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Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


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I got a little ahead of myself...

 

dash1.jpg

dash2.jpg

dash3.jpg

 

The dash has some dents/dings on it along with the glove box. I think I'm going to have to have it covered with something, like a WRC dash or suede or something.

 

The steering wheel is going to go, its toast. The radio cover thingy is going to be trimmed so it will just be the two knobs and nothing else. The center speaker cover will be replaced with a Tachometer, not sure exactly how I'm going to do that yet.

 

Couple more pics:

 

enginebay1.jpg

batterytray1.jpg

 

Some folks had some questions about what I was doing for the battery... Thats your answer right there :P

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if the steering wheel is going like you said the interior is screaming for one like this...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220684525656&viewitem=#vi-content

 

Something three spoke either black leather or wood rim. Not nessisarily that one but something like it. Would add to the vintage sporty look you have going with the wheels and motor.

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Let me Tell you that...

 

...

dash2.jpg

 

The dash has some dents/dings on it along with the glove box. I think I'm going to have to have it covered with something, ...

 

...if the Glovebox door which have dents, is Metallic and you Want to Keep the Stock Looking, I Kindly Suggest you to Fill the Dent with Body Filler and then it could be Treated just like the Outer Body Parts: Sandpaper, then Primer and Paint.

Also you can make a Wooden custom part to fit the Tachometer where is the Speaker Spot. Painted as the Rest of the Dash it will Look Somehow like Stock.

Kind Regards.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

OK, I made a "simple" list of what needs to be done to the car at this point.

 

If anyone can help with anything on the list, please let me know!

 

 

[b\Restore Gas Tank (unknown cost)

Install Fuel pipe (remove rear suspension to accomplish)

*While rear suspension uninstalled, adjust ride height of suspension arms and put anti-corrosion compound in wheel cylinders (forgot name)

Install Gas Tank (need the soft rubber compound used between tank and car body, unknown composition)

 

Glass/Molding/Doors (can be done AFTER engine/later items, but ready to do most of these now)

-Restore/remove water drops on all glass IE clean up glass (Need tips for glass cleaning)

-Install rear glass, possibly front glass (clean up molding before install)

-Molding for door trim/window trim (~$200 know what to buy now)

-Molding for rear trunk (~$100 don't know which to use)

-Glass Bedding "U" channel for front Vent windows (Unknown cost, not much required)

*install on to window frames when done

-Install window regulator, window frame, with glass simultaneously on to each door

-Rebuild rear side windows for later installation

 

Engine (EA63 dry sleeve new block, EA62 used heads):

-Valve job on heads ~$150

*if using weber manifold, shave heads 2mm each side, possibly requires custom pistons or shaved/dished pistons to run weber manifold due to C/R (+$50-100)

*if using stock manifold with weber 32/36, no modification required (Must sell weber manifold, buy new 32/36 kit)

-Swap camshaft in shortblock (Don't really want to do this myself, don't want to make a mistake)

-Need New distributor (Electronic, ~83? EA81 FWD, ~$150-200)

 

Transmission/Engine mounting/Front Brakes:

-Need to custom build new engine mounts somehow (Unknown cost)

1) Custom gearbox (83 gears, 72 FF1 case) already assembled:

-Custom rear transmission mount (Unknown cost, don't know what to do for this)

-Custom clutch to mount to 83 main shaft (Unknown cost, still not sure what to do)

-Figure out which bell housing to use (possible issue with mounting to EA63 block)

2) Rebuild ORIGINAL transmission (Requires more cleaning time, lots of rebuild time, not too difficult though):

-Check bell housings to see what fits, no other modification required (possible issue with mounting to EA63 block)

*Install front brakes and components (Need to clean/restore brakes)

*Install all engine related components (distributor, manifold, alternator,etc.)

*Connect all components (clutch pedal, throttle, etc.)

Note: All engine/etc. components already purchased, excluding distributor

 

Wiring (Unknown cost, don't know if to replace all or use old wiring)

Fuel Lines/Fuel system (Unknown cost, need all new lines and fuel system components)

Brake Lines (Unknown cost, need new lines throughout car)

 

Install front fenders and other items (corner lights) permanently

 

New custom radiator with fan (Unknown cost)

Custom front bracket to mount radiator and additional lateral support (Horn mounts too)

 

 

Interior:

-Dash needs cloth or leather (or alcantra) cover to cover imperfections (unknown cost)

*Matching upholstery for other interior parts (unknown cost)

-Tachometer (large, still researching size, ~$100)

*Possibly other gauges where old radio slot was (~$150-300)

-Door, trunk, etc. paneling with upholstery (Unknown cost, can be rather inexpensive if done myself, can do this part easily, not concerned about it)

-Roof panel (something simple, it will be one piece that slides in and taped to roof)

-SEATS! Still deciding, probably Corbeau classics or something inexpensive and small (must be 20" or under in width! $500-1500)

-Seat belts, Schroth Rally-4 harnesses (~$300)[/b]

 

 

BTW, I plan on rolling the car out Saturday to take more photos.

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I wasn't sure which camshaft was in the block til I got it.

 

Its not a huge deal to swap it, but I want to make sure the bearings get back in there properly and everything lubricated properly. I've never done that before. The main thing I can't do is swap the camshaft sprocket.

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Turned the car around today, took picks before I did:

 

doorsinstalled2.jpg

doorsinstalled1.jpg

doorsinstalled5.jpg

doorsinstalled4.jpg

doorsinstalled3.jpg

 

Had some WRX pedal covers I used:

 

pedalcovers.jpg

 

I do have a problem with the doors... The passenger side fit PERFECT. Meanwhile, I can't get the driver side to close properly. The post it slams into won't go any farther in, and I think its preventing the door from being 100% closed:

 

doorproblem.jpg

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I have a door on my 1400 DL sedan which is impossible to get right. The front passenger side door either fits badly while opening perfectly or fits well and 'sticks' when you open it... :-\ Very frustrating as all the other doors work and 'sit' like new.

 

Kosta, you must be finding it hard to keep the anticipation in check! The car is coming along great!

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i had a door once that was this way took it ot a body shop and they said the door was bent or the body and that there wasnt enough adjustment in the mechansim to take care of it so the guy had a slide hamer that fit the door side and the body side and he would tap it with the slide hamer till the body was adjusted till the door closed. def took some practice but it worked....

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I got it to fit much, much better, but it will probably still take a bit of adjustment when the door molding and window frames are installed.

 

It turned out the "slot" for the slider wasn't letting the door close enough, so I took out the dremel and made sure it could. Looks much better now, and closes better too.

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Never been a big fan of those, I think a small diameter single tube bumper would look awesome in the shape of the original one, you would just have to find some one to bend it, or do yourself, but it's really up to you and your preference, you are the owner after all :) I have full access to a pipe bender so I just make my own bumpers for my old GL's.

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I don't have access to anything to do custom bumpers, and those are cheap is all, just need new holes drilled.

 

You have done such a nice job on picking everything else out for this project so far, i'm sure what ever you do will look great! I just never really liked them on the V-Dubs, I'm just having a hard time picturing them on the car. Keep up the good work!!!!

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