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midengined RWD BRAT???


s'ko
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So I took some pics of the EJ22T that I picked up this weekend and I noticed that where it was sitting in the bed of the BRAT was exactly where it needs to be to make it a midengine RWD BRAT.

 

The engine was sitting in the jump seat frame and there was about 8 inches from the t-belts to the back of the cab.

 

so if you cut out the back of the brat and make a subframe to hold the engine and tranny. You move the gas tank to the front to balance things out a bit. If you make a cage to protect the gas tank then you can make some custom suspension for the front. So this could either be a street BRAT or maybe a pre-runner.

PICT0011.jpg?t=1194368045

PICT0006.jpg?t=1194368081

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Like, you guyz are So too late!

 

http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/1870/Citroen-2CV-Sahara.html

 

And it was the Frogs :lol:

 

yea dad had an 2cv only single engine 1 lol. its so fun to drive. it was an 1988 model. so cheap 2 run and about the only tools ya needed was the wheel brace and an srew driver and you could almost take any pannel of it haha :lol:

:burnout:

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I would think that the shift linkage would be somewhat of a challenge. You'd have to set something up like a Porsche 944 (Long rods and hangers). I’m not really sure how you’re going to get around the motor to attach everything to the transmission. It should be interesting. Let us know how it goes and good luck to ya.

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servos,with paddle shifters.:grin:

 

I would think that the shift linkage would be somewhat of a challenge. You'd have to set something up like a Porsche 944 (Long rods and hangers). I’m not really sure how you’re going to get around the motor to attach everything to the transmission. It should be interesting. Let us know how it goes and good luck to ya.
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Not going to be doing this project for a long time.

 

I like the way my BRAT is running now and the EJ22t is slated to go into the RX.

 

I might do this later on in life if I can either find a 1st gen BRAT or I the itch to do this to the EJ18 BRAT.

 

BW

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  • 9 months later...

thought i would give this a bump.

 

I am not any closer to getting this projected started and probably will not be for a few years, but......

I am trying to work out some of the kinks and get the info while it's avaliable from some of the finest problems-solvers in the world.

:clap: yeah for USMB.

 

Ok so here is what I have thought of so far. Engine would be mounted into a hole cut into the bed of the BRAT. The torsion bar suspension set up would be removed and a new engine/tranny crossmember would be installed. Since I am removing the rear suspension mounts, it might be possible to use an EJ engine crossmember and then use EJ front control a arms. That would make it possible for 5 lug stuff in the rear. Heck I can even get psycho and do 4 wheel steering. :slobber:

 

Shifting would have to be handled by some sort of cable set up. That would get it around the engine. It would basically consists of 4 cables attached to the end of the shifter. The shifter rod basically moves in 4 directions. forward, backwards and left rotation and right rotation. If you shift into 1st gear the rod rotates left and pulls out. On the shift lever side, the cable would be connected under the pivot. On the tranny, the cables would connected to a collar that is connected to the shifter rod. This should allow for the same movement types you would get w/the shift lever. 1st gear would pull the Left cable and then pull the forward cable.

These would need to be hooked up to the collar so that this motion would translate into proper shifting movement. There obvious needs to be fine tuning in this system before it's implemented on the road.

 

Here is a relatively new idea that I have been kicking around. AWD midengine BRAT.

 

So, if the back wheels are powered by the front stub axles, could a divorced T-case be put in to put power to a front diff? It would basically go from the rear output to the t-case and then go back forward. The rear output of the t-case would not be used.

tcase2.jpg

I don't want to lift the BRAT and I also don't want that drive shaft to get caught up on a speed bump so I thought about rotating the t-case 90degrees, but it might get in the way of the suspension and the axle powering the rear wheel. Rotate it any more and the driveshaft would go into the cabin and be at a very high unusable angle (not to mention dangerous) Any ideas on how to get this to work? Also for those who have a divorced t-case how long does it measure? and how tall is it.

 

Like I said in the beginnig of the post, this is more of a theoretical, academic discussion than post about building this beast.

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How about a bit of inspiration from the VW crowd??

http://www.durocco.com/story%20photos/page1.html

Twin engined Scirocco... 16v up front, 16v in the back, shifters linked... :headbang:

 

A single engined Scirocco is enough of a headache to work on. :banghead:

 

I don't want to even think about what that thing would be like. :rolleyes:

 

I bet it goes like wee though. :grin:

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you have to look at the scirrocco this way.... you are twice as likely to make it home with 2 engines!

 

 

 

I was just looking at a twin engine tiburon with 2 4g63s (eclipse turbo motors)

 

as interesting as twin engined scirroccos and tiburons are, let's keep to the point of the OP.

 

That being a MIDENGINED RWD/or AWD BRAT

 

BTW, two ea81s at 160 HP total vs. 1 EJ20 = 230 HP.

Even 2 EJ22s at 280 HP total vs. 1 STi EJ25 = 300 HP.

Now 2 EJ20s at 460 HP total that might be interesting. But then again I have a friend w/an EJ20 20G that has 310 WHP. so it's still faster and twice the weight and complexity.

 

Complexity is not worth the HP gains.

 

Thanks

 

BW

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I think your best bet would be to get an adapter made that uses some gear to the the rear output of the tranny to the side of the engine (look at AWD porsches) and then use an flipped rear diff at the front.

 

you will need to use a 2 piece driveshaft and a carrier bearing somewhere after the engine and maybe even a cutout in the oil pan to clear the driveshaft, but it should be doable.

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  • 3 months later...
Easier to just flip the differential as alot of modern engines can no longer run backwards.

 

 

nipper

 

the diff in a subaru trans cannot be flipped. even with a custom ring/pinion. just no room for it.

 

I also don't think the engine could be made to run backwards without a ton of work. cams reground, oil/water pumps redesigned. ECU reprogrammed.

 

 

I think your best bet for 4WD, is a VW-subaru adapter plate, with a Synchro vanagon 4WD drivetrain in there. would be rear engined...but close.

 

I think running a driveshaft under the suspension components would be a nightmare. really wouldn't be much room.

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