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Back up Light Switch

 

Where?

 

1996 Legacy OBW 2.2 5-sp

 

Mine is apparently out. The fuse is fine. Would like to test/replace it if I can get to the little bugger. Haynes has a photo of it that is ridiculously close up with no point of reference. No help. (Really glad I didn't take their advice and drain the coolant and remove the manifold in order to change the knock sensor. Soooooo much easier to just unhook a wire and ratchet out a bolt - then reverse) ;)

 

Also, is it necessary to "Raise auto and place securely on jackstands" or can I crawl underneath and get to it?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Hawk

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Originally posted by hawksoob

Back up Light Switch

 

Where?

 

1996 Legacy OBW 2.2 5-sp

 

Mine is apparently out. The fuse is fine. Would like to test/replace it if I can get to the little bugger. Haynes has a photo of it that is ridiculously close up with no point of reference. No help. (Really glad I didn't take their advice and drain the coolant and remove the manifold in order to change the knock sensor. Soooooo much easier to just unhook a wire and ratchet out a bolt - then reverse) ;)

 

Also, is it necessary to "Raise auto and place securely on jackstands" or can I crawl underneath and get to it?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Hawk

 

To do this type of work I usually park one side on top of a curb or median (the higher, the better) which will then give me enough clearance to crawl under. I am slim so this is not too hard to do. No jacks, no stands and no danger.

 

The reverse switch sticks out of the left side of the transmission case, it should be the only electrical item on the 5MT. Park the car on a curb, leave it in reverse with the key in the "on" position, and then do a continuity test on the switch.

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I just did this job on my 91 legacy sw with

a 5 MT.

 

There are two switches on the side of the

gearbox. Front one is for reverse, rear

for neutral sensor.

 

To test: remove the connector at

switch and jumper the two wire lead --

your reverse lights should go on. That

tells you it is the switch. Otherwise,

you have another problem

 

To fix: When you get the switch out

you will notice that it has a worn

nylon contact rod. Reconnect the

switch to the wire lead and push

on the rod to verify that the internals

of the switch are working (note: I think,

for some reason, the switch body needs

to be grounded for this to work)

Now to the rod -- if you can arrange

for the switch to seat 180 degrees

around from its original position, the

contact will hit the non-worn part

of the rod and function will be restored.

This can be arranged by using an

thinner sealing washer or by shaving

the old washer with a file and sandpaper.

Look at the threads on the switch body

to estimate how much has to be removed

to account for 1/2 of the thread pitch.

 

One last thing: if you mark the switch

body with a dab of paint before you take

it out, it will be easier to see if it seats

180 degrees further when you re-install.

 

My reverse lights are now working

fine.

 

YOu could always buy a new switch, but

it looks like a dealer only part

and I'll bet it is quite expensive.

It fails when it still has lots of life left

just because of the small worn spot

on the nylon rod.

 

Chris

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Thanks muchos for the response. That helps a lot. I have seen the backup light switch replacements on Autozone's website for about $28. Hope soon to have an opp I'll raise the sucker up and check it out. Otherwise, I just have to keep leaning out the window yelling, "HEY YOU! I'm backing up!!!"

 

Many appreciations.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I was all ready to bust a knuckle or two, but it looks like it's not necessary. The other day, my girlfriend was driving my car while I was behind in a moving van and I noticed that the upper right hand brake light was out. I happened to have a spare bulb and I changed it. Later that evening, I noticed, while backing up, the reverse light came on. Hmmmmm ... maybe the other busted bulb cut the reverse light circuit.

 

Strange.

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