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Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


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1603 replies to this topic

#1026 Kostamojen

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Posted 12 May 2011 - 10:01 PM

So I split the block tonight to get the camshaft off...

Glad I did, the sealant used on this thing is crap, and there are a TON of metal shavings! I'll get it cleaned out.

Oh, and its SOOO much easier taking apart a brand new block vs. old and rusted :P

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Yesterday I got my new engine mounts... They are actually from Landrovers! They are the PERFECT size for my car and what I'm doing. I'm using these instead of the read urethane blocks I had cause they have metal discs on top and bottom giving extra support to the mounts and how I had to change them because of the wider bellhousing.

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#1027 Kostamojen

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 03:20 PM

Man, this car just doesn't want to cooperate sometimes...

I was going to try and use the original oil pan from the 1100 motor cause its shorter and won't stick down so much like the 1400/1600 oil pans, but it turns out the 1100 pickup tube is smaller in diameter so I'd have to modify one of the 1400/1600 pickup tubes to fit the 1100 oil pan, or use the 1400/1600 oil pan...

Any suggestions?

#1028 moosens

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 03:23 PM

It's still a dry run isn't it? Swap that pan now and be happy about doing it. :)

#1029 Quidam

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 05:14 PM

It's still a dry run isn't it? Swap that pan now and be happy about doing it. :)


I'm not sure, but he would need to use the pickup that goes with the pan...no?

Doug

#1030 Kostamojen

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 05:38 PM

The 1400/1600 pickup doesn't fit with the 1100 pan cause of the height difference. I basically need to take an inch or so off of the 1400 pickup to use the 1100 pan. The 1100 pan would also let me use the factory oil-separator device which could be nice.

The 1400 pan will stick out from under the front of the car and be pretty obvious, so I'm trying not to use it.

#1031 Quidam

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 05:55 PM

Ah, I see. So how much capacity do you loose with the shorter pan?

#1032 Kostamojen

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 08:50 PM

Bout a quart. Not too worried about that though, the 1100 pan is nicely baffled.

#1033 moosens

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 08:06 AM

First I had pick up in there , then changed to pan .... whatever he decides he's still not exactly bound and gagged here. My point is make the decision and get it going and live with it. What really matters here? Apparently its the high slung pan as the low slung would be most un-Califormia like. :) Would be a lot worse here with our roads and occassional raised storm drain covers. (manhole is such a freaky term :lol: )

#1034 Kostamojen

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 06:40 PM

The problem with the 1400 (low) oil pan would be that its going to keep me from running the factory skid plate if I use it. It will be quite noticeable.

Just rebuilt the master cylinder today... The kit I picked up awhile ago turned out to be 100% correct, worked perfect!

Also got the throwout bearing on the transmission... Just waiting for my heads to get back from the shop next week and I can start re-assembling the motor for installation :)

#1035 waimaks

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 04:52 AM

Found this for sale in JPN, thought you might like to see it.

http://page9.auction...tion/k141212285

#1036 Kostamojen

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 01:36 PM

Looks like it went through the Tsunami :-\

#1037 moosens

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 04:02 PM

Nothing compared to the one still sitting up here at ctsuba's place. Sitting is a loose term. More like in a state of constant movement earthward. :lol: Sorry Charlie.

#1038 Kostamojen

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 05:57 PM

I found a welding shop to do the pickup tube for $20, so I'm all set :)

Meanwhile I'm waiting for my cylinder heads to get fixed up at the engine shop, I started working on getting stuff ready...

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I also rebuild the master cylinder and some other brake bits and installed them:

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#1039 Kostamojen

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 05:33 PM

Anyone have any advise on how to route the fuel lies? IE should I run a return line, should I use the factory evap setup, or should I do something simpler?

#1040 Kostamojen

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 06:59 PM

Just got back my modified pickup-tube from Lewis Welding Works (In Roseville). They did an awesome job matching up the pickup tube from the 1400 to the 1100 so I can use the 1100 pan :)

If anyone ever needs anything welded in the Sacramento area, this is the place to do it! They do all sorts of crazy stuff, even those half-length VW busses! Awesome old hot rod chassis in the shop getting worked on too. Good stuff.

#1041 subaru360

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 07:04 PM

Anyone have any advise on how to route the fuel lies? IE should I run a return line, should I use the factory evap setup, or should I do something simpler?


