Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
High Idle Controller?
Posted 10 December 2003 - 10:10 AM
Reccomendations? and no, removing crap not an option :moon:
Posted 10 December 2003 - 12:38 PM
Whelen 4 strobe Mini-Edge Bar with rear halogen flashers
Whelen 90 Watt Strobe Power Supply
Front Hideaway Strobes in Corner Lights
Front Par 36 Grill Strobes
Wig-Wag Halogen lamps in headlights
Whelen Dual Halogen Dashmiser in rear window
Whelen Air horn/PA Unit with 100 Watt Speaker
Touchtronics 6 switch membrane control panel
Icom FT-2720 Dual band VHF-UHF Transceiver
Maxrad Dual band VHF-UHF Antenna
Motorola HT-1000 MTVA Unit with 25w amp
Antenna Specialists UHF antenna
Relm MS 2000 Mobile Scanner and antenna
Nokia CARK 133 Hands Free Unit
60 watt Halogen Driving Lights
150watt Halogen Driving Lights
Whistler 3300 Remote Mount Radar/Laser/Safety Alert Detector
Alpine 4x40watt CD FM Radio
Priority Start Pro Series Battery Protector
On Board Automatic Battery Charger
150amp Aftermarket Alternator
Remote Starter/Light Control
Posted 10 December 2003 - 03:40 PM
Posted 10 December 2003 - 03:55 PM
You could check a Jeep website or a 4WD mag.
We used to use a hand throttle cabe for the same thing when I was a kid.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 04:00 PM
And it would seem that the AC system would have a switch that would increase idle a bit when AC is on. The AC one would probably only give you a couple of hundred RPM increase, but that might help if you ran a switch and a wire to that.
All an idle control is is a solenoid and a switch.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 04:13 PM
What battery do you have, is the alternator stock? Has it ever been replaced?
I wouldn't recommend messing with idle stuff like that. Unless this is for when you're doing work outside the vehicle and need the lights....and if that's the case, just stick a small something between the throttle stop screw throttle linkage.
Really, you should have an optima yellow top if you don't.....and possibly two for all that stuff. Also, your alternator probably could used to be replaced if it's still original. There's really not much an option for HO alternators that bolt in easily. I have one that a guy in Dallas sells. It's meant for the newer subarus. To fit it on mine I had to extend the main power leads and re-wire the other leads to a new plug.
As for the underdriving option. It is an option, and I'm doing it. You want to underdrive the alternator pulley. The alternator pulley is a driven pulley, not a driving pulley. Think of a bicycle....when you put the bike in the smaller gear in the back.....you go faster.....decreasing the size of the alternator pulley does exactly the same thing.
Go Fast Bits out of Australia are the only company I was able to find that makes an underdriven alternator pulley. I wanted just the alternator pulley and not anything else, since I'm going to be going back to stock sized aluminum crank pulley. To do that I contacted GFB directly and they were able to help me purchase just the alternator pulley through autospeed. I'm still waiting on the pulley since the anodized red pullies were out of stock.
With the GFB underdriven alternator pulley, you'll get an increase in rpm of roughly 100 rpm....that's it.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 04:37 PM
Would that do the trick? Should I think about getting the alternator replaced?
The draw for the system when it is on draws 26.8amps, give or take a few. That is with all the lights running, the siren on, radios transmitting, and flashers flashing.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 04:44 PM
I liked the idea of the overdriven alternator pulley.
It does seem that you could prettey easily make something to increase the idle.
Years ago I saw cop cars in Augusta Maine that were subies. They must have solved the problem then.
Somebody must still use subies for police work.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 04:50 PM
How many miles are on the car? Is the alternator original?
I'd highly recommend you replace the battery with a yellow top. When I was going to school in PA, I killed my battery.....got a normal battery.....it worked....however stereo never sounded as good, and I had light dimming or other weird issues.....killed that battery in a year......said screw it, bought the yellow top, and was quite amazed at how everything just seemed to 'brighten up'
The optima yellow top is a starting/deep cylce battery. It is not a normal deep cylce and will be more then enough to start your car. Like I said, I lived in PA for 4 years while going to college and even during the coldest winters the optima started the car fine. The only time I'd say the car started slowly was when I leave the car sit for 2-4 weeks and then started it up...this was during winter. The car still started fine, just slower then it normally did....no biggy....
