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EA82 reseal


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9 replies to this topic

#1 CrankyAl

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 02:27 AM

Hi Folks, I am new to posting on this forum but I have been lurking in the
background for a few monthes. I acquired a 1990 Loyal from a friend. Engine
has a blown head gasket plus needs compleat reseal plus water pump, oil
pump, new timing belts, etc. Question: I have read many posts saying go
with the felpro pt head gasket, so are the rest of the gaskets in the felpro
line ok for the entire engine reseal? I am looking for the proper set to do the
job proper. also help on the oil and water pumps would be helpful. Are
aftermarket as good as oem? thanks in advance
Allan

#2 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 03:15 AM

Most people say go with the felpro head gaskets and then to the Subaru Dealer for the rest, including water pump and oil pump. The oil pump is kinda spendy, you might be abel to just reseal it. The "mickey mouse" gaskets, o-ring, and shaft seal.

That's the best way to go, but if you're on a budget, fel-pro gaskets aren't bad. I've used Beck-Arnley (Spelling?).

#3 grossgary

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 05:20 AM

Fel Pro perma torques for the headgaskets and no need to retorque the heads (PITA so you want to avoid that). Try and source a Fel Pro valve cover gasket set that includes the grommets, cheapest way to go.

What you need from Subaru is:
Thermostat, PCV valve, intake manifold gaskets

Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets are much nicer than most after markets i've seen as well but they do not leak very easily either so make your choice accordingly, either seem to work fine, but i get Subaru.

Everything else is fine to get aftermarket. Get one of the ebay timing belt kits that has all the timing pulley tensioners as well.

Make sure you get a cam seal kit, not just cam seals, the kit has the oring that resides behind the cam cap as well which you will want to replace.

You will also need two cam carrier o-rings that go in the bottom corner of the cam between the cam and the head. they are a metal reinforced oring only available from subaru or www.thepartsbin.com. there are very few companies that carry that part, thepartsbin is one of them.

should be fine to just reseal the oil pump, not buy a new one.

#4 daeron

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 05:24 AM

the best and simplest advice I have heard, in a nutshell.

PT head gaskets, OEM brand intake manifold gaskets and cam case O rings (possibly called cam arrier o-rings) metal reinforced, both OEM brands are available from www.thepartsbin.com. Then buy an el-cheapo "headgasket set" or "gasket set" on ebay or from your local parts store (apparently available for around 30 bucks) to get all the other little odds and ends.

One piece of advice is to take any cork gaskets that will see oil and coat them with a thin layer of RTV type goop, then let them set up before installing them.. "rubberizing" the gasket and helping it last longer. This should only be done in certain cases, though, so use discretion (tip of the hat to GD, the champion of this trick.)

It is not a major job, this engine could be ALOT more difficult to work on (although it has its quirks...) www.ch601.org/engines.htm has a partial FSM that you can download that covers the engine mechanical, SPFI fuel injection, cooling system, and some electrical IIRC. That helps alot.

Good luck, and don't forget to check out the USRM For some pre-job reading to familiarize yourself some more with the procedures.

#5 CrankyAl

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 01:34 PM

Thanks for the help guys, I have rebuilt fords,chevy.dodge, and many vw's,several motorcycles but this is my first subaru. They seem to have several unique problems, especially leaking .(jeep) !! oh, excuse me jeeps don't leak oil they mark their territory. I was wondering if the Ishino gasket sets are any good, but I would still use the felpro headgasket. Any input on the Ishino parts?
Also several parts houses carry the same product for the same prices. I live on the west coast and was looking at the autopartswarehouse for my parts. Anyone out there have any knowledge about these folks? Thanks for your help.
Allan

#6 grossgary

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 02:32 PM

the other gaskets (besides headgaskets and intake manifolds) are benign in nature, they very rarely cause problems so it doesn't really matter. the thermostat and water pump gaskets tend to be thinner and cheesier than the Subaru OEM gaskets looking, but they never leak if they're installed properly.

just be sure to take note of how/where everything goes together once you get into it, it's not that complicated really. try to keep the rocker arms and HLA's oriented in the same bores/spots when reassembling. also, be sure to precisely note the distributor orientation relative to the cam pulley on the front of the drivers side cam carrier (cam tower). everything else is basically remove stuff and put it back together where you found it!

#7 CrankyAl

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 06:12 PM

One question I didn't ask outright. Are the seals, meaning, main seals front and rear any good in these gasket sets? Don't want to have to change these very often!

#8 grossgary

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 09:06 PM

i would have said yes before this year. i used a Fel-Pro front crank seal on an EA82 earlier this year and the seal would not seat. it definitely was not me, it just would not seat in place at all. i worked at it for awhile and finally got it in place but it ended up leaking badly. got a Subaru seal next time and it fit perfect, went right in like they always do with no nonsense like the Fel-Pro gasket. that's the only time i've ever seen that happen though, if a seal doesn't seem like it wants to fit probably best to just get another, don't keep working at it like i did.

be very careful with the rear main seal. on this board and another that i moderate i've seen a few instances of experienced soob people installing a rear main and having it leak shortly after starting to drive the vehicle. very bizarre how many i've seen leak.

also - you asked about the rear, you do realize that EA82's are very easy to work on without pulling the motor. for a strictly head gasket job, its far quicker to leave the engine in on an EA82. particularly with air tools.

#9 CrankyAl

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Posted 15 November 2007 - 02:46 AM

Well the engine is out of the vehicle. I wanted to install a new clutch, throwout bearing and pilot bearing or bushing, whichever. I will look at the rear seal and if it is already leaking I will replace it if it isn't leaking maybe I will leave it alone.
thanks for all the feedback.... much appreciated

#10 grossgary

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Posted 15 November 2007 - 07:57 AM

don't forget to replace the clutch throw out bearing clips too, get news one. i've seen them break and be completely missing even on newer 90's subaru's. they do get brittle and age.




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