I would put a nice aftermarket electric pump back by the tank, below the fuel level or as low as you can. Then run new steel lines up to the front and put a pressure regulator under the hood. I would just vent the evap to the atmosphere somwhere back by the tank. I usually just run a hose with a loop in it along the filler neck and vent it there as high as possible.

#1042 Kostamojen

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 07:07 PM

Alright, here in lies my confusion with the fuel system...

The service manual doesn't show this exact car for some reason. The sedan model shows only one little evap reservoir, while the wagon shows 2 like this coupe, but it doesn't show the same routing. I have no idea what these even do anyway, so I'm curious what I should do with them.

Also the fuel tank has two tube connections for the evap/whatever. So I obviously have to run two lines to it somehow. I thought maybe use one as a return line?

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Also, the white double-tube plastic thing in the fuel cap area appears to be missing parts! When I cleaned it up, all it had was a spring inside but nothing holding it down???

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I did manage to route the line from the tank to the fuel pump and put a temporary break-in filter there. Everything look fine to you guys?

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#1043 Kostamojen

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 07:11 PM

I would put a nice aftermarket electric pump back by the tank, below the fuel level or as low as you can. Then run new steel lines up to the front and put a pressure regulator under the hood. I would just vent the evap to the atmosphere somwhere back by the tank. I usually just run a hose with a loop in it along the filler neck and vent it there as high as possible.

Sadly, there isn't any room to mount my pump down low. I mounted it near the stock location on the firewall as you can see in that last pic.

Everyone says don't run a fuel pressure regulator with a weber, and especially not with the fuel pump I bought (specially made low-pressure pump for Webers). But I'm not sure if I should run a return line...

For the Evap, where do you vent it to the atmosphere at? I presume the little white dohicky on the fuel cap area is the vent on this car??? Should there be some kind of filter or something there to keep fuel from squirting out all over my nice paint job?

#1044 maudsland

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 07:23 AM

Those little cannisters basically seperate any fuel out of the vapours and returns the fuel back to the tank and vent the air to that fitting in the filler cap. As for the return line i wouldnt bother just plum any excess fuel to the inlet side of the filter before the pump, and as for the pump get one that will lift the fuel from the tank. The original pump only suplied the fuel needed when it built up the pressure it stopped so no return was needed, pumps that run all the time need a return line. I have the same pump fitted to my lotus 7 to supply fuel to the surge tank, it runs all the time so return excess fuel to the inlet side of the filer, there are filter which have 2 inlet and one outlet, try one of those
Cheers Thierry

Edited by maudsland, 25 May 2011 - 07:28 AM.


#1045 Kostamojen

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 11:37 PM

Alright, I'm not quite certain what you are getting at, so I made a couple drawings to show the situation...

I'm just not certain what to do, I don't want another engine fire thats for sure.

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#1046 maudsland

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 02:04 AM

Ok i feel there was a ball in there and the spring would of pushed the ball against the side to seal off and when the motor is running there would be slight vacum to vent the cannisters so the fumes heads to the carby and into the engine. Todays cars that hose would go to the charcol cannister then into the induction system
Cheers Thierry

#1047 Datsunrides

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 06:14 PM

To really simplify it, run the supply line direct to the carb. If there is any doubt of the pressure the fuel pump you end up using, install a regulator. Most carbs do not require any more than 2-3 psi. I would remove all the return plumbing and evap cans and cap off the fittings at the tank. Keep the filler vent. The key to this is using a vented gas cap, or the tank will build pressure untill something gives. Not a good thing. If your cap is not vented, or you can't find one, simply drill a small hole (1/16th or so) in the highest part of the cap and your set. Keep up the nice work! :banana:

Mark

#1048 Kostamojen

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Posted 28 May 2011 - 05:17 PM

Well, I did kind of an in-between job... basically the 3rd option I showed.

One like to the carb with the pump/filter of course, no return.
One vent line to one canister back to that little off-white dual thingy by the cap, but I put a screen on it and blocked off the 2nd part of the tube.
And blocked off the 2nd vent tube on the tank.

Think it will work?

#1049 Datsunrides

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 12:13 AM

I see no reason it won't.

Mark

#1050 Subafreak

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 12:21 PM

Seems like a complex set up for the vintage of the car. Im pretty
sure on my 74 it just has one hose that comes out of the top of the tank
and runs into the air cleaner housing to draw the fumes in. I don't think there
is any canisters or anything.




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