Kostamojen Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 As long as all that new steel and the rest of the car is rust proofed it will last, but leave it bare inside those new sills and you'll have another rust bucket in under 2 years. That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills. How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 I would suggest using por 15 in those areas so it will convert the rust areas to a black primer and prevent anything further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills. How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either. You can drill small holes and spray rustproofing inside. Then put a rubber plug in the hole you drilled. That's how most places do it. Are you really going to drive this in the rain or store it outside anyway? If not I wouldn't worry about it too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FF1_69 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills. How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either. Like Subaru360 said, using a hose with a special nozzle fitted, you drill a hole to suit the size at the end of the sill so that the hose or a flexible wand with nozzle attached is inserted, pushed all the way up and spray the product as you withdraw the hose at the required rate to ensure that all the surfaces are nicely coated. Your nozzle should have a nice 360° spray patern. I used an electric spray gun to apply the Valvoline Tectyl/Fisholene mix. Worked a treat. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 I would suggest using por 15 in those areas so it will convert the rust areas to a black primer and prevent anything further. That I have Like Subaru360 said, using a hose with a special nozzle fitted, you drill a hole to suit the size at the end of the sill so that the hose or a flexible wand with nozzle attached is inserted, pushed all the way up and spray the product as you withdraw the hose at the required rate to ensure that all the surfaces are nicely coated. Your nozzle should have a nice 360° spray patern.I used an electric spray gun to apply the Valvoline Tectyl/Fisholene mix. Worked a treat. Michael That I don't have... Are you really going to drive this in the rain or store it outside anyway? If not I wouldn't worry about it too much. Sitting outside? Not so much. Driving in the rain? Possibly. I do want this chassis to be able to hold up to the elements as best as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FF1_69 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 That I have That I don't have... Sitting outside? Not so much. Driving in the rain? Possibly. I do want this chassis to be able to hold up to the elements as best as possible. The spray gun that I used cost about $50 Aust. The brand was Wagner I think. I also bought an accessory 5ft extension complete with the 360° nozzle. It could handle some pretty thick stuff but I had to play with the viscoscity with more or less solvent and adjusting the stroke length until I got the right spray pattern. I would rustproof before I'd attempt filling those cavities with chassis foam. You would lose all access after. It's messy and be prepared with lots of little tins to catch all the drips or put up with a messy driveway. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonnie Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 as regards rust proofing, of course it is better to do this than not. i think most everyone can agree on that. as regards your particular situation, seperate needs from wants. If for example, the car will see limited use, is always garaged and consequently have limted exposure to the elements then the need is certainly low. i am not familiar enough with the car to know if the sills are sealed or not, but if they are this would further diminish the need to rust proof. As for what product to use, there are hundreds on the market. my experience with POR has been very good. as regards restoration costs, for most main-stream cars, the largest item is usually labor. the hours spent stripping a car or sanding a fender is not dependent on make or model. Accordinly i would suspect the restoration costs associated with this project to be not dissimilar from your average 1961 international scout, 1962 MGA, mid-sixties corvette or 1970 ford bronco. if you are taking them all the way down to the shell or frame and starting over a lot of it is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 no kidding!!! I'd rather have it than a new WRX, any day of the week! I Agree, Absolutely! I Really Like your Car and the Progress Done, Great Restoration Work, Very Well Done. About Rust Proofing it, Also you can use some "Spray-On" Chemicals, I Suggest the TOFF: http://www.toffliners.com/ Because it is a Epoxy Sprayed-on Anti Rust Bed Liner, that in my Country is used for People who wants to Avoid Rust, in Severe Conditions with Great Results, is easy to do and Works very well. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 Hey look, an exhaust for my car! http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k112247034#enlargeimg Wow, engine mounts and new mouldings too: http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r55929129#enlargeimg http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b98511998#enlargeimg This is interesting, but it sucks I need ALL of the assembly not just this: http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n76986468#enlargeimg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 What's the last one where you need the whole assy.? I have a new blower box and some other items. Nice finds !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 What's the last one where you need the whole assy.? Front brake caliper bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 I think you've got more pull with Charlie than I do these days so maybe ask him about one if you didn't already. I don't recall anything like that in our NOS lot. From the pic I thought it was somethnig else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 6, 2009 Author Share Posted June 6, 2009 I think you've got more pull with Charlie than I do these days so maybe ask him about one if you didn't already. I don't recall anything like that in our NOS lot. From the pic I thought it was somethnig else. The front disc brakes were never on US spec cars I just called Charlie a couple days ago too, but ya, unless he has a Japanese (or possibly south-American) spec "sports' model, he won't have the disc brakes. Plus, I already gave him a list of parts i'm looking for, I don't think he needs more, lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Disks - good luck .... same with Charlie.... Charlie - get to work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share Posted June 21, 2009 Sorry again for the lack of updates, been trying to work out several things (Paint, Engine, etc.) that didn't really change the status of the car. HOWEVER, today I went to my uncles house and he helped make some bushings... More pics coming tommorow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 As promised, pics from today of the bushings NOT PICTURED: The Drelin control arm bushings. I need some way of bonding the urethane to the metal for the engine mounts. Any experience with that anyone? Here are some pics of them installed. The front subframe bushing, which was machined from urethane with the wood lath as seen in the previous photo, and some shock top bushings and the black subframe bushing: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsunrides Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Now that's how to solve availability problems. Just make it yourself! What led you to choose Delrin for the control arm bushes instead of urethane? I'm no expert but it would seem the urethane would give a little compliance for a somewhat smoother ride than Delrin, which is pretty solid. Where did you soure the raw materials? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Now that's how to solve availability problems. Just make it yourself! What led you to choose Delrin for the control arm bushes instead of urethane? I'm no expert but it would seem the urethane would give a little compliance for a somewhat smoother ride than Delrin, which is pretty solid. Where did you soure the raw materials? Mark Tom at Kartboy recommended the Delrin, said that it was better for machining than urethane. But I probably should have used the urethane after we tried it, worked better than expected. Got everything on ebay actually. Pretty cheap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Way to go with the hand made bushings! I might have to get ahold of you to make some for my projects... I dont have a wood lathe, only a metal lathe... -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 hmmmm......I may have to do that for my projects. beats the heck out of waiting for SuperPro to get me a set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I might have to get ahold of you to make some for my projects... I didn't do the lathe work, my uncle did, and that took some effort to get him to do Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I just installed a set of those hood pins you were looking at getting. Here they are on my hatch. They are soooo cool and work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Awesome!!! I sooo wish I could use them, but due to the round shape of the front of the hood, I have to go with a regular type of hood pin (probably Sparco, which is what i've seen on other FF-1's) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Tom at Kartboy recommended the Delrin, said that it was better for machining than urethane. But I probably should have used the urethane after we tried it, worked better than expected. When I have had urethane pieces made the secret is to freeze the urethane (in an industrial freezer), this makes it hard enough to machine on a lathe and once it has warmed up returns to its normal softness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Alright, I found an EA71 "fat case" short block, now I need some 4-port 1400 heads! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.