Go with the battery first....If you have high miles, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get a remaned alternator as well. Both of those things should help you out a lot.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 05:28 PM
Reccomendations? Thanks guys you are really a wealth of info, just wish I was more useful once in a while!
Posted 10 December 2003 - 06:08 PM
27 amps doesn't sound like too much, where are you measuring from the alt to the batt? Your site mentions a 150 amp alternator, I would think that would be quite a bit. Is your wiring beefed up enough? You'd need some pretty heavy gauge stuff to the batt. and then maybe some fairly heavy gauge stuff to some distribution points for the more power hungry accesories.
Better batt is not a bad idea either.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 06:24 PM
I would also think about a high idle solenoid like the old carbureted cars had. Put a switch on the dash and interlock it with park or neutral. Rig it up so it presses on the throttle.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 07:35 PM
As far as how I measured the amount of amperage, I used an ammeter, (measures the amount of electrical current flowing through a given circut, given in amps).
I am running 4ga marine cable from the battery to a MAXI fuse block (30amp fast blow fuse) and then it goes from that block to two (2) 10ga wires feeding a fuse panel which powers the accessories.
Posted 10 December 2003 - 10:32 PM
Posted 11 December 2003 - 06:09 PM
I don't recall exact amount....I keep forgetting if it was 300 or 400......think 300.....
It uses the new subaru alternator style casing instead of the old one. Difference is the pos output lead is further towards the passenger side, which is why I had to extend the leads.
Here's the alternator's birth certificate.
in these pics you can see old vs new
Posted 11 December 2003 - 11:40 PM
Also, is it hard to replace an alternator myself? Is it a bolt on bolt off job? Or should I see if I can get a mechanic install one I buy for me.
Posted 11 December 2003 - 11:53 PM
Be careful to not use any product like Armour All since it contains chemicals that will harm the oxygen sensor if these substances are breathed into the engine. Silicone is one of the substances that even in extremely small quantities destroy an oxygen sensor.
I have replaced several oxygen sensors that mysteriously failed not long after an engine detailing.
Posted 12 December 2003 - 09:24 AM
I have the yellow top battery. I forget the actual part #, but it's the one with dual post terminals.
no I don't use armoral or anything like that. This picture just happened to be after I just wiped the engine down with wet rag. I have used some stuff in the past, but it's silicone free.
I normally don't like to put anything on because then dirt sticks to it, and it's a slimey mess.....
Posted 12 December 2003 - 01:13 PM
Battery Model: D34/78-950
Part Number: 8014-021
Nominal Voltage: 12 volts
Description: High power, sealed, lead acid deep cycle battery.
Plate Design: High purity lead-tin alloy. Wound cell configuration using utilizing proprietary SPIRALCELL technology.
Electrolyte: Sulfuric acid, H2SO4. Specific gravity: 1.342
Color: Case: Light Gray
Cover: "Optima" Yellow
Group Size: BCI: 34
Length: 10" 254 mm
Width: 6.8" 172.2 mm
Height: 7.8" 198.1 mm(height at the top of the terminals)
Minimum Weight: 43.8lb. 19.89kg
Terminal Configuration: SAE / BCI automotive and GM style side terminal (3/8" - 16 UNC - 2B, threaded nut).
Open Circuit Voltage (full charged): 13.2 volts
Internal resistance (fully charged): .0028 ohms
Capacity: 65 Ah (C/20)52 Ah (C/2)
Reserve Capacity: BCI: 124 minutes
(25 amp discharge, 80o F (26.7o C), to 10.5 volts cut-off)
CCA (BCI 0o F): 750 amps
MCA (BCI 32 o F): 950 amps
Battery Power (C/2) 8.4 kW
Battery Energy (C/2) 624 Wh
Cycle Life - deep cycle (BCI): ~ 350 cycles
J240 Life Cycle (BCI): 10,000 - 12,000 cycles
EV, C/2 discharge to 10.5 volts, cycle to 80% retained capacity: > 220 cycles
The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life:
(Always use a voltage regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.)
These batteries are designed for cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.
Recommended charging information:
Alternator 13.8 to 15.0 volts
Battery charger 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 20 amps maximum
Float charge 13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum
Rapid Recharge (Constant voltage charger) Maimum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125F. Charge until current drops below 1 amp.
Cyclic or series string applications 14.7 volts, temperature <125F, no current limits. When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.
Posted 13 December 2003 - 12:47 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users