have the same hours I do, plus take the same holidays off :mad:



why does that sound familure?

#424 Kostamojen

Kostamojen

    From FF-1 to BRZ!

  • Members
  • 1,692 posts
  • Roseville, CA

Posted 31 May 2008 - 06:05 PM

Success!

I got the windshields out! It just took a bit more silicon spray and force than I originally thought, but the rear one came out super easy, and the front one came out with a little bit of work...

The good news: The molding and windshields came out WITHOUT any damage! :headbang:

The bad new: I talked to a body shop this week, and they basically told me, "learn to weld" :-\

Anyway, here are a couple pics from today... The rear window area had a bit of rust that I just removed and put some paint on, hence the nice bright white color. The front window area was actually in good shape, no rust except one small spot, but it does have some dings on the passenger side area that need fixing:

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#425 TheSubaruJunkie

TheSubaruJunkie

    I'M BAAAAAACK!

  • Members
  • 1,921 posts
  • Sacramento

Posted 01 June 2008 - 03:59 AM

The bad new: I talked to a body shop this week, and they basically told me, "learn to weld" :-\



Find another shop. Im sure there's a restoration shop somewhere in sacramento that will be willing to help you.

Just gotta be willing to pay for it. Sounds like the shop you talked to today didn't want your business.